WahooSteeler

https://dayton.craigslist.org/cto/d/87-jeep-comanche/6702812867.html

That will work, but those AAL's are the type that really produce a rough ride because they are short with a lot of arch that go near the bottom of the pack vs. a longer leaf with more subtle arch that goes under your main leaf. I mentioned using a main leaf with the eyes cut off from another Comanche, some have also done the same with an XJ main leaf. Skyjacker and Rancho offer longer AAL's for the MJ. Probably a good idea of doing a search in this section for "add a leaf" or "AAL" and read different opinions and feedback. The biggest pro of AAL's is simply bang for your buck. Some owners don't mind the rougher ride, many have reported it was just too harsh. Worst case you try them and don't like them or upgrade to full replacement packs and sell the AAL's to somebody else just wanting a cheap lift. Best price: https://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=31405

You can get 2" pucks for the front and either shackles or an add-a-leaf for the rear. If you are not familiar, there are not many Comanche specific lift shackles but plenty of them for Cherokees, but they are not the same length. That said, you'll get 1/2 of the advertised lift from a XJ Cherokee shackle, i.e. if it says it will lift a Cherokee rear 2", you'll get @1" on a Comanche. That actually should do the trick for leveling it out and giving you more clearance for the 31's. An AAL spring is a cheap, short-term solution but are known to produce a very rough ride over stock. Many guys have grabbed an extra main leaf from a Comanche or S10 and added it to their leaf pack, it's a more contouring fit and rides better. Not sure if you want to go through the trouble of breaking down a spring pack and putting it back together though. If you want a true lift in the back eventually you are best served, IMO, of getting true lift springs as they are still available from a few mfrs. But for now, for less than $100 you could get the pucks and shackles and achieve a small lift and leveling.

Looks awesome

PM sent

Oh yeah..........except Eagle!

Mancheflo, as you've already determined, I'm sure, die-hard MJ fans on here and some interesting personalities to go along with that spirit LOL! Since you are a new member I don't want you to get discouraged by strong opinions that may not fit what you'd like to do with your truck. Just keep asking questions and you'll get plenty of good advice, some incredibly knowledgeable people on here. Even the die-hards will eventually appreciate you building it however you like. Sweet truck, keep us posted with what you do with it!

Pete, I put WJ lower arms on earlier this summer, huge difference, still have uppers to put on. I'm talking about any other bushings on the front end involving steering or suspension.

x3 on don't cut up a 92 in that good of shape! I'd by it from you double what you paid before I'd let it get cut up!

Need to replace the tired worn out bushings on the front end components soon. Opinions on rubber vs polyurethane? Seems like polyurethane would make rough roads, potholes, railroad track crossings etc that much jarring.

I don't have a good pic with them, but Hornbrod runs them also so that will give you a good look at them. I think they look great on MJ's along with Canyons. I've seen them on XJs and WJs too, they were plentiful for awhile because so many TJs got lifted and bigger tires.

These were primarily, if not exclusively, TJ wheels. This is for a spare, so not a big priority. I have a turbine rim for my spare, figured that might do somebody else some good that needs a fourth or fifth for their own matched set. I'm sure eventually I will come across one locally but thought if someone had one laying around I'd grab it and ship it.

https://cosprings.craigslist.org/pts/d/new-jeep-comanche-pick-up/6642561428.html

yup, that's it

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-OEM-Mopar-55195838-Front-Seat-Frame-1984-1994-Jeep-Cherokee-XJ/183278850675?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Looking for 1 Ravine wheel to put my spare on, I have a turbine wheel to trade or sell. Picture to be posted later.......

fyi the seller is a member here

Interesting to note that while the factory manual has a footnote that says "10W-30 is preferred", it also says for temp ranges above 30*F 20w-40 or 20w-50 is suggested/approved. As expected, for temp ranges above 0*F 10w-30 or 10w-40 is recommended.

Thanks Don! If they don't have it anymore, I found that Cruiser has a guide on how to make one, looks fairly easy.

4.0L Renix

Looking for the plastic vacuum line that goes from MAP sensor to throttle body. I believe P/N is 53006226, but of course it's NLA.

Found one somewhat local, but for anybody else looking, 500MJ has one with the hard to find mounting clips. Thanks for messaging me Brent!

75sv1, the guy "salad" is where I saw it originally in another thread and I think he had posted a link to another webpage, as I recall reading the full original report. Might have been on www.bobistheoilguy.com. You can tell on the link you pasted above he is screenshotting the various pieces of info in that thread. Anyhoo, very interesting info for any gear-head. Particularly interesting that even though the Valvoline Premium Blue Extreme has the highest zinc level, it is not recommended for flat tappet engines for other reasons proving that it's not just about high zinc levels. Also that the Walmart MAG1 actually hits a lot of the marks as a conventional oil and I'm sure has a great price. I don't know this "salad" guy's background or qualifications, and I think the info he is providing is clearly from another source's oil analysis data. But, seems like a useful chart for everyone depending on where you live and the climates where you run your 4.0L. This "salad" guy is in Ontario Canada, and T6 may be the best for his motor but not necessarily the best for our members in AZ, TX, AL, VA, CT or wherever! I like 757Manche's idea to have this thread so we can all be better informed as to what can maximize the life of our 30yr old 100-300k+ engines.

Since I can't run 15w with our winters in central VA, I usually run a 5w-30 synthetic and add Rislone additive with ZDDP. That said, I plan on starting to run Rotella T6 5w-40 synthetic based on a really in-depth study of several different oils and the different levels of additives they have, pros and cons of each additive, and which one seemed to make the most sense for the 4.0L. The T6 variant has, IIRC, high levels of zinc also. I'm pretty sure it was a thread here on CC. For Amsoil fans I also came across a high zinc formula they make called Z-Rod in 10w-30 or 20w-50. $13/quart though! I guess if you do 2-3 regular changes per year and only one change with the Amsoil it comes out about the same.

Looks like a duck boat car