CWLONGSHOT

Thats because the Frame end is designed wrong... Which way does your suspension travel??..... Up and Down..... Where to get the most movement from a Heim????... When it spins around the bolt.. So why put a bolt vertical, when the most travel comes from it being horizontal???? My advice to you... Is forget about putting in a TRE.... and just build a bracket fromthe stock frame bracket that allows you to bolt the heim horizontal.. You will get way better flex, and the joint will actually last longer as its now being used as it was intended!!! HTH Ryan Thats a VERY interesting idea!! I kinda doubt it would make it last longer as the forces on it would be the same side to side, but DEFINEATELY would get better up and down!!!! Maybe it was weakened by up and down, but the movement in it is a couple thousands either direction. I kinda think the nylon incert is compressing rom the driving forces holding the axle centered. The MOOG TRE is my best bet with out modding the bracketry. I just have to get the flaming RANCHO incert that eliminates the taper from the hole out!!! The only way I can see is to destroy it by collapsing one side to reduse its diameter with a chisle/punch. There is not enough of it there to grad ahold of and you cannot get at it from above to drive it down, because of the limited space... CW

In case anyone needs this, here is the part number for a MOOG Tie Rod End replacement to the RANCHO HEIM joint on their track bars. My heim lasted about 10,000 miles before it bagan to clunk. The replacement part I found is, MOOG part Number ES2847RT from a Dodge truck. According to the Moog catalogue, its the ONLY one that will work, it has the same 3/4-16 thread as well as, the same 1/2" tapered joint as factory Jeep track bars. No other modifications are required. You will still have an adjustable track bar. I will post some pics when I actually put it in later this week. CW

I agree completely with dirty!! 87 mentioned size considerations. The 350 is a LITTLE motor compaired to any other V8. Its smaller than the 302 and you get 50 more cubes!!! The parts avalible and overall low cost in my opinion FAR OUTWEIGH any other consideration. I have been a FORD guy for a long time. But IMHO, the 350 cheby is your best bet. CW

Thats my question as well. they LOOK good. Personally I would want them to run down the "frame" and attach as many times as possible. I am still using the factory POSITIONED tow hooks. i bold position as the bracketry is more MD than factory stuff. But I do not like the idea of down turned hooks. Its just wrong and could hang you up bad if it hooks something. I have seen 1.25 sq X 6" long pieces of steel that bolt to the factory position but extend out as yours have with a hole in the end for a shackle. I like these alot. I will be making myself up a set over the winter!! Yours is very nice and clean, good job!! CW

Thats a good idea about VIOTECH!! I am kinda self tought welder. I took it years back in HS. Migs make it easy to run a nice bead. I couple friends as welders to ceitique dosent hurt either. :brows: :brows: Any way, poop pipe rules for this stuff!!! :D Thats what moxt of my junk is made from. Its perfectly fine for non life saving items, like bumpers skids sliders, swingouts etc. Just a big NO NO for roll cages. I say make friends and get that welder over. You buy the pizza and beer he welds!!! If he's using a mig buy him a roll of wire as well!! I'd be happy to give some suggestions if that would help. Email me @ brian@jonfund.com CW

My style sliders where pretty easy to make. Do you weld or have a buddie who does??? CW

This can be tricky and a ROYAL PIA!!! One thing I have found thats a godsend is a beefy 2" ratchet strap. I attach it to ANYTHING form the rear axle, another Jeep to the garage floor lip and wall to get the right angle to pull the axle into position. My Hilift has also worked, although not as well.... Also, be careful about unscrewing bolts completely. There can be ALOT of force on the CA's. Enough to flatten out the threads on the bolt ruining it!! I am not the best one to give advice on patience as I have NONE for this kind of stuff. BUT, :) :oops: walking away and having a beer or a smoke can calm you down enough to see something you may miss with anger. A long tapered prybar is also helpful as others suggested. Go get yourself a ratchet strap and you'll get it!!

