CWLONGSHOT

Got a boat?? It'll make a hell of an anchor!!! :D Seriously, its a hell of an axle, but one hell-of a HUGE one at that!!! They can be had cheap and are plentiful. Don't even think of it unless your gonna run 37" + tires...that pumpkin will drag on EVERYTHING!!! Now the 60 front... I would grab that! These are in demand and if you can get it cheap....you may be able to get some really good coin in a resale!!! My 2cents... CW

You will need TWO of these.. Image Not Found for every ONE of these... Image Not Found Looks like this mounted: OH and BTW, EVERYTHING is breakable!! Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found CW

I still do not understand..... Your talking about a wire, right? Not a hose??? Are you talking about the wire going into the brown piece at the bottom, just right of center, of the picture I posted? This is the part that tells your gage how much fuel is in our tank. I guess you could call it a sender... It may be only a factory part. As long as the voltage range is the same and the float was longenough to get adjusted properly...its likely that another makers unit would work... CW

I have commented to you on this before. I think you know I also have the JCR steering on both my wheeling jeeps. Its perfect!! I did bend up a TRE with it though!!!! :eek: :eek: It was a faulty part and it was made from a supplier that they no longer use. What you and your brother need is the spacers from a "J" series truck. You use them in place of the grease boots on top of the TRE's. They eliminate the twist/flex that is a problem with this steering setup. The CRAPPY poly spacers are a direct result of MY INFORMING them that this FACTORY part exists!! They chose to make there own pieces, but they don't work for very long. You need to get the factory pieces. I will give you the PN's if you want to order them yourself locally. In case you didnt hear me...GET THE JCR SETUP!!! ;) :D CW

If your only gonna have one...get a 30 footer. I carry at least two one 20 and one 30 footer... Get yourself a couple "D" Rings while your at it.... I also have a couple tree savers as well as a couple "D" Rings. But I have a winch, that extra stuff is not really needed unless you have a winch as well... CW

Are you refering to the float thats attached to the cage that holds the pump itself? On my '89, there where two possible pumps offered. One smaller and shorter, the other longer and bigger around. Here is a picture: CW

Glad to hear you got it worked out!!! Mine idles better than ever with the new pump!!! I have kept an eye on my TPS settings, but they have remained very constant since the new Alt/batt and cables!! CW

Twisty, If you remember my post. There are two possible pumps for some years. Napa or the dealership would be good options. I just went to the parts store I always use. The dealer may be able to get the exact pump by referencing your trucks VIN number. Good luck, CW

I second this!!! I have it in my TJ and LOVE IT!!! Here is a clip of mine before install, but after T-case assambly. Excuse the "fun" at the end...just teasing a good friend of mine. ;) CW

SUPER LOOKING TRUCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! How do those X Terrains work for you?? CW

I am running braided YJ front lines from a 4" lift and a 199? Dakota rear line. I have droop to beat the band and no brake line issues front or rear. CW

Could you apply something like a JB weld (Be sure its fuel proof) and build up the area that's cracked. After-all, this doesn't move once installed and if you re-enforce the area so as nothing can move at all, you should not have to worry about vibrations working loose the repair. Just a thought... CW

I would just try to get a replacement. If none where available you could fashion a new one with new tube and a Propane (Only use map) gas torch. Its only soldered together. Maybe if you would post up a pic, so I could see how bad it is, I would have other suggestions. CW

Congratulations !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! CW

So your saying out of the 7-8 you have only ONE was correct?? Kinda proves our point now don't it? :brows: Bottom line, don't trust the factory gauges 100% unless you have checked against known accurate electronics. CW

Here is a video clip took from mine just tonight after the new fuel pump was installed. I happened to also be having a problem with believing my Bat gauge....its reading 9 volts when my meter reads 15volts... i have a HI AMP alt and new oversized lines so I don't believe the gauge... That's my point...done believe it!! We have old trucks. I am going to put in a good aftermarket amp meeter and see what that says. Any how, near the end of this clip, I give you a shot of my dash at idle. mine is a 4.0 W/ 83,000mi original. CW

