WahooSteeler

Two questions: 1. Is there any way to look up or determine spline count in my D30 & D44 without pulling axles and counting? There is a set of 3.73s on FB Marketplace from a JK that the seller SAYS only had 5k miles on them before he swapped out. The D44 was a 30 spline and the D30 had 27 spline axles. Guy is asking $500 OBO. Good price? 2. Need to change my speedo gear. I have a 231 transfer case, do I need the short shaft gear or long shaft? I'm thinking the short shaft but need confirmation. Yes I could pull the current one to confirm, but it's been 30* in the evenings lately! LOL

Gotchya, and I meant to clarify when I said "needing some work" that it could be you doing the work or paying a shop. Not a ton of engine or trans mods on the 4.0's if you're not going to wheel it. I use mine similarly, i.e. DD for my son and the occasional work truck, and while there are a ton of other "mods", and many of them highly recommended, they are more for reliability and maintenance. Patience will find you one in as good if not better condition than the one you posted, and likely for less. Keep us posted!

After your last epic build, anxiously watching for updates on this too. The door art looks cool......simple but effective IMO, kinda Sandford & Son'ish lol

PT, do you want a "already done" MJ, or are you willing to take one that needs some work and put money in to it and make it what you want? Where are you located? I had mine shipped from Missouri to Virginia 10 years ago for $750.

I remember it on CL too, and I remember most MJ's asking that kind of money because maybe 1 in 25 seems worth anything near that kind of price. I'm with whoever else said this appears to be a flipper looking for a quick buck. If you are willing to spend $9-10k on a Comanche you could find a pretty nice one for $2500 and spend another $7500 and have an amazing truck much better than this one.

If you look at the catalog description, the "older model Jeep" kit is for non c-clip axles and the D44 THROUGH 1988. The "late model Jeep" description says for c-clip 35s, D44s (which has generally been agreed upon never had a c-clip version) and the 8.25 STARTING from 1991 through 2006, hence the different flange bolt pattern. But more importantly check the notes below that say "The years between 1987 and 1991 are the dark years where anything is possible from Jeep®, so check the bolt pattern with the drawing before ordering a kit". That explains that it is possible Don's '90 D44 needed the "early model" plates and GJeep's '89 actually needed the "late model" plates because who knew what they were getting in those crossover years from AMC to Chrysler. Bottom line, look at your flange bolt pattern before you buy if you have an '89 or '90.

G, what year is your 44 axle? Mine is a 1988 factory D44, so I had to get the "early model" Jeep kit,. The "late model" kits I believe had the offset bolt pattern as shown in the attachment from the 2010 Teraflex catalog. Teraflex Disc Brake Kit Guide.pdf

I recall a post earlier today where you were on beer 37.......that leaves 11 beers in the second case. How many are left? LOL

Got a new wi-fi router at Wally World for 1/2 price too. Walked in around 2pm and they were out of stock but went online and they had one at another 20 mins away so bought it and have a week to pick it up.

No such thing as a factory dually MJ. To my knowledge there were 2 aftermarket conversion kits, JC Whitney and can't remember the name of the other one.

To me, it's worth that price as it sits. No idea how it runs, if it runs well, worth that and more. Rarest of the rare of MJs IMO....... If I hadn't put so much money in to mine this year, I might have considered making an offer and having it shipped. Go get it!

Still have my truck Chico, finally getting around to do many of the upgrades and overdue repairs so my 17yr old son can drive it reliably.

Chico!!!!! What's up man??!!!

Thanks AZ!

I have this same issue and it drives me nuts. New belt and idler pulley in the past year, no help even though the bearing on the idler was worn out. It seems that when the engine is reallly warm, like after highway driving, it goes away. When I had a new A/C compressor installed recently, I told the shop to make sure the belt was about another turn on the tensioner from what they would consider normal deflection. The owner who I normally deal with was off that day and the other guy looked at me like I was crazy and said it would shorten the life of the bearings on all the pulleys yada yada yada. I said I know, but just do it. It was chirping before and now it's tight as crap and still chirps. Most things I've read on this seem to lead back to the harmonic balancer so I guess that's next for me.

Bed looks to me to be about the same size of a Brute.......

Thanks for the heads up, got any pics of your setup on the parking brake cables?

Pleasantly surprised with the tow and cargo ratings. I'd be a an interested buyer of a used diesel when it gets under $30k......about 6yrs from now I'm guessing LOL.

The thing under cover behind it is a trailer full of batteries that has to be towed along to power everything. That or a 10,000 watt amp from JC Whitney with a 28% distortion rate running 1/100th of an OHM LOL.

These arrived today, and invoice in box was for less than quoted over phone......no tax! $282.98 including the spacers. You can see the rectangular bolt pattern vs the trapezoid shape pattern for the later model Jeeps. The sticker on the dust shield says F/JE and the invoice says "Ford Rear Disc Brake...." so these are for both Ford and "Early Jeep" models obviously. Part #s are 86311 for left side and 86312 for right side. #86262 is for the pre-load spacers needed.

If this wasn't on the left coast I'd be all over it. Definitely hope somebody on here snags this. https://sandiego.craigslist.org/esd/pts/6746079861.html

I was giving serious consideration to this. It's about 3.5hrs from me so I asked for some pics and any other info earlier this week. Seller finally replied today and said it is probably sold but would get back to me if it fell through. Looks like the cab corner is toast but bedsides look clean, which is what I was interested in.

I posted this truck back in the spring? when it was for sale in Charlottesville Va. It's an '87, went and drove it myself, gave serious thought to buying it for parts or fix and flip. Ran well but was rough in many places. Was nearly rust free, but bed was beat up all over. Bed floor had waves in it, bed rails were dented up a lot which you can still see. Was last for sale for $1000, so current seller probably paid close to that. Not sure why they swapped out front end, when I test drove it I shifted in and out of 4wd with no problems and did not hear anything concerning. Big smash on back left of bed is new as is smashed windshield. Funny how current owner put LED headlights in. I do recall it had the D44, mileage was low 100's. Could make a good trail rig IMO.

Hey, you hooked me up on the guy with the rust free bed so I'm glad I was able to help you along with Don's input.

Just go to fourwheeler.com