WahooSteeler

The pizza Comanche in there and another one.......absolutely love the first picture, I'd take that Cherokee Chief ALL DAY! http://www.fourwheeler.com/news/1811-vintage-jeeps-of-the-2018-sema-show-mtsema18/?wc_mid=4035:14255&wc_rid=4035:34950555&_wcsid=12CEADA9231090A94F326B305BDD961C71E87F3CAFFD91FC#photo-01

Well then, IF Teraflex will still sell just the backing plates THAT makes the conversion much easier IMO, and can save a few bucks on the other parts either by JY items or decent aftermarket as Tim has said also. I'm guessing though that they will run @$250 for a pair with the parking brake assembly, Crown sells them for XJ D35's for around that price.

Yep. So for redundant clarification, the Teraflex backing plates for a Jeep D44 are TRUE bolt on, i.e. no modification needed for the mounting holes or axle hole?

Don, any particular reason after obtaining the prefabbed Teraflex backing plates that you went with Ford parts from there? Why not Jeep calipers and rotors etc?

Is that a stroked Renix??

Nice.........I saw that bed on Clist too, good pick up. Literally LOL.

It was super clean, no doubt.

Prices can be all over the place depending on where you are and supply. If there are a lot of TJ's and/or Jeepers within an hour of you they're probably out there. I've rarely seen the Ravines less than $200 for a set of 4, usually around $350-400 for a super clean set in my neck of the woods. That said, they often have tires on them that may have some life left in them that you could turn around and resell for maybe $100 if they are in good shape and get some money back. Moabs are still commanding $300+ around here, occasionally some Canyons will pop up and they can be had for <$200.......again, where I am. Comes down to what they're worth to YOU. I run Ravines w/31s and about 2.5" of lift.

Nice!

Way too wide and tall

You're not being a downer at all Jeff, makes logical sense and like you said, if it's producing consistently strong PSI, that's the goal.

Always lots of discussion on here about oil pressure. Curious who is running a high volume/pressure oil pump? Had my RMS replaced recently and since the pan was off the guy I use recommended switching to high volume pump based on the 220k+ miles on the motor. Went ahead with it and so far no issues, definitely a higher PSI at startup, idle and under power. Before I my PSI was within range from what I've learned is "normal" but seemingly on the lower end... 40+ at startup, <20 at idle, just under 40 under power. Now it's around 60, <40, 50.

Ahh, you are correct. There was another one I saw that was 2wd. Even better, and as you said, great price. Worth every penny IMO.

Considering the right rear passenger area is 5x worse than any other area, I'd place my bet on a child seat being in that position and lots of sippy cups and food being thrown on the floor. What did the bench seat look like in that spot?

https://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/cto/d/1988-jeep-comanche/6733956868.html

https://lasvegas.craigslist.org/cto/d/all-original-1990-jeep/6716383802.html

https://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/cto/d/1987-jeep-comanche-laredo-mj/6724420087.html

The 23gal tank is definitely deeper than the 16gal tank, i.e. the FSU is longer. In my recent research of getting a backup FSU for my 23gal tank, I am almost certain (nothing is certain with any JEEP I have learned) that the 18gal and 23gal FSU are interchangeable due to the fact they are the same tank but the 18gal unit has a baffle in it for less capacity. The 16gal FSU is definitely shorter. All that said, the OP has only stated his gauge stops at 1/2 tank, but has not stated if it stalls at or beyond 1/2 tank due to lack of drawing fuel. I have an XJ FSU in mine right now that "not my regular" shop put in to get me going while I got a 23gal FSU rebuilt by TriStarr, which I just got back last week. The XJ unit is too short and does not reach the bottom of the tank, so a little less than 1/2 tank I can "run out" of gas. Looking forward to getting in a rebuilt and hopefully accurate FSU in the next week or two and not having to worry about how much gas I really have LOL!

I used the same recently on mine, not bad at all. What color grey was that? I did black for now to see if I wanted to change up but I like the original grey/Argent color better.

Congrats, looks great! What did you paint the flares with?

Liquid Wrench also makes a dry lube spray

That could be a really hard find. Is the damage something that could be repaired with metal from a short bed? Finneys98XJ has a clean short bed for sale in SW VA. Check the classifieds.

x3 on the TYC motor and cheap(est) alternatives. The motor housing has a hole at the 6 o'clock position for a rubber hose that connects to an opening on the firewall just below the blower housing. The blower motor essentially cools itself by collecting air from the HVAC box and directing back to the blower motor via the small rubber hose. The TYC unit and other cheapies have the hole in the 4 o'clock position and the stock "cooling" hose will not reach from there. Ask me how I know.

If you just replace the bottle, can't stress enough to get the Volvo cap too. Best $8-10 you can spend. I had bought a new bottle w/standard cap from Quadratec and within a few weeks the pressure would loosen the cap and it would spew coolant. Bought the Volvo cap and it hasn't leaked at the bottle since.

There you go DD! Dude, that XJ must not be from Da 'Burgh because my 4yrs living there they throw some serious salt and the pre-icing chemicals that may as well be sulphuric acid it rustifies and eats through electrical connections on vehicles so fast!