CWLONGSHOT

I have a glass pack on my MJ and a DYNOMAX ULTRA on my TJ. Both are 4.0's, the TJ has a Banks torque tube header and a free flow cat. The MJ has a free flow cat but the factory exhaust manafold. I'll try to remmeber to get clips of both for you later today. CW

I agree, running no muffler will get obnoxiously loud. The neighbors and jonny law will not appreciate it!! Get yourself a glass pack. Its a STRAIGHT THRU design and offers some reduction in sound. Once its broken in, its really got a nice throaty tone. They are WAY DURABLE and CHEAP to boot!! Its THE way to go. CW

I am thinking maybe we have a problem with terminology going on here.. Here is a pic to straighten that out. Image Not Found CW

That property is sick, huh. I LOVE IT!! These guys do a nice video! CW

Not to be a smart arse.....but get a adj track bar. :roll: Unsure what could be happening...The factory one is too short @5" of lift. There is not enough meat in the factory bracketry to re-drill to compensate for that amount of lift..... Its likely safe to drive, its is something you should take care of next chance you get. BTW...WELCOME to COMANCHE CLUB!!!! :chillin: CW

The BA10 is also a two pieces case. Its like a clam chell its split right down the middle!! Its also only found behind 6 cyls. CW

LOOKS SUPER!!! I also LOVE the factory ruby rims on MJ's!!! BTW, I see you moved your rear shocks WAY up and on top of the axle. Where did you put the top of the shock mount? I mounted mine about centered on the axle tubes and they are too short. I need longer shocks as well. I will be making up a new top mount and tipping the tops in to the center so I can get a longer one in there. CW

Extended forcast for the week end is 60's!!! PLENTY warm for any red blooded jeeper to go topless!!!!! :roll: ;) :brows: CW

This is for a COMPLETE AXLE?????? I NEED to take a trip there!!!!

Stock 4cyls got 4:10's and there is a rumor about some being 4:56. SO with out seeing yours and knowing the D35 aptitude for breakage... :eek: :D I am going to guess someone swapped out the REAR with one of the WRONG gear ratio. BUT, this will only be a problem if you shift into 4WD. In 2WD this will cause NO PROBLEMS. If you plan on running like this, (Its OK to do) I would recommend you remove the FRONT drive shaft, so there are NO MISTAKES. There will be NO binding i n 2WD. Sometimes the front axle/T-case takes a few feet to completely disengage before you get back to 2WD. You could jack up the front end and turn it by hand to be sure its completely disengaged. As far what gears to go to that's a tough one. Personally I would go as numerically high as you can and that is 4:88's with the D30/D35 axles. CW

I agree with using the rears on all four corners. It looks much "cleaner" than using fronts and rears. :eek: :eek: CW

I just did my valve cover gasket yesterday. I couldn't tell if I had a leak or not. I mean I KNOW I had a leak, I just didn't know if it was the Valve cover or not. ;) In looking at the old gasket and the way it came off it appears I did at least to an extent. Time will tell if I have eliminated my "rear main" leak or not. I have also had a hack of a time sealing the disco in the axle!! I redid that yesterday as well...for the third time!!! Ever since the 4x4 cable lock went in its been a Leakey. Leaks from the mounting flange. If there was more room I would add two bolts on the sides!! CW

I assume your speaking about the TOY axles. That's the reason I mentioned 2WD axles. they are the same bolt pattern our jeeps have!! Then you just swap in a center section form a 6cyl 4WD TOY and you gots a really strong axle with a better profile than the D35 and the same bolt pattern!! The only issues would be minor, like metric threads on the brake lines and hose as well as a little finagling for the drive shaft attachment. I am now more perplexed. I was really leaning to the 8.25 as costs will make it the most economical. Well lockers and gears for it are almost DOUBLE what the 44 will cost. I haven't priced the brake parts yet. That will be the clincher, I'll find that out today. CW

I handnt thought about discs.... Do you think that would be a cheaper option?? I have discs all around on the TJ and LOVE it!! CW

OK, I have seen the pics of the 8.25 looks OK, just needs complete brakes just like the D44 does. Any one know for sure if all 1999 XJ 8.25's where 29 spline? I THINK they where....Pretty sure its got 3:55's as well. Image Not Found Image Not Found Question is if I go to the trouble of putting complete brakes on it, just to get a traction device for the winter.... And do I really want a 8.25 instead of the D44?? I'll have to price out brakes and see. I am pretty sure the 8.25's will be cheaper and the axle itself has less up front costs and the same gears setup fees. so the difference in higher cost gears and LS are negated somewhat.... I have to do some cost comparisons... CW

EAGLE, You are SOO RIGHT!!! If its got 3:55's I could do the perches and get it under there NOW and have better traction for THIS winter!!! This would allow me all winter to squirrel away some more coin for the traction device, gears and gears set up!! PONG , It's good to see ya back. I for one missed your comments!! The HPD30 will be fine for me and my intentions on this vehicle. Going by a couple of your vid clips, you have a certain fondness for the skinny peddal I seem to lack. Plus you are running bigger TIRES. :brows: (Just for you Eagle) I have been running the factory LPD30 on my TJ locked with 33's for four years now with zero problems. This TJ is trails only for the past year and sees some very hard trails. Blacks and double blacks where the rule last trip to Paragon in PA. I have a non disco HPD30 sitting in the garage I'm also rebuilding for it. Thought long and hard about a D44 for it, but I just do not think Its needed for me and my style of wheeling. CW

