CWLONGSHOT

GOOD JOB!!! I LOVE all the time you put into those leafs!!! EXCELLENT WORK!!! Nice write up as well!!! Your Jeep looks GREAT!!!! CW

EASY!!!! I stole one form one of the XJ's I chopped up!! NICE mod for those HOT summer trail rides!!! Ran mine thru the fact thurmostat as wall as a switch to turn it on as required. CW

NEW BOLTS!!! The control arms and leaf spring bolts. You can safely reuse the existing ones...but what if they break or get the threads mangled?? If you have a good hardware store close buy I wouldnt worry... If not, just go buy new ones and install them along with the kit. You'll be glad you did!! Keep the stockers as back up out on the trail. Also, I assume you have the equiptment to weld? Your gonna need it for the rear spring perches. This kit converts you to SOA. CW

Got a spare, known good coil?? I am also assuming there where no issues BEFORE this swap? CW

You could run your stock legnth CA's. Be that either the actual stock arm or any one of the numerous aftermarket choices out there. I am running a 4.5" coil with 2" spacers on top of that and using a .25" longer R.E. upper CA. My caster settings are on the plus side of the fact spec. CW

I watched a buddie weld a bumper bracket to a bumper on a old Ford I had. Wen he finished one side, he told me to roll it over. So I did... a bit before my brain could tell my hands that metal was hot... :oops: :nuts: My skin pulled off just like a hamburger on the grill that gets turned over to quickly!!! NOTHING hurts like a bad burn..... CW

Remove and clean battery connections. Also check condition of battery cables. I had simular problem a couple years back on a XJ. Turned out the batt cables and the connections at the battery that where bad. When I skinned back the insulation it was BLACK!!! One of the things I want to do is a complete new set of cables for my MJ. I am going to custom make the cables out of some very fine stranded high quality, 2/0 cable I aquired. :brows: I am also switching to all cable ends with a marine style battery connector. CW

Yes it does..Is it needed..not really, but thats a topic for another board!! Technically, MJ's made before 1991 have different track bars then TJ's. But not so different that they will not work. I used a brandy new 1999 TJ track bar on mt MJ for almost a year before upgrading and lifting it. CW

They are not even on in these pictures!! Really, they're not turned on!! There IS a second LED light in each bulb for the blue glow, but they are not on in these pics. I got them off EBAY. Something fancy super polished reflectors or some such thing. the bulbs are blue..brite blue. Frankly I cannot wait till they blow I want the Sylvania ultra stars again. You are correct, they are H4 bulb. These lights are plenty brite with out blinding oncoming drivers. there is no "brite spot" seen while driving. Just a nice even flood of light all across the road. With a very distinct line where they stop across the top. CW

Its kinda a gag... I welded a Clevis pin to the back of the receiver so I can remove and replace them as I see fit... They also swing and undulate to and frow rather nicely!! :roll: ;) Thats funny stuff, right there...I don't care who you are!!! CW

You KNOW it!!! Here is some updated pics... CW

The ECTED is only avalible with the STD 30 spline. So Thats what I was limited to. There is really NO GOOD reason to have alloy shafts in this rig. I certainly don't need the extra stregnth aforded by them, with what I do with this rig. Accept factory std shafts where the SAME PRICE as what I paid for the alloys!! My good fortune and its a UPGRADE to boot!!! I COULD have just purchased one shaft as only one side is actually leaking...but that just wouldn't be right... :roll: :roll: CW

I called AUBURN today.... Aparently some units came off the assembly line earlier this week and one was bench tested for me. It will be shipped today or at the latest Monday. I should see it mid week and install next Saturday. I also found a problem....My drivers side rear axle seal is leaking! I spoke to my mechanic and he told me he hoped that wouldn't happen... Apparently, the seal surfaces on the axle shafts where not in too good shape. When he put them in. He put them on the lathe and did his best to clean them up before the install. He dosen't think he will be able to do anything about the leak. SO.... :brows: its time to UPGRADE!!! I have a set of Superior alloy axle shafts coming as well!!! Not too bad of a price either, $269! More as it happens.. CW

SPOT ON!! I agree 100% The ECTED is a nice unit and I do like it. (Once it get it to work) I have one in my TJ and LOVE it. But don't really feel its necessary if you only on the street. The TRU-TRAC is a nice agressive LS. Origionally designed for the front axle applications. It is also an excerllent choice for your rear axle on the street. Only really ever defeated if you lift a tire and thats not too likely on the street. CW