I have been experiencing some problems for the past couple weeks. In speaking with some friends we narrowed it down to three different possibilities. 1) The "plug" for the CPS. it shouldn't be there, factory requested all dealers remove plug and solder wires. 2) The coil/ignition module. mine had some pretty bad cracks in the epoxy. I swapped it for another I had. I THOUGHT this fixed it...but a couple days ago the problem returned. 3) The fuel pump. Now I KNEW I had somewhat of a problem here as my Fuel rail will not hold pressure for more than a couple hours. Recently it just wouldn't start after sitting overnight. then Wednesday, it stalled when pulling out into traffic and was VERY hard to get started. the next AM, it wouldn't start again. SO, i decided to change out the pump. I figured, it cannot hurt and it will fix my pressure problems anyhow. Here is the OLD assembly: It came out with relative ease. Two of the tabs bent over but where easily bent back. There are two different pumps that COULD have been in my 1989 Comanche. I removed the old pump form its cradle and re-installed the new pump and its fittings: Then Juan put it back in and changed the filter for me: Lastly, here is a video clip of the install and one of the jeep running after the install. enjoy. CW

Thanks for the intro Juan!!! Yup, I have been experiencing some problems for the past couple weeks. In speaking with some friends we narrowed it down to three different possibilities. 1) The "plug" for the CPS. it shouldnt be there, factory requested all dealers remove plug and solder wires. 2) The coil/ignition module. mine had some pretty bad cracks in the epoxy. I swapped it for another I had. I THOUGHT this fixed it...but a couple days ago the porblem returned. 3) The fuel pump. Now I KNEW I had somewhat of a problem here as my Fuel rail will not hold pressure for more than a couple hours. Recently it just wouldnt start after sitting overnight. then Wednesday, it stalled when pulling out into traffic and was VERY hard to get started. the next AM, it wouldnt start again. SO, i decided to change out the pump. I figured, it cannot hurt and it will fix my pressure problems anyhow. Here is the OLD assembly: It came out with realitive ease. Two of the tabs bent over but where easily bent back. There are two different pumps that COULD have been in my 1989 comanche. I removed the old pump form its cradle and re-installed the new pump and its fittings: Then Juan put it back in and changed the filter for me: Lastly, here is a video clip of the install and one of the jeep running after the install. enjoy. CW

For those of you that don't know... My comment "I realize they are swampers, but". Was made because swampers have some stiff sidewalls. So when they are newer, or esp in the rear of a light vehicle like our MJ's they sometimes do not flex or deform even at single digit pressures. Increasing you footprint is an absolute necessity in the sand. Its also just plain smart in all off-road conditions. Everyone should make an effort to do so along with your pre run prep, like disconnecting your sway bar and engaging your hubs or just shifting into 4WD. CW

I gotta say... I realize that your tires are swampers...but they look mighty hard...I mean did you air down at all??? I am from the east coast, we have LOTSA sand. You GOTTA air way down and slow as you can fast as you have to REALLY applies!!! At least you got it out!! Hope the engine damage is minimal!! CW

There are more differences then just the size.... "PS" rated tires NEED the narrower rim like 6 or 7". A "LT" tire will likely be ok on a 8" rim but 7" would be better. See the comonality... the simple answer your looking for is 7 inches. CW

OK, this means you have the adj nuts in the lower ball joint hole. Be sure they are tight against one another. (Becareful not to change there position.) Then be sure there is no grease in the hole or on the tapered stud and you should be fine. CW

Are/where you replacing them? What year? I ask because the early ones have an adjustable seat and you need to check that to be sure its tight and set properly. Later models its the same as any other tapered hole. If so take it back apart and be sure it is tight and DRY. Then reinstall while adding some upward pressure. CW

This came out AFTER I did mine... Guess I should have looked into a copyright huh??? Amazing how simular they look!!! CW

My gate idea can easily be modified so the tire remains in the bed. Just a bit of ingenuity and you will have it!! But I gotta say, its doesnt "hang off" the back very far at all. It also doesn't take one inch of space from my bed. :brows: CW