CWLONGSHOT

The Cryco 8.25 is a VERY good axle. The housing is WAY strong, (3" tubes) bigger and beefer than even the D44's. But its got smaller brakes. (Same as D35) Limited by 4:56 being tallest ratio avalible. Limited by the dismully small number of lockers avalible, and last but not least, its freaking expensive!!! The gear sets are at least 50% more, lockers at least 30% more. Personally I wouldn't bother with a 27spl, unless it was aquired with all that you neded CHEAP. Although it IS A UPGRADE to the D35. A 29spline is a very good axle. One good thing is that you can swap over your existing brakes from the D35. Say if you recently had a brake job. I would try to find one in the ratio you need and if necessary throw in a lunchbox locker. Merry Christmas, CW

But you'd have to grind off all the link brackets and the coil buckets, so that kinda sucks too. I am not sudggesting the whole axle...just the disc brakes!! The axle flanges from the alum D44al and a STD D44 should be identical!!!

Thats very true!!! Didnt the ZJ's have a D44 alum center with discs??? that should bolt right up...no??? I know the center section is different as far as D44's go but the axle ends should be same..... Merry Christmas Everyone, CW

Thats pretty much it!! The Rancho, Ol'man emu and Skyjackers are much better at masking other problems than the factory units. Some times they are just necessarry to completely eliminate a slight shudder for the wheel. Merry Christmas everyone, CW

They are as good as anyones!! Stay away from the heim jointed ones if your on the street...... maybe just change out those bushings, but otherthan that, get em and ruin em!! Merry Christmas Everyone!! CW

Just be sure to trace and plug the vacume SOURCE!!! Merry Christmas everyone!! CW

You Post lady of the night!!! :redX: :D :cheers: don't sweatit man, its ALL good!!! Merry Christmas, CW

You will be fine, as long as your truss is well designed. EVEN THEN, this RUBY D44 is a good axle for this vehicle as its a bit LIGHTER then its intended useage. The D30 is a good axle and stands up well to even fairly aggressive driving on 35" tires. You can bend the housing, but mostly you will just break the DS shaft. the D44 will help huge there!!! The trussing is addressing the one WEAK spot on this axle. CW

LOOKS an aweful lot like mine!!! I think I have about 10$ invested in mine!!! CW

I don't know if this will work...but I started a slide show, from my photobucket account and pasted the link to that here.... :popcorn:

I have never herd a complaint about them in the snow!!! You obvoiusly get more out there when I do here.... Coopers and kellys have been good as well as bridgestone AT's. they revamped them this year. they do look a bit more aggressive...... CW

Wanna sell it??? :brows: I am interested in another non disco D30. Your not too far from me. Whats the time frame on your end? Would after the holidays work OK? BTW, With a sawsall its a QUICK thing to remove a D30 from a cherokee!!! :brows: :brows: :brows: It will take longer to jack it up and safely block it!!! Ask me how I know!!! ;) But seriously. I am interested in the axle. CW

I agree with the previous posts. This swap will not be worth the time and effort. Find a D44 or 8.8 and put the effort into that. In the mean time run what you have a be careful with the skinny pedal. I would take the NON"C" clip over the "C" Clip D35, that is correct. but to do what you are suggesting its just not worth it. BTW, you "C" Clip haters out there....Here is a news flash the 8.8 & 8.25 are both "C" CLIP axles!!! The nice thing with the 1996 and up 8.8 is, in the unlikely event you manage to brake an axle the disc brakes will keep it from running out. Now I wouldn't go to far or to fast with the calliper bolts holding the axle in, but with a ginger pedal, it will get you off the trail!!! I am runnin a NON "C" Clip D345 with 33's locked and you have all seen the pics I posted. its not hard core stuff, but its still only a D35 on 33's!! There is a guy in my club who wheels prety hard on NON "C" Clip D35s w 35's!!! :eek: :eek: He has broken a couple axles, but hes still going strong with it!!! Its all the way you wheel. Having a auto is easier on it also. CW

There is buku confusion concerning the D30 and D44 in CJ's and Wranglers!! Its now even more so as the new TK axles are different yet again!! As for the new TK axles. I have only read about the D30 and D35. Both are wider, both are stronger with thicker tubes and larger bearings. I didn't read anything on the D44's. The D30 got upgraded around 95-96 to D44 sized outers. NOT D44 down graded to D30 parts. A Ruby D44 is a D44 with a slightly weaker case, because of the thinner axle tubes. But it still has the larger 30spl axles, bearings ring and pinion gears. Its also using a different joint. Its slightly stronger than the 760/597 joint it had before and so far it is a ruby exclusive. The D44 is avalible in at least three stregnths. 1/4 ton for the CJ/Wrangler. A 1/2 ton in Cherokees, Comanches, Fords, Dodge & Chevy. and a 3/4 ton found in FSJ, Ford, Dodge, Chevy. CW

There is a VERY good chance thet they are ALL 3:55's!!! Thats the norm for AW4 and a 4.0!! CW

The door switch and the headlight switch are already together on the MJ. You will know you have it right, when you wire it, if the lights go off when you close the door. The extra power lead is there because the MJ lights will "rock" and turn on. (IF working properly and most don't) CW

The NON disco is a margoinally stronger case and the one I would choose. The disco does have its atributes as well. You only need to find a post 96 D30 and swap in those shafts to get 760 joints for the strongest D30 the factory had to offer!!! CW

Not this one...at least not until I get it in a couple years!!! :brows: :brows: They DO look sweet lifted!! Image Not Found CW

YES!!! It was a Intrepid. Actually a very good car to us. Just WAY crappy lights!! That is NOT a problem on this new one!!! Now I just have to figure out where to hide it till next Sunday night!!! CW

CORRECT. In the comanche there are three wires to the lights. One is ground. One is power from the door & headlight switches and the last one is just fused power. Remember these lights are supposed to come on when rotated. Seldom do they actually work!! Use the Ground and one of the other wires. Best way to test is with a test light or meter. CW

Its a 1999 WJ Grand Cherokee Limited 4.7L V8 Infinity sound system W/CD changer,full-time 4WD. Its for my wife for Christmas, I figure this "auta" max out the balance in my brownie point acount!! :brows: At the very least it will make it easier to paint and regear the MJ past her when she ballances the check book!!!!! Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found CW

VERY well said!!! For a all terrian I like the BFG AT's but they do not like mud.... You won't go wrong with the TOYO AT's either. This is what I have on a light wheeler that sees mostly road driving where long tire wear and excellent road traction under all conditions is wanted. If you are on the road for anything but to and from the trail stay away from most all Interco Swampers. They are TOP NOTCH for the trail but poor handling, imposible to balance and very short life are the main complaints on the road. This is my experience, CW

They do flex very well. Also I have too long a shock in there, so up travel is limited!!! I will work all that out with the rear D44 swap w 4:56's thats on the garage floor right now!! :cheers: :brows: CW

Can you translate for me? Quick air I I am OK with whats NO TANK? Where is the co2 held? Agreed its volume of air to seat a bead, not speed. Your part of your last sentance... I don't understand what your trying to say. :roll: CW

Good point Dirty!! I was just thinking that!!! :cheers: CW