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CWLONGSHOT

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Everything posted by CWLONGSHOT

  1. LOOKIN' GOOD!!! CW
  2. just to clarify, the t-case takes any standard automatic transmission fluid, while the diffs (and manual transmissions) take gear oil (80w90 will do) The T-case is good with dextron II or better BUT THE TRANNYS can also take AUTO TRanny fulid OR OIL. You need to know what tranny and look it up or post up and someone may know off the top of there head. So to fully answer your question: YES, to the use of Gextron II or better in the T case in our manches. NO, to the use of OIL in all manche trannys. (Some manuals like the AX15, use AUTO tranny fluid in manual trannys) YES, to the use of OIL (With proper additives if LS diff) in the axles. CW
  3. Lots of simple overlooked things can cause overheating. These are problematic in closed systems like our manche's have. Air in the system as others have suggested was my first thought. ESPECIALLY, if the overheating is a new thing since the water-pump and thermostat. Eagle is the voice of reason and is spot on that Radiators do go bad. One other thing, Although the MJs' don't have a true pressure cap, like an open system. If the cap doesn't seal, the system cannot pressurize and this could also cause the overheating issue. Check this stuff and get back to us. CW
  4. If just the T-case seal's, thats no biggie. Pretty easy job , if you havent much experience, its a good one to get your feet wet with!! CW
  5. I agree.. :agree: And I will add. be sure of the D44 your buying. There is a metric version, (Isuzu) as well as a D44A (V8 ZJ/WJ). Both/Either would work for you if you have all the parts, but many on the parts ARE NOT INTERCHANGEABLE with a std D44. CW
  6. I agree with that, the Wide Track axles are about 56". Narrow was about 51". MJ/XJ/YJ/TJ/ZJ axles are 60". I wanna say the Scout II's are about 58"...but don't remember for sure. CW
  7. YUP, You could just swap in a conventional yoke as well... I heard that somewhere before.... :brows: :shake: Pete, Unless my TJ is different, the factory FORD flange worked perfectly with the factory DS When I swapped in the 8.8. It also works with Tom Woods thats under it now. CW
  8. Yup, Thats def a 8.25 Crysler axle. CW
  9. Finally found it.... Not Wow....WHY????? :roll: :oops: CW
  10. question would be why not.. stonger :brows: more gear choices :nuts: full floating axle :hmm: or thats what he wants :D actually not all 60 are full floating.the Mopar axle that keeps coming up was a semi floater.the 5 lug dana 60 in the J truck was a semi floater and only had 19 splines on the axle shaft which is pretty much useless for strength. the only options you have is either cutting one down or using a larger offset on the rims to help bring the tires back in. While you are corrrect some are semi floaters. Useless for stregnth...not so. Not as strong as a 30 spline, yes, but its still got beef in the housing as well as larger axle shafts a large ring gear and good sized bearings. Spline count is important because it afords a greater contact surface area, But don't forget, a larger surface area is also gained by larger diameter shaft. :D CW
  11. If you get the 8.25 out of a XJ, YES its the same width as a MJ. CW
  12. Most likely here is what you got: AUTO= AW4 STICK= Puke goat BA-10 Limited slip= Trac-Loc You should also have a gas tank skid as well as tow hooks front and (Some apps) a single rear hook. CW
  13. IIRC, depending on year the Waggy and Scout are the correct width.. but there are other issues with each. 1) Scout is overall kinda funky and you cannot use front axle as is, the caster is set way off for Jeep use. One good thing is the 5 on 5.5 lug spacing. 2) Waggy is a good strong swap, BUT uses the 6on 6.5 lug spacing. Also requires some swaping with CJ parts to get a no nonsence set up for the front. One down side...usually CRAPPY 27? gearing. CW
  14. Not necessarily... you could swap to a conventional yoke OR just be sure to take it when you get the axle from the donor exploder!!! CW
  15. WTF, All I seem to find is page after page after page of REVISITS!!!!! Where is the freakin orig...even one marked origional WASN'T!!! I get the gist of what it is....... CW
  16. Like Pete and Pong and I said, it is a NON "C" Clip D35. To further mention, what pong said, the D35 will have tapered axle tubes at the drums. Where a D35c will not, it will be the same diameter. Also MOST D35s will have the screw in fill plug. (Like yours does) Where the D35c will be a rubber push in jobber. (This is not 100%) A D35c (What you wrote) is the newer axle with "C" Clips. Although the "C" doesnt stand for "C" clips it stands for CUSTOM. Started in XJ//MJ's about 1990. A D35 is a non "C" Clip axle. Ended in XJ/MJs about 1990. Its a slightly preferred axle if you have to have a 35. Arguable slightly stronger. CW
  17. Glad you found it!!! CW
  18. IIRC, There is a 60" 5 lug D60 out there. I think its was form a J truck...cannot remember for sure. But I have had my hands on it some years back..... I'll have to see if I can locate pics and specs. CW
  19. I have them, I wheel them, I have no problems. I do drag them on rocks more than I really like, but I haven't gotten hung up on them, yet. Jeepco dosen't have them, dosen't wheel them and on this topic, dosen't know what he is talking about. ;) Not meant as a flame, but if you want...I'll dance. :cheers: This has been BEAT TO DEATH. Rob is spot on, get the long arms if your budget allows other wise the DBs are just fine. CW
  20. Its a D35. CW
  21. FACTORY Cheby shackles for many years are IDENTICLE in legnth to manche shackles. But MUCH beefier!!! Approx 5" eye to eye. Drop shackles for chebys will lift the manche as the cheby uses the shackle oposit to how it is in the manche. CW
  22. Mercury switch. Years ago no one knew it was a hazard, I used to play with the stuff when I was in school!! It will clean the crap out of a penny!!!! CW
  23. You could find it with an internet search on bolt torque specs. But I wouldnt worry about specfic torque on these. Tighten thm up good, not crazy tight. Then after a couple hundred miles they will streach requiring re tightening anyhow. Its WAY more important you recheck them after a couple hundred miles than to worry about proper torque.... CW
  24. CWLONGSHOT

    Jeff

    :cry: :cry: :eek: ???????????????
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