WahooSteeler

Which piece? Long door trim, front fender trim just in front of the door, or cab corner trim behind the door?

I thought so too.........$240 for a new tool box and rust free bed. But for only $60 more you got a whole damn truck, much less the fact it was a 92, running, clear title, 4x4, automatic long bed! I'll trade you the tool box and spare bed PLUS $100 for the truck? LOL

Yessir it was!! Thanks again!

Wow! $300..........I would have been all over that. I prefer the long bed, that's what I have now. I had been communicating with the seller of the bed for a few months, just couldn't find time to make the trip up there. Then I found the tool box a little past Winchester and got it for less than 1/2 of new, spotless, not a nick on it. So I was already planning on making the trip to get the tool box and by luck the guy with the bed messaged me that same day and said he was moving and did not want to take it with him. Drove the extra hour and snagged it for $100.

Damn.....I gotta pay attention to FB Marketplace more. I was just up that way 2 Fridays ago myself......picked up a Kobalt black truck box that had only been used for a month before the guy decided he wanted a cap, then in Martinsburg got a rust free bed to salvage patch panels from for my rusted wheel wells. Do you mind saying what you paid for it?

I don't' think so, they look too wide. Also, on the MJ moldings the only pieces that have a sharp angle on them are in front of the door and at the back of the bed. There are 3 different sizes there with sharp angles. That said, I bet you could cut them to size if you have 3 more pieces. The MJ has 5 pieces per side. Pic of mine attached.

Amc, congrats on the addition. Where in VA did you snag that if you don't mind me asking? Don, I thought you also added an external trans cooler in addition to that radiator?

Thanks for posting that Don. Unfortunately my VIN plate is not laid out like any of those in that chart, the closest one is one of the Wrangler samples. Additionally, they don't identify any secondary color codes or body moulding color codes that I am looking for. So this evening with a determined search effort online I found some interesting tidbits. www.Paintscratch.com actually states on their Jeep info page that on two-tone color schemes "Jeep did a poor job of identifying secondary color codes" and that "often they were simply missing"! I persisted though with at least one piece of info I was confident was correct and that is the color of the two-tone flares and lower panel color is referred to as "Argent" (silver/charcoal/pewter etc) as I have seen that in the factory parts manual. Anyhoo, I stumbled across www.uniquecarsandparts.com and went through the color charts for AMC, Jeep and Chrysler for years 87-90. In the 1990 chart, they had a section for "bumpers and flexible fascias" for Jeeps and Eagles and there was Argent Metallic (low gloss), code A4YHAA/39340. This was further supported when I found the same info on www.sherwin-automotive.com . Now to find out if I can get some mixed up and rattle canned for me to redo my flares proper.

Searched for @30mins on here and Google with no clear answer, so I'm taking the (hopefully) easier and faster route LOL. Looking for the paint codes for exterior trim such as flares and lower panels on two-tone trucks such as mine. I know my primary paint is Grenandine Metallic, code BD. But I don't know how to decipher the rest of the VIN plate assuming the codes I need are within the collection of numbers and letters. I believe the color is/was called Argent Gray for the flares, bumper end caps and lower body panels.

If you just need a new pump, there are a couple of them out there that will work but I believe need a little modification to fit properly in the carrier. Do a search in this category to find brand and part #, should be lots of threads as this is a common question. If you need the whole thing rebuilt, there is a company in NY that specializes in this, www.tristarrradiator.com

NAPA seems to keep the same people around in my experience.

While Advance has always had above average turnover in my observation, it seems to be even higher the past year. The store I buy from 300yds from my office has had 3 managers and at least 2 "groups" of counter people in the past 18 months. The counter people definitely are less and less knowledgeable about parts. There's a lot to learn if you are new to the job but if you don't have even the most basic automotive knowledge then things like this happen. How that guy got to be a store manager is beyond me.

Ground terminal at the starter? When this was happening to me I checked all the grounds per Cruiser's tips, but did not check the ground at the starter, so I'll crawl under and check that for added insurance.

MJeff's home grounds.... https://altoona.craigslist.org/ctd/d/1987-jeep-comanche-blue/6683042819.html

Wounded, I had the IDENTICAL symptoms and no-start situation 2 months ago. Replaced the starter relay and thought I was done. I never updated my thread but just like you, a short time later no-start and the same symptoms. Fortunately it was sitting in the driveway. Checked all the grounds AGAIN, all good. More research. Replaced the coil, and while doing so thought for the hell of it I'd disconnect everything on the starter relay while the battery was disconnected and after I popped in the new coil and reconnected everything, BAM....starts right up. No I've definitely got it fixed, right? Nah. Only next time it died on me less than a week later while at the county dump. Tried the long charge with jumper cables, no luck. I was planning on replacing the battery cables anyway and the negative cable was showing some bare wire in places. Replaced the negative cable, no luck. Had to have it towed from the dump. Took it to the shop I use and was now thinking it's got to be the ignition switch. Side note, my key would now also not turn back to the lock position, but that was not the case when the problem first started but the key cylinder is kind of sloppy so I thought maybe it's not pushing the actuator rod firmly on the ignition switch. Anyhoo, the truck sat for over a week before they got around to it and...........it started first try and has started ever since for about a month now. Crazy..... The reason I'm copying your post and picture though is because when I replaced the starter relay I took a pic of the connections on the old relay to make sure I put them back in the same place on the new one. But looking at yours, my black ground wire and green ignition wire on the bottom two posts were/are reversed! I would think this would result in a no-start but is not the case? Needless to say, I'm following this thread closely.

Cruiser, I'm assuming those are hot and cold level markings? Picture won't zoom for me to read.

Yep, I'm ready for one.

Have you searched eBay and Clist for others for sale to see if any are available, and if so, what the average price seems to be? If you can find one on eBay go to the seller's feedback rating and look at items they have sold to see if they have sold FSM's before so you can see actual sales prices and/or if the one that is currently listed is just a "one-off" sale.

Awesome build, keep us posted. I am doing the same with my MJ for my son, but it's a verrry slow process between my lack of skills or tools for the more involved stuff and the time to work on it. Stripped the interior to replace the floor plans and then had to work through some overheating and no-start issues. Meanwhile with no seat belts it's become my DD and he's driving my car!

Dvitha, thanks for the thorough reply!

Dvitha, tons of good info here, following this thread closely. So in your first post you said you like to use "3 core all metal radiators from same year it comes out of". So does this mean you kept them as a closed system instead of converting to open, being that all of your trucks are pre-HO? If so, what is your opinion on staying closed vs changing over to open? I also found the Evans waterless coolant info very interesting. Being that XJ/MJ's are known to run hot, wouldn't this make sense for most people to do being that your experience is extremely positive? The higher cost of the coolant would seem to end up more than paying for itself by lasting 10yrs with fewer hose replacements, not to mention less potential breakdown costs. Thoughts?

From the condition it appears to be in and with such low mileage, IMO it's not overpriced at all.

Why did the PO park it?

The 55's are hugely popular because of the unique front end and bug-eye headlights. Super cool vehicle!