WahooSteeler

http://teamcherokee.com/drip-rail-molding-clip-10pc-set-cherokee-comanche-1984-2001/

I drove this truck last weekend. Ran strong, no shimmy or shakes (I got up to @55mph), shifted smooth, 4wd engaged super easy, only 128k. To the naked eye, minimal surface rust on hood and roof. Rear wheel wells did not have any rust or bubbles above the flares, underside of floor pans were clean, frame looked good. Interior was pretty good considering he had the door panels off to replace the door lock cylinders and other parts stuffed in there. NO headliner. Carpet looked good for what I could see, I think it would clean up nice. Laredo package, buckets and center console, tilt, a/c, cargo light, D44 rear. Bed rails were beat up pretty good as was the bed floor, I'm guessing this was a work truck for most of its life due to the low miles and bed condition. Does have the one area on the cab that got the bad bondo job. Overall the body has more straight and clean metal than bad spots though IMO. For someone with some body shop skills they could really make it nice. I've spent the whole week debating whether to buy it, clean it up and flip it, use the money towards getting mine painted. But, reality says I just don't have the time to mess with it. Owner was originally asking $1800 when I came across it 10 days ago, now down to $1300. Super nice guy, bought it to fix up, no time now and can't justify the funds to make it nice since he just bought a house and had his second child. A deal is to be had here. He texted me several times this week to see if I was interested. No question $1000 would buy it but my guess is $700-800 cash in hand might get it also. Dead tags and inspection, title in hand. Throw some Farm Use tags on it and drive it home. Would love to see a CC member scoop this up. I'd charge a minimal finder's fee LOL. https://charlottesville.craigslist.org/cto/d/1987-jeep-comanche-laredo-4x4/6550127573.html

Ummm.......because it IS big! Awesome rig Jerry, impressive work!

Would love to see some pictures of MJs, specifically, running 32x11.50's as I have my eye on a set of BFG MTs in that size. I currently have 31's and like the way they look with the @2.5" of lift I have but would like to go to 3.5" or 4.5" of lift. I've seen plenty of pics with 31's at that height and I think it still looks good but wondering how 32's would look, which I haven't seen too many of. I don't plan on ever going more than 4.5" of lift or springover etc, mainly because I would not want any bigger tire.

No worries on the cover and foam, I can get it recovered. Let me know....definitely would be interested. Thanks

Looking for good condition Comanche headliner backing board. Condition of cover/cloth does not matter as long as board is in good shape. Thanks

https://altoona.craigslist.org/wto/d/bfg-mud-terrain-on-jeep-rims/6549225317.html

Mine are grey from the two-tone maroon & grey paint scheme. I'm getting some rust cleaned up on the lower panels and getting the whole lower section primed black to see how it looks since I think I want to go that color combo when I repaint the truck later. So I need to paint the flares too to give me a complete idea of what the maroon & black look like. It will be somewhat of a temporary job until I get the truck and trim professionally painted, but I also don't want to go through the effort of doing something wrong and they start to peel in 3 months LOL!

Dude, logic and any general knowledge of MJ parts values would agree with you, but there are several items listed for sale so it may or may not be a typo. You never know. Hopefully somebody on here is close by and in need of one and gets lucky. From the looks of it, even if he meant to say $500, it'd be a good buy at $300-350 IMO.

Somebody needs to grab this quick. https://pensacola.craigslist.org/pts/d/jeep-comanche-parts-mj/6561500906.html

Yeah I was familiar with the additive for making it more flexible and also found out there is an pre-treatment just before applying the paint that helps it seep in to the plastic for a better adhesion. Prep is key, as always.

LOL, what, you don't think the driver calculated that he would not only use that tree as a "bump stop" but the eddy would turn him sideways just in time to hit the tree and line him up to drive right out? At least a 51% chance otherwise I don't think he would have tried it!

What are some tips and tricks to painting fender flares since they are plastic/rubber?

Or a Mitsu Montero

Whoa!

Update: took it to a trusted shop shortly after this thread. Owner said if I could let him have it for a couple weeks he'd check several things that could be causing the high temps and just tinker with it himself when they were slow. After a couple of weeks he said it was holding good temps. He had flushed the heater core and rad, said the heater core definitely spit out a lot of crud but rad was surprisingly clean. Picked it up and drove it every day for the last couple of weeks, ran great. Oh, and he only charged me an hour labor. This past Friday drove my daughter to school, stopped back at the house before going in to work and saw coolant leaking on pass side. Popped the hood, bottle cap was loose. Mind you, the bottle and cap are new, like a few hundred miles new. Son had my car, office is 5 mins away, got no choice but to drive it. Temp gets 230ish on the short drive to work. More coolant leaking. Let it cool down, come back out 30 mins later, bottle cap loose again, pressure tank empty. Poor some coolant in, put cap on tight, go back in office. Couple hours later head to the post office and by the shop that just worked on it. He's concerned might be a blown head gasket, says bring it back this week and he'll do some testing. I'm stressed bad, dollar signs dancing in my head, not in a good way of course. New head? New motor? If new motor, switch to HO? Sell it? Yes, that was the depths of despair I was feeling LOL. By Friday afternoon I had even found an 87 w/low miles on Craigslist nearby, texted the guy to go see it Saturday thinking I can swap the motor or worst case sell mine and put my efforts in that one if it runs well. End of the day Friday make the 5 minute drive home and barely make it as she's pushing the red zone, cap already popped. Saturday morning, jump on CClub and spent a good few hours searching head gasket threads. I see in a couple different threads if pressure cap keeps popping off or coming loose, try the Volvo expansion cap. Local NAPA closes midday on Saturday, but they have it at Advance....$9. That sucker goes on tight! So between yesterday evening and @4 more times today, add some coolant to the bottle, bring it up to temp, shut down, cool off 30mins or so, repeat as the rad is slowly filling back up. Cap is holding, no leaks, no spitting or steaming anywhere. Finally doesn't need anymore coolant added to bottle. Let it run 20+ minutes, temp gauge sitting steady just below 210. Take it for a drive on the highway from one exit to the next, hit all the stop lights on the way back, never budges even to 210. No leaks in the driveway, coolant level right..........all thanks to a $9 Swedish pressure tank cap. Can't stress enough to anybody that has the closed cooling system, get this cap even if you aren't currently having problems. Man am I relieved! Oh, and I did go see and drive that 87. First time I've driven any MJ other than my own. 5 speed manual definitely shows the power of the 4.0L a lot more than my AW4. Truck is a bit rough, but mileage in the low 100s, ran great, still kicking around the idea of grabbing it and hold on to it til I'm 95% confident mine is not just teasing me and getting ready to have more problems.

saveeveryjeep is his screen name on here

Pike, assuming this is your setup, got any pics you can post?

Ok you got my attention, care to expand in detail on this approach? Definitely curious.............

I have an early 2000s S10 bumper on mine. It's a tad narrow so if you wheel your lower bed corners could be exposed a little more than with a stock bumper. Some have commented they don't like the look that it's narrow, but IMO when looking at it from behind it follows the taper of the bed corners and looks pretty good.

Flux capacitor?

Thanks Pete. This seems like a pretty straightforward remove & install, any tips or things to look out for?

Pete, does the other end need to have the same done? Also, as DesertRat asked, is there any other mod needed, i.e. as you have done to the end there or on the buckets? I thought I read on here somewhere if you don't grind down the ends on the axle side they will press against the axle when they are moving in the rubber bushing. Getting ready to do this today or tomorrow so want to get it right the first time!

Damn, based on the title of the topic I clicked on this hoping somebody was going to build a flying 'Manche!