CWLONGSHOT

I bought them directly from my local auto parts supplier. MOOG was the brand. If memory serves there is two different sizes.... If yours cannot find them, you might consider finding another supplier, he is not looking to well..... CW

I don't have any blow by so I am OK in that reguard. I used wood as it was only a test...didnt do anything I could notice..... As for the vents, I COMPLETELY agree!!! CW

Just the trunion.. If the caps are on it and your hitting it squarely, like when seating it in the axle. Have a ball, swing away. I am saying, just don't strike the bearing surfaces of a new trunion with out the caps on to protect the bearing surfaces. CW

If nothing else is changed, sans the SOA. No, why would you think it would? Its holding the same weight, nothing changes accept the side of the spring that bolts to the axle tube. Now, spring wrap, THAT can and likely will change as now the torque of the engine has better leverage and can cause other problems. Mostly because we do SOA's with tired orig springs. CW

BTW, 210 IS CORRECT... 160 degree T stat is not the best idea either...180 is really as lo as you should run in a 4 liter, IMHO. Also, be sure you get out all the air in the system. NOT doing so can cause it to overheat. I added a couple 3/4" spacers to the rear of my hood hinges. In an effort to allow hot air to escape. Didnt notice any difference. CW

This is true. A XJ shackle is 3.25" - 3.5" eye to eye while a MJ is 4.5" - 4.75" eye to eye. So its closer to a 3/4 inch total drop.... CW

I thought I had some cooling problems when I had idiot lights...... I swapped in some factory gages and now see the temps will climb a bit but not aweful...like 220 on a hot day out on the trail. I just switch on the factory electric fan and it drops to 210 where it normally is. I also have a three row rad, but NO AC. CW

I thought I had some cooling problems when I had idiot lights...... I swapped in some factory gages and now see the temps will climb a bit but not aweful...like 215 on a hot day out on the trail. I switch on the factory electric fan and it drops tio 210 where it normally is. CW

Yes, Just turn it around and press ot out the opposite direction. You don't have to worry about hurting the trunion as its a old/bad one. You would not want to strike, press on NEW one as you could deform it and have problems with the joint later on. CW

Those extra leafs are pretty think. Because he is now SOA, he is getting lift from the extra helper thickness alone. But your right, not 8-9" :eek: . I would worry about wrap as well....how about removing the one ton helpers and putting in your old helper in there place? CW

Dude, I wish VERY MUCH you and I where closer. I feel responsable for this. i'm sure you tried it after talking to me about doing mine... I agree with the others, Its most probable that one or more "bearings slid down onder the cap causing your problem.... I had EXACT same thing happen on a trail, using the press to assemble a broken U-joint. Its almost like its TOO strong... Any how, here are a couple more pointers... I'll try to be as descriptive as I can. Once you get the old joint out. Clean the bores and inspect for "dings" from the old joints removal. Remove any burrs CAREFULLY with a file, being very carefule NOT to remove anymore metal than necessary to remove burr. Repeat for other side of joint. Then grease bores. Remove caps, add only enough grease to hold the "bearings" along the sides of the cap. Insert trunion into the LONG side axleshaft. Using a vice. (OR your press HELD in a vice.) Slide trunion to one side and carefully press on that cap. Now caerfilly slid trunion to otherside, but NOT completely out of the cap you just pressed on. Press on opposite side cap. Now to get the clips on you will need those sockets and a BFH. Do one side at a time and only push cap in far enough to get clip in. If you press in too far it will be even harder to do opposite side as now you are moving BOTH sides. Now repeat with stub shaft. I like to do stub last because its lighter and easier to handle and NOT LOOSE the "bearings". If at any timne you even think you may have lost a bearing. Remove that cap and check. Like others have told you. When your done, strike the sides of the joint with a rubber or dead blow hammer to "set" them. I prefer a dead blow to any steel hammer for this. You will know its good when they are no longer "stiff". Like I said, I really wish I could just come over and do this for you so you can see it done. I have two more sets of axles to do, I'll try to get some good pics and do a write up for all to see. Good luck, CW

Howdy neighbor!! :waving: NICE Find!!! Connecticut resident and member of Jonfund here!! CW

The guy there told me they just recently made a couple small changes to the Back Bone system. The web site has NOT been updated as yet... Its now 5lbs lighter, and offers better air flow to the radiator. They also moved the two tow points up and out a bit. I will make my own bumper to attach to this. You KNOW youll see pics along the way!!! Stay tuned. CW

