WahooSteeler

Lift the hood, how many spark plug wires go to the right side of the engine block? Did the seller not tell you what engine was in it? 2.5L 4.0L

Grommet: 52018823 Vent Valve: J5360058

Awesome..........thanks for the quick reply! I had literally just ordered new rollover vent valves and grommets from Summit and was able to add these to my order. $12!

Re Reviving an old thread since I'm about to order a new tank and don't have confidence my existing bolts will come off easy and be reusable. Paradise, to confirm did you just use J bolts then?

You can buy the plastic clips online for <$20, I think it takes 12 to fully secure the trim. I bought a bag that had 25 in it I think, so plenty of replacements.

Where are you located? Just saw a black dash from an XJ on Craigslist.........Oregon I believe. Black is hard to come by, gotta piece it together from different sources usually. https://corvallis.craigslist.org/pts/d/corvallis-xj-black-dash/6778631474.html

It's based on LTV, or Loan to Value, so it is a function of the appraised value and the loan amount/balance.

Replied

Tried to avoid getting sucked in to this conversation, but alas I have a few suggestions to offer, some just additional comments on points already made: 1. As the Buyer, using a realtor costs you nothing. The seller is paying the listing agency the gross commission and the listing agency splits it with your agent's firm. This was pointed out by others but worth stating again. The seller's listing agreement determines how much gross commission they are paying to the listing brokerage company. A savvy seller will negotiate a reduced commission to the listing brokerage company in the event a buyer is not represented by an agent (realtor), but it is unlikely the seller will "pass on" that savings to you, the buyer. Data has shown over and over that using a realtor produces the most equitable sale for both sides. A good agent is going to do more than just help you negotiate a price. They should be on top of current market values, trends and if this property fits the goals and criteria you have as a first time buyer. 2. Even the most green agent will suggest getting a home inspection. It's the best money you will ever spend even if you decide NOT to buy the house. Despite the property being offered "AS IS", indicating the seller is not willing to make any repairs, the agent can make your offer contingent on the home inspection report being acceptable to you. This is one of your get out of jail free cards that your agent can work in to your offer. They are marketing the property as a "handyman special", but if the inspection report identifies issues that you are not comfortable with having to repair or that will likely be extremely expensive, you can terminate the contract, get your deposit back and walk away. 3. Lots of mention above about mortgage insurance. A possible way to get around that is a "piggyback loan". This was a popular loan product 10-15 yrs ago and lenders in your area may or may not offer them any more. Usually they require excellent credit and liquid assets, almost like you being "self-insured" for part of the loan. Essentially you get a "first mortgage" based on 80% of the value of the home, but also a second mortgage at the same time based on 10-15% of the value of the home. While you will pay a little higher rate for the "second mortgage", the difference in interest cost on such a small loan amount is almost always less than the cost of mortgage insurance for years and years until you have 20% equity built up. That said, depending on what the market value of the property could be after repairs and improvements are made by you, you very well could end up being able to drop mortgage insurance within a few years after purchase. Example: If your loan on the property at purchase is $65k and you make significant repairs and improvements, have your realtor come back and give you a market analysis for what the home may be worth then. If the realtor feels it is worth more than 20-25% over what you owe on your mortgage, you can ask your lender to have it reappraised and likely be able to drop the mortgage insurance. The appraisal will cost a few bucks but, again, worth it to reduce your total mortgage payment. 4. As far as finding an agent/realtor you are comfortable with, nothing better than asking friends and colleagues who might know somebody or somebody that knows somebody. Word of mouth is still the best advertising. Additionally though, you can call the local realtor association and ask them who the top 5-10 brokerage firms were in number of transactions for 2018, and if they will tell you the same for the top 10-20 agents even better. The association cannot/will not promote or refer any one firm or agent though. 5. The listing has been reduced by $13k, or @16%, in only 90 days on the market. I tried to look up the assessed value of the home, but was only able to find public records on the tax assessment on the land. It was noted as a "delinquent account" despite the property tax on the land only being $118. Those two pieces of info indicate a distress sale to me and why it is being sold "as is", i.e. they don't have any money. 6. Patience is key. As mentioned before, the first step you should do is meet with a couple of lenders and find out how much you would qualify for on a loan and what type of loan products may fit your situation best. You may only want to spend 1/2 of what you could be approved for, but you need to know what your buying power is first. You may be willing to buy a fixer-upper like this house, or you may be willing to just buy something for $X more that is "move in ready", give yourself options and choices. Being pre-qualified, or even better pre-APPROVED, will help you know where you stand and help you and your agent negotiate because you are letting the seller know you are serious and ready to buy. Good luck!

I'd like to put my name in the hat for a pair of these after Cruiser please.........

Crickets........

Agreed. The ZJ drag link that you DON'T want is Moog #DS1310.

Chopper, if you decide to replace the drag link also, upon further research I found several posts on different forums that while the ZJ drag link will work, the geometry is apparently a little different and could throw off alignment etc. I found that the Moog #DS1238 is the proper drag link for an MJ/XJ but is a larger diameter than stock and the same thickness as the ZJ unit (Moog #DS1310).

Getting ready to install my rebuilt FSU and the new replacement fuel pump strainer I got that goes on the bottom at the pickup is too wide, a Carter STS17. Fortunately I have 2 old OEM ones but even they are not very snug. Gonna bend the slotted tab over a bit to try to get more pressure on the filter base. I'm concerned it could come off in the tank. Sooo, asking to see if anybody has located an aftermarket model that fits the older pump's smaller outside diameter pickup, everything I've found cross-references to the same one I bought and only fits the newer pumps with a wider outside diameter pickup.

Thanks, mine's an 88 so I'll do the drag link also.

I plan on doing the ZJ steering upgrade soon. In addition to the tie rod, is it recommended to use the ZJ V8 drag link also? Is it beefier and/or an upgrade over stock?

I am sure I speak for all, thanks for the update and prayers for his continued recovery!

Fixed. I think I made sure the gear housing was in the right position and still had no speedo. Left the gear housing bolted in place and removed the speedo cable to make sure it was fully extended and then made sure the cable went in the end of the speedo gear. Problem solved, so I think the gear was pushing the cable in and not connecting. I plan to go to 3.73 gears in the future and that calls for a 33 tooth speedo which is what I took out, so I'm already set for that!

Eagle, I see the numbers but I took out a 33 and am replacing with a 32. It looks like the tooth range is 32-38 so the assumption is it should be fine. That said, I'll have to confirm tomorrow in daylight what setting it is on now but speedo was working with the original(?) 33 tooth.

Doh! Going to check it now.........

That's for an electronic speedo, mine's an 88 with mechanical cable driven speedo, so no adjuster like on your picture.

Not sure I follow Pete.............the plastic housing that holds the gear? I pressed the gear all the way in and spun it to feel if it had tension on the cable going to the speedo. It felt like it did but maybe not............I need to have someone look at the speedo while I spin the gear since it's mechanical..........duh, just thought of that.

Swapped out speedo gears today and now got nothing. I have pulled and reinstalled 3 times to make sure it is seated properly, no luck. Haven't swapped previous one back in yet to see if it still works. NP231/AW4, long shaft speedo gear. Am I missing something?

Merry Christmas and count me in for the extra prayers for Hornbrod Keyav!

Glad to hear the good news.............we're all pulling for him.