WahooSteeler

I'll play........not necessarily a true order but probably close. If I didn't own one, Comanche would replace the flat fender. 1. Scrambler......really no explanation needed IMO. That's what I was looking for when I found my MJ. 2. 60's Gladiator.....love the old grille and round headlights 3. 70s Cherokee Chief 4. FC truck....one of a kind 5. Flat fender........old and cool, hard to come by

Burgundy paint with blue/tan interior? Umm........no thanks

Pretty sure this is the guy in NC that has this one and a mint blue one also. He's had them listed for sale for a year or two at @$20k EACH with the "don't lowball me I know what I've got approach". Guess he's finally ready to see what it's really worth. https://carsandbids.com/auctions/9e78W2bd/1988-jeep-comanche-4x4?fbclid=IwAR3QN6wkJ5FbWCw-cLWjqt-R1BNXG-5M5hH0Z_-PjYUfg0LgvpULJFYK7M0

https://barnfinds.com/corvette-engine-swap-1957-jeep-fc170/?fbclid=IwAR2I43r4yJjPJN_xW84bNBuwyPMfNrTcSwkBU3NKbLJmWpbKCsqsMPbdhPA

YouTube, TikTok, Instagram...........sheesh, blows me away the current generation can become millionaires doing the same stupid crap I did when I was in my 20s. Damn I missed my calling!

At least she's alive and not strapped down on the roof!

That's opposite of the normal issue that I seem to always hear about, i.e. the pass door is usually the one with sluggish locks due to voltage drop. Very interesting that you have the problem on the driver side. I have meant to post a write up on doing this. I found it on NAXJA I believe, and the description was abbreviated and geared towards someone who knows a little bit about wiring etc so I struggled a bit until I figured it out. It's actually so easy it almost makes it confusing.......if that even makes sense LOL. If I get to doing the write up I plan on dumbing it down to my level which means anybody can do it.

but these are just the outside panels, so what you see is what you'd get, right?

That's a helluva deal IMO. That one bedside alone is worth that if that's truly all the rust on it. As always......."if you were only closer"!

I did the relay setup for the pass door power locks, so easy and just a great mod. I have thought about doing the same for the passenger power window. Would like to see someone tackle this. That said, wouldn't doing all of Cruiser's tips help keep this and other switches a good bit more reliable/safer? The extra step certainly would make sense for a high draw item such as the HVAC though.

That tire size is basically a 33/12.50 so you'd probably need 5-6" of lift plus a decent amount of offset and I'm pretty sure those stock wheels will not have much offset. Can definitely be done with spacers if you're set on using them.

I think a write up would be great being that MJ tailgates have gotten pretty pricey.......and Pete has all the rest!

Wow! Never looked at the price. Yeah, I'll be sticking with Liquid Wrench and Armstrong to break loose any bolts!

That's cool......very useful

https://jalopnik.com/cool-tool-the-mini-ductor-ii-is-like-taking-a-torch-to-1846340614?utm_campaign=Jalopnik&utm_content=1614189645&utm_medium=SocialMarketing&utm_source=facebook&fbclid=IwAR1TaeHkGN9MWx0XcirwUnRWWlMsvLxL2KgVLY3_MqF6PMOEickMgYUA-B4

I got the Iron Rock double shear back in the fall after death wobble broke a no-name aftermarket one while my son was driving it. Yeah....wow. I suspected the original mounting point of the track bar ball joint to the frame bracket had "wallowed" out so I liked the heavy duty frame bracket of the IRO and that kind of joint vs a ball joint. Definitely feels super solid, no popping sound on lock to lock etc.

Thank you sir! Looking at pics they seem the same and logically you would think so since the tube is the same diameter at both ends.

If doing an EGR delete does anybody know if the Dorman 090-061 plug used on the intake also fits the bung on the Renix manifold? Or what size plug would fit there?

A lot of people don't like the green one mostly because of the 24" rims and also the lime green color. The guy got trashed on FB for the wheels but he was like, hey, I run that look on all my vehicles so who cares! Not a fan of the low-pro wheel look either, but otherwise it's a helluva build with a 4BT, tons, etc. Now the desert brown one.......umm....no.

My manifold needs to be replaced soon, the mounting stud closest to the firewall has sheared off at the nut. Like you, I'm not looking for wild mods or even performance gains. I just want it to be reliable and last a long time, and as a Renix there's not a lot you can do for substantial performance gains and I've already done all the little things i.e. bored throttle body, 746 injectors, later ECM. I picked up an HO manifold like the one in the thread link attached and plan on following this upgrade. I've got a friend I grew up with that runs his family's auto repair shop now and I'll rely on him to tell me if I need to add an EGR bung to the HO downpipe depending on Virginia emission laws. https://comancheclub.com/topic/58493-ho-exhaust-manifold-on-a-renix/

This engine has entered a few conversations and generally is considered too expensive compared to a Mercedes swap etc. I don't have an opinion either way, just posting this article/video from Four Wheeler on their experience with it. Thought it would be worth a watch for many on here. https://www.fourwheeler.com/events/cummins-repower-ua2020-video/?wc_mid=4035:20742&wc_rid=4035:34950555&_wcsid=12CEADA9231090A94F326B305BDD961C484283B0632BAB30

My wipers are fastest when in intermittent mode, so even if it's a downpour I just have them set on the shortest interval. Annoying but the best solution for me so far. And I assume intermittent wipers was not a super common option so I'm glad I have them.

Have you checked the fusible links at the starter relay for no power to fuel pump?

Cool!

I had a very good experience with TriStarr also for the record