They are on!! I tried to clean....to freakin cold!!! CW

LOOKS GREAT!!! :cheers: Keep going!!! CW

FYI, measuring from the center of the hub, eliminates tire size as an issue in height. The measurement is pure lift when compaired to known numbers of stock MJ's. I seconde it...Nothing personal BUT..... :needpics: CW

Here is a shot I just took of my MJ showing the lower rear edge where you will have contact. Again, fitting 33's will work with your lift. ESP if you correctly bumpstop it. BUT THIS IS DIFFERENT. This is steering, because of the amount they will protrude. With out some serious cutting they will hit hard in this area. Remember, I am TRIMMED already and my caster is set to fact spec. Good luck, CW

Dude no offence, but this question and answer thing only works if you provide all your conserns and conditions. :eek: :D I will agree with Dirty, the MT/R's have MUCH better side walls. They won't wear as long and should be rotated RELIGIOUSLY. But are much better suited to handle the tough sidewall challanges of what ever you may find. These too are only a All Terrain tread. Albeit a agressive one. MT/R stands for Max Traction Reinforced (sidewall) CW

The big problem is not the height, its the width!! They are going to hit hard at the lower rear edge of your front wheel wells. That rims BS/offsett combined with the 10 wide rim is whats going to kill you. BTW, I couldn't run those with my lift and trimming. :eek: I am at almost 7" of lift up front. Its the Rims BS coupled with the 10" width. If it where on an 8inch rim would likely be OK, but at 10" your sticking out mighty far!! I run a 33X10.5 on a 7" rim W/3.75" BS and have 2-3" of clearance. I had a set of 33X12.5's on those rims (Only the 8" versions) and they hit so hard that I couldn't drive it on the street. That was before I trimmed, but I still think the 10 with is going to be the killer. Maybe the guy selling will allow you to TRY before you BUY??? The deal is OK, if you like the tire and wheel. Just last night, I picked up a set of 5 AR 15X8 alum rims (3.75" BS)with 5 BFG AT's for $500. The tires where advertised to have 9000 miles on them with a brand new spare. Well the spare was brand new but the tires had about 20% tread wear. Still a great deal with PLENTY of tread left. just not what was abvertised. So beware. CW

BUMMER!!! I have a 29 spline 8.25 from a XJ with a LS and 3:55 gears sitting in the garage....Just waiting for another project.... :brows: :brows: :brows: CW

I found a set of BFG AT's for the MJ last week. They are 33 X 10.5 X 15's 5 in total, all on alum AR rims. Spare is brandy new, never on the road. Others about 20 - 25% worn. Rims have never been cleaned, so they need a good amount of elbow grease to get them back to new condition. There is nothing wrong with the MT's I have on there now. Just prefer the AT for my purposes. The MT's will get stored for another day. Here is the brandy new spare: Here is the worst of the remaining 4: Here is a detail shot of how dirty they are!! :cry: This is just part of my ongoing "project". I'll be adding the Drop Brackets with the warmwer weather and these tires with those drops should make for a nice smooooth ride!! :brows: CW

My suggestion of the BFG AT's was because of your first post on how you avoid mud. There only down fall is mud..... :roll: If you wanna play in the Mud, I agree with Pete, get the BFG MT's!! Trxus MT's are a very good TRAIL tire. But know they wear faster than the BFG and down right SUCK once the get to about 2/3 worn on the street. CW

Just read Eagles signature. THATS why! ;) :D Shock mounts are SUPER easy to make for the axle end!!! In the parts store, go to the "HELP" section and buy a set of shock studs. Cut an appropriate sized piece of channel steel. Drill the appropriate sized hole. Mount the stud. Wend to axle tube in correct position for your application. As for the ORIGIONAL question here, I agree completely with EAGLES assesment. Clean the stud really good. Grind down to allow room for the weld bead and weld a new stud to your existing one. grind ir round and drive on. :) OR, completely remove and weld in a complete new stud like what Eagle has. Good luck, CW

They only flat spot temporarily. After a couple miles ton the road they are round again. For tread lift your looking at a 25 - 30,000 mile tire on road. I would recomend BFG AT's. IMHO, The best tire for what you need. LONG wearing, 60,000 PLUS excellent road traction, in ALL conditions. VERY good light offroad. EXACTLY what you are describing!!! You don't need new, either!!! I have bought no less than three sets recently USED for very good prices...As a matter of fact, I am going tonight to but another set of 33X10.5X15's AT's for my MJ!!! Good luck, CW