Nice video!! I copied your link and post and threw it up on the www.JONFUND.com site!! The guys over there are loving it too!! THANKS, CW

You guys are too funny...I'll try to curtail the tars...AHEM....TIRES comments. ;) Well, I am still leaning sharply towards the D44... BUT I just located a lomileage 8.25 from a '99XJ for $50!! I am going to grab it just because, its a 29spline and should have a factory LS. So the guy says..... My pile-O-parts for future projects is getting bigger and bigger... :brows: :chillin: CW

A number of companies offer 4" coils for the front. RE is the first that comes to mind... You are gonna need shocks, an adj track bar as well as some adj control arms for proper caster adjustments. Then some extended brake hoses and an allignment when its done. No drop for the Tcase, it should be just fine. BTW, I have the Rustys 4" springs and love them..but you will get more than 4" of lift from them!! CW This is a shot right after the springs went in. If I remember correctly, its sitting on 33" trexus MT's.

This is a hrd one to find, If i am not mistaken they are only found in 2WD 6cyl toys. that way i get the right bolt pattern AND the stronger housing and third member.... Its a nice thought and it would defineately be different..... I am leaning to the D44... I found out my price on the D44...cheaper than I thought!! also, as I was looking thru my parts I found a master rebuilding kit for a D44 as well as some setup bearings..all brandy new!!! CW

The 8.8 DEFINEATELY hangs lower, I have measured, the damn thing is almost D60 SIZED!!! Like I said I have one in my TJ. Its going to be one of these three D44, D35 (SUPER) or the 8.25 chry. CW

Here is my delima... I am now at the point where I need to address my axles on the MJ. I most of you know its a 6cyl AW4 on 33x10.5x15's with 3:55 gears in the stock HP disco D30 and D35 axles. My thought for the rear axle: I do not want a 8.8 as I drag the one on my TJ on about everything and don't much like that. Plus the width plays a larger part in the MJ as rim offsets are more critical and I already have my tars and rims. A D44 IS a good strong option and I can have one in about 15mins if I choose to go that way. I also ALREADY have a master rebuilding kit for a D44 as well as setup bearings. A Super 35 is a strong possibility. I have a buddie that has one in his 88YJ on 37" tars. Its not broken for MANY miles of super hard trails. In all reality this truck is not going to see super hard trails, its WB and overhangs are just TOO long. But I would wheel it more with stronger axles and proper gears. A buddie has offered me a 8.25 axle for next to nothing. I am unsure if its a 27 or 29 spline. I do not see the sense in building a 27 when 29's are so plentiful. traction devices are a bit more as well as gears but now enough to make too much difference. Set-up fees will be about the same. My thought for the Front axle: The factory HIPD30 will be just fine, nothing stronger is necessary. I have three complete HPD 30's, and one carrier with complete 4:10 gears. One D30 is a non-disco w 3:55 gears, the other is also a disco with 3:07 gears and the last is a disco w/3:55's its currently under the MJ. :D I could just look for another complete front w/4:10 already installed. OR I could have SVE put the 4:10's in one of the D30 I already own. I am leaning to 4:10's as I have the AW4 auto. Costs: To go with the D44, I am figuring I'll have about a $1325 cost. Considering the D44 is only usable for the housing and axles. I would need a new carrier($400 for a Tru-Track) gears ($175), complete Brakes, including drums($150), and gears set up (250-300). Not to mention the initial cost of the axle ($200). Stay with my D35 but build a Super 35, I'm figuring that will run me about $1475. I'll have the product cost (+/-1000), gears (175) and SVE's set up fees for the gears (250-300). Brakes on my D35 are new including drums. BUT I'll still have a D35, but better ground clearance. To build the 8.25, This one will run me almost $1400 bucks. I am unsure about the brakes. So I have to assume a complete rebuild ($150) Traction device is a bit more ($450), gears also a bit more ($ 200), Master rebuilding kit ($175) Set up of the gears again a constant for all axles ($250-300) Plus the cost of the axle itself, say $100. Front axle, If I buy another one I'll have 250-300 cost for purchase and I am done. (I'll install) If I have SVE Performance set up the gears, I'll have about the same cost but an axle I am familiar with. I haven't mentioned any costs associated in the installation of the axles them selves or any of the welding that will be required. That's because I will handle all that my self here at home. So there is no actual out of pocket fees associated. What would YOU do??? Help me spend some of my money!!! CW[/b]

Feerocknok That looks like a MIGHTY short rear brake line you have there!!! :eek: You DEFINEATELY NEED to get some reinforcement onthose shackles!! WOW. I thought MINE where long at 7 3/4" eye to eye!! Yours are OVER 9"!!! :eek: :roll: CW

Yes I do, they are factory or near factory length. So no real lift potential with their use... I was going to suggest a longer shackle. A 7.5" shackle will net you near the 2" you need and is WAY easier than a SOA which will net you close to 5" BTW. CW