NICE WORK!!!!! I want to have a switch so I can lock the toequwe converter whan in 1st or 2nd gear offroad. I can do that with a AW4 can't I? CW

My brother-in-law is up against this very question himself... He has a nice metric ton LWB 1988 MJ 4.0 5spd. He wants to run 35" tires. My suggestion to him is SOA rear and buy individual parts to make the front. You will need: Longer brake lines (3 of them) 1996 Dakota rear, Jeep YJ fronts Adj Lower control arms. (Uppers would be nice, but not required) Adj track bar (Spend come coin here, get a good one) Longer sway bar links. (Preferable JKS discos) 5.5" RE springs Bump stop extensions (Hockey pucks front and home built extensions for the rear) New perches for the rear Drop brackets would be very nice but not required... CW

I am all but completely sold on the one Drahcir495 recomended: This way I can build my own bumper, using this as a base. Here is the link to the web page: http://www.detoursusa.com/xjbackbone.php CW

If staying SUA yes it will drop a bit as the 8.8 has huge axle tubes. You could also swap in XJ shackles. That will drop the back about an inch more. CW

I am in the market. I don't want to spend a lot and I know these can get QUITE expensive. I gotta mount this on sumpin, :rolleyes: :bigwink: I may just make my own... :brows: Looking for ideas... :help: :help: Bri

I picked up a used WARN M8000 winch today!! A guy here on a local board put it up last night and I was lucky enough to see it first!! He got rid of it cause its too small for him, he wants a 12,000lb for a full size and + he needed some cash for school. SO, now the hunt begins for a winch bumper...maybe I'll make myown...unsure right now.... Anyone see the OR-Fab unit for XJ/MJ's? www.orfab.com Looks OK. I don't know if I like the way it looks under the lights and on the sides... I like to keep stuff up nice and high, I mean thats why we chop the fenders at the bottom of the lights right?? Price is nice.... There is also a local guy to me here in CT http://www.detoursusa.com/xjbackbone.php He makes something he calls a "BACKBONE" setup that allows the use of a factory bumper cover... All I know is I do not want to dump a pile of cash into a bumper when I can make something just like it for less than half the coin! CW

About any of them will run you 500 +. Also to back up a bit... There are "breaks" where a carrier makes a change in dimensions to coincide with gear ratios. On the D30 this is 3:73 up for one and 3:55 and down for the other. On the D44 its at 3:92 and up and 3:73 and down. This is where the thick set Dirty was referring to would come into play. Say you had 3:07 gears for your D30, and wanted 4:56. T think set of gears would allow your carrier to work with the 4:56 even though with a std set of gears it would only work with up to a 3:55 gear set. Get it? You can get the stock carriers of EBAY if you don't go the locker route. I WAS going to go with a Aussie locker myself. this is a "LUNCHBOX" locker. It is called this because it fits INSIDE a stock open carrier. it replaces the inner gears in the carrier creating a locker. Trouble is, they are out of stock and won't start getting them in until Feb and there is something like 2000 orders as of middle of last month!!! I decided to go with another ECTED. like I have in my TJ. This is a good price at 550 SHIPPED from 4wdwarehouse online. I happen to have a D44 carrier for 3:92 and up gears I bought on EBAY that I will not be needing. I'll sell to you for what I paid if you choose to go this route. There are other LUNCHBOX lockers you could go with if you choose this route. These style lockers generally run 250 - 300 bucks whale full case lockers START at 500 and go up from there. Good luck, CW

Breckrider, We are all just trying to help solve your problem. Your explination of exactly what is the problem, is well, questionable. It is leaving us with questions as to just what your problems are/where. I posted the pic to try to show you the correct terminology and just what is what. This way you can more accurately tell us what is wrong on your end. I am glad you got something from our suggestions and where able to fix your Jeep. CW

I believe they have a 25yr lease. They are only a couple years into that. Apparently the land owner is tring to evict them. He/they feel PAP has broken the lease... Hopefully the PAP folks ahve their "T"s crossed and all "I"'s dotted. This will be a legal battle all the way. I sincerely hope the PAP folks can continue a great thing they have going down there!! CW

I didnt do anything for a side marker, as this is primairly a offroad rig. Here is some more prep pics: Thats about all I have to show. If you need something specfic. Just let me know. CW

When I dicided to flat fender my TJ I removed and sold my bushwackers and got a set of Ruby flairs. They are also wider than reg TJ flairs. I like the way it came out.. Sorry for the hi-jack... :oops:

Yup, I also have a couple from this angle... :brows: :eek: :eek: :D :cheers: