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Everything posted by CWLONGSHOT
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anyone ever order these
CWLONGSHOT replied to DansGreyMj's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Guys, I gotta say. I have been RUSTYS basher and have had some problems with their service and products in the past. But these springs are VERY GOOD. They ride better than stock, flex better than stock and provide more than advertised lift. They are even VERY competitively priced!! I am VERY SATISFIED!!! CW -
I LOVE the look!!! But I had them on my TJ and they where not nearly as resiliant and durable as the factory flairs!!! That copper MJ shown above is one of the nicest looking setup I have ever seen!!! I have seen it here before! I LIKE the TJ flairs idea, only I would NOT use the front flairs. Use all rear ones!! This gives you a FACTORY look and buko durability!!! CW
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hardly tech.... replacement interior lights?
CWLONGSHOT replied to BrettM's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Mine didn't have them either, BUT they where wired from the factory. I added some form an XJ and they plugged right in and worked fine!!! NICE ADDITION!!! CW -
Derric, That is one of my favorite trails!!! I havent been there with the MJ. But The TJ has been many times!! Image Not Found Image Not Found Here is a couple vid clips form a couple summers ago. CW
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I stayed SUA but am sitting at about 7" of lift and do NOT have a sye or any problems. I also still have the factory DS. An SYE also adds agreat deal of stregnth to the 231 Tcase. CW
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To clarify, The front of a ZJ, XJ, TJ, & MJ are interchangeable was far as the control arms and related bracketry. So any of these are a bolt in for ya. There are some other differences, like rotors, hubs and steering linkage, but they will bolt right up no problem!! The rear is different and NOT a direct bolt in. First off, XJ's are SOA while MJ's are SUA. As Oizarod mentioned, the leafs themselves are a different legnth so that won't work at all. You need a set new of spring perches. The width's are different. XJ leafs are mounted outbound of the "frame", while MJ's are directly UNDER it. Just grind/torch off the factory perches and re-weld on the new ones in the correct locations. :chillin: CW
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anyone ever order these
CWLONGSHOT replied to DansGreyMj's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I ordered them some time back and JCW ended the order because they could not fill the order. I waited about three months when I got the letter telling me the BO on the set of springs was discontinued. JCW is nothing but a BROKER, they drop ship the majority of thier "inventory" from other manufacturers. Personally I would not waste your time...I ordered the RUSTYS 4" leafs and have been VERY HAPPY with them. They too screwed up the order and had to ship one spring three times..BUT once I got them and installed them I was happy. CW -
No problem, as you see I got 'er done!! :brows: :brows: My puter has been down for the past week, I just got it back up about an hour ago. So I got some SEROIUS chtching up to do!!! CW
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http://www.offroadlockers.com/ Full list in Acrobat format Looks like they are avalible direct from the factory!!! Shipping costs for the Aussie Locker is $14.00 per unit. This includes insurance and the rate is good for anywhere in the lower 48 states. We use UPS Ground for all shipping. CW
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SEAN, I have a pile-O-parts growing for my NEXT jeep. :brows: I have the ACOS's some extended shackles. Those rims I just finished painting up with a set of new BFG at's in 30X9.5X15 tars. I have a XJ fact push bar, a adj front track bar. A set of YJ shocks and a set of YJ front brake hoses. So as you can see, I will be holding on to this stuff for the next "DEAL" on a Jeep that comes my way!! Looking at those pics I can see one big problem....my bed NEEDS a paint job!!!! CW
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Irish, I kinda figured it was for a splash or chebys version..Thanks for the conformation!! Today I swapped out the ACOS's for some poly spacers. I only used them because I was unsure what kind of lift the RUSTYS rear leafs would give me.... Then I drilled and finished mounting the roll bar to the bed. I remounted my Hi-Lift. This time to the floor of the bed directly under the roll bar. I need to make up a new mount for the CO2 bottle and the larger Fire Extinguisher. Here is a couple pics: CW
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YUP, Lockers are WONDERFUL lo-side finders!!! Spinning locked axles will ALWAYS find the down hill side and move you there in a HURRY!!! More guys roll on a incline spinning the front because of this!! Back on topic: I had a EZ-Locker and it was fine, busted two axles in my D35 TJ before I upgraded to a 8.8..... I have a non-Disco Hi-pinion D30 sitting on the garage floor. its going to be stuffed with alloy axles and a ECTED locker. In the mean time to keep my TJ locked I picked up a AUSSIE locker. Its JUST like the EZ and the LOCK-=RITE, only better, cheaper and more durable WITHOUT the tire size warranty problems the others have. Aussie KNOWS we run big tars and DOESNT VOID warranty with a large tar like EZ & Lock-rite does!!! Give them a try!! I LOVE mine..its going RIGHT INTO THE MJ. Once the hi-pinion is finished for the TJ!! CW
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Thats quite the buggie aint it?? :D :roll: :roll: cw
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OME shocks for MJ's ?
CWLONGSHOT replied to jeepdoggydogB's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
YJ jeep FRONT shocks from the same year will be a couple inches longer. For the REAR, I was able to get a set of RANCHO extended shocks for my MJ.... I measured and checked and by mounting higher on the axle I was able to use these even tho I am sitting at about 5" of lift in the rear..... CW -
Death Wobble, The Saga Continues
CWLONGSHOT replied to Rundel's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
One of the genuine mysteries about DW is how you can never adequately explain it to someone who has never experienced it ... and there's no need to explain it to someone who HAS experienced it. Well...I TRIED... :cry: I didn't post it to preach to the choir... :cry: :cry: CW -
Well, I got to work on the ROLL BAR today!! I chopped it in the center and added 12.5" to the two main hoops. Then I chopped the rear bars so the outer most ones would sit on the sides of the wheel wells and added plates on them so I could bolt them down. Then I ground down the welds and filled the lo spots with red lead. Then PAINT!! I really like the new look!!! BEFORE: AFTER: Tomorrow I'll finish bolting it down. Then I'll weld the Hi-Lift mounts. Screw on the new fire extinguisher and mount up my CO2 bottle!! CW
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Death Wobble, The Saga Continues
CWLONGSHOT replied to Rundel's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
To answer for EAGLE, YES. Tire balance and Alignment are the BIG One's!! The HARMONIC is a tough one to describe online..but I'll attempt it... Lets set up a scenario, Your driving a mid 80's XJ with say 120,000 miles and not so good routine maintenance. The steering box is a bit loose but not major. You got some new snow tars last winter. After doing a lube and filter, the mechanic told you, you should think about replacing the TRE's soon. But the ol' girl is driving fine and you kinda forget about it. One day on the way to work there was a bad storm the night before and flooding everywhere. You don't worry as you drive a Jeep. You ford right thru the standing water with out a worry. Just before you get on the freeway, you go thru another puddle, but this one slows you right down. You make it thru but it seemed funny. Once on the high way you start to feel a little bounce in the front end. Then in a curve you hit a seam in the road and all of a sudden WHAMO the wheel is jerking all over the place, the front end of the Jeep is bouncing wildly. The jeep seems uncontrollable. You slam on the breaks and pull over clutching you chest. You KNOW you just totally destroyed the front end of your jeep. You get out and give everything a look see, but find nothing....you have just experienced DEATH WOBBLES. What caused them?? Well a combination of parts and circumstances. 1)Your steering box is loose (Steering wheel is not positive when turning) 2) Your TRE's are loose. 3) You picked up some mud from that puddle before entering the freeway 4) You hit a bump in a turn Well, that bump "set" the harmonics in motion. Think of a bicycle wheel. Have you ever held one when someone spun it. Do you remember that force when you tried to "wiggle" the wheel. You know that's centrifugal force. The force imparted on a wheel set into motion. the force keeps the wheel straight. Even though the TRE's and steering linkage has play, you don't feel anything. Well add the out of balance from the mud and the bump in the road and the slight turn of the wheels and the wheels where forced to the right as far as the "slack" in the TRE's would allow. almost instantly the centrifugal forces forced the wheels back in the other direction only to pass center and slam in to other end of the slop in the front end. this continues back and forth, back and forth SUPER fast and IS the harmonics that is DW. Think of a figure * sideways, the infinity sign. It continues and continues until acted upon by something to stop it. In this case you hit the brakes that do NOTHING to the actual DW other than eliminate the motion that in turn stops the DW. Eliminate the mud, the bump and the slight turn and that jeep could likely drive fine again for some time. More likely, the severity of the DW further wasted the steering linkage and TRE's to the point where now they are too bad and MUST be replaced. I hope that better explains DW. CW -
Offend me HOW??? I LIKE showing pics and talking about my JEEPS!!! :D 8) WELL, Here is what I have done in that regard: I have extra bracing under and on the sides. I have extra thick mounting plate as well as three bolts holding the tar on. Then I set the depth so the side walls of the tar are compressing against the frame of the swing out. I mounted the whole shebang at a slight angle so the tar is using gravity to hold it on the gate. Its very solid with zero rattles or movement once its latched. CW
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how your TJ set-up? Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found CW
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I added this instead: So when it closes, the gate lifts up and sitts on top of the side post. So all the weight, of the entire gate is sitting on the strongest piece. :D ;) CW
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Here is a shot of approx 7" of lift and a 31" tar... Here is the same lift with 33" tars: CW
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Man, I really want to write a FAQ regarding this question and a bunch of others. You want something stronger! (Ford 8.8, XJ/MJ D44, Wagoneer D44s/AMC20, Isuzu 12B, Bronco 9"/D44, etc etc.) SO DO IT!!! I think its a GREAT Idea!! Write it and post it we can all comment and Pete can revise and post as a FAQ!!! With the credit going to you!! CW
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GOOD THINKING!!! Doing rotations on my TJ is WAY easy too. The thing is soo short, I just Hi lift it between the tars on the side and lift up one side, swap tars, torque and lower it!! I cad do it on the MJ too but not as easily, because of the extra legnth. CW
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This "Roll Bar" is more for the "BURLY LOOK" than the true functional roll cage. Its not intended to be a safety roll cage in any way. But Having said that, I'm not going to run out with some sheet metal screws and attach it!!! :eek: :D Feerocknok, You got a sharp eye!! Yes I will!! Likely to those rear bars on the roll bar. Wombat, I have wheeled this and will do so on easy trails. but my wheeling Jeep is a '99 TJ . Its got about everything I need to tackle any trail I have come across. Its not done, (Are they ever done?) But its close. Next year it will get Q78 swampers and a rebuilt front axle with alloy shafts and another ECTED locker like the rear has. The front that's there now will be gutted and its Aussie locker will go into the MJ!!! Click on the link in my sig and check out all the pics I have in my photo bucket account!! 87, Sure If you have the pic of the mounting plates that would be great!! I'll get the idea of where the factory wanted it. I doubt I'll be able to get it exactly where the factory one goes...but I can get close!! Twisted, thanks for the compliments!! :bowdown: Thanks, CW