Not positive if its this way on MJ's but many auto's use TWO FLASHERS. oner for signals and the other for the 4 ways. SO, if MJ's are the same I would say you have two seperate problems. they could very well be ground problems. I would check all bulbs then change out the flasher (s). CW

NEW Ubolts are the best bet anyway!!! I find it better to lean a bit on the SAFE side... CW

I am just winging it and having a BALL!!! Its a freakin' desease and I don't WANT the cure!!!! I had a bit of carnage from the wheeling test trip Juan and I took Saturday after the locker install... I was goind down a steep incline where the front tires began to go up the opposite side before the rear tires made it to the bottom. The excessive amount of rear overhang did just that...hang. Well that trwaked the exhaust and bent up some bracketry in the back of the bed. Nothing structural. but the exhaust is not loose from the engine back. I got up nuder there and very cautiously sprayed, loosened and then tightened the exhaust flange bolts. I got them as tight as I dared. Then on down the line. the clamp at the cat was loose, I replaced that. The tail pipe was flat for the last two feet. So off came that. I chopped the pipes off about a foot past the muffler and added a 90 degree pipe and a one foot straight piece. I exited the truck beneth the frame just behind the front spring hanger but in front of the tire. It was a cheap and easy fix. I hope its legal...I seem to remember as long as its so many feet behind the rear most seated passanger its OK.

Looks fun!! Question, how well do your rear skocks work at such a reward angle? CW

LOOKS GREAT!!!

Thnaks man!! I found them in Southington at RPM near the Southington Drive in!! I am in Meriden, BTW. CW

YES, there are some cosmetic differences. But you will be able to bolt on all parts you would need for the repair. CW

Mounted up some HELLA lights thas week end!! These are 550's fog lights. I used 14ga thru out with individual power and ground wires for each light. All thru a relay and triggered by my parking lights. I wired them into the factory fog light switch on the dash!! So they will work with hi OR lo OR no beams, and can be turned off at any time indipendedt of any other light. I didn't get a chance to adjust them. So no pics of how much illumination they offer. CW

What an ordeal to get the lights on!!! I had to make up some prety elaborate brackets to make it work!! Image Not Found Image Not Found The front facia is just that..a fasade. no real solid structure to bolt to. So i had to run it way back up to the radaitor support then down and arround the ac condensor to the edge of the bumper than weld on tabs to bring it straight out. Works VERY well, looks ok, not quite right but I do not care. As I said it just wasn't safe for the wife before. Image Not Found Image Not Found Here they are all done. (Accept for final adjustments) Image Not Found CW

BTF is what I have on my TJ!! CW

www.4wd.com and many other mail order web sites!! Its good stuff. I have been using www.rustbullet.com lately and like it as well. You do not need to top coat this, its UV safe. BUT you will want to as its silver!!! CW

theres torque specs for flywheels? :D we did a flywheel swap on a friend's S-10, I only did the bolts medium tight with a rachet, I don't think anyone tightened them right down. As I typed that I just KNEW someone would come back and say something like that!!! Well, I won't be riding in that vehicle.....hope its OK for him!! :eek: :eek: CW

Do yourself a favor and buy a HD diff cover for it. If you plan on any time in the rocks!!! those covers are PAPER thin and will ruin you day in a hurry if you don't. At the VERY LEAST, remove the cover and grind off the lip allong the lower edge. It will help reduce the cover getting peeled back and puking your fluid all over the trail. YES, THIS IS EXPERIENCE TALKING!!! :eek: :cry: :D CW

You'll be back to the BFG's after trying the MTR's!! Like it or not, BFG's are THE tire all others are judged by. For a street/trail tire. If offroad only, SWAMPERS RULE!!! BTW, I have seen a couple adds for 37" MTR's for $199 Each!!

:popcorn: Come on in, pull up a chair!! Lotsa good folks on here!! CW

Some people say anything above 4" you should address the steering. I can tell you this, at my 6+ lift I am maxing out the TRE's every time I flex the suspention. The more I do it the faster I wear out the joint, the faster it breaks. I actually limit my articulation in the front with my stock steering linkage. I would be swapping it NOW, if I seriously wheeled this rig!! CW

The torque spec for things like this is based on the bolt size. There is a chart: http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/bolts/SAE_bolts.html don't worry, tightening by feel in this situation will be fine. Its not a like its a head bolt or a fly wheel. CW

I do all kinds of shooting. I am a NRA certified instructor in rifle and pistol. I FOUND THEM!!!! RPM in Southington CT, has them INSTOCK and for CHEAPER than Quadratech!!!! For $88 bucks each, $85 Quadratech but NO SHIPPING!!! One set for the wife and one for me! :D CW