WahooSteeler

To me, that's proof it's a scam.

If it seems to good to be true.......it probably is. At that price and the condition it apparently is in, despite no other pictures to support that claim, someone could pay the $4200 and easily flip it for a quick profit of $3k. KBB says in "fair" condition the private party value is $6700.

If I had thought for 2 seconds I would have remembered you had it stripped out and converted to HO, as I followed your progress closely. Duh! Sorry dude, I'll just stick to

Looks great as always! On your A/C, did you replace your evaporator and/or heater core? Going to dig in to my A/C and likely replace everything but those 2 items next spring and curious what problems you have had and what you have done. I ask about those 2 items because, obviously, I prefer not to have to remove my dash. On your RH pwr window motor, it is most likely due to the voltage drop known on the pass window during Renix years. I replaced my motor in the spring and it was only marginally better, and that's even with the worm gear on my old unit being dirty and rusty due to the protective sheath missing. There is a write-up on Cherokeeforum about adding in relays as one solution, and Minuit has good info on switching over to a 91+ harness as another approach. I'd also be curious if the new alternator helps. Again, just like you, I've been considering replacing mine. What's strange is that when I first start up, the pass window will go down reasonably quick but after driving for 15-30 mins they are muuuch slower. The voltage gauge at startup is around 14 and later in the 11-12 range, hence my thinking my alt is tired. I've got a couple more grounds to do from Cruiser's tips but the main ones are done.

Yeah I remember that one posted too!

When you need 3/4 truck to pull your 5th wheel but you've only got a 1/2 ton truck!

There are a few "LT" tires in the 235 size, but anything below size that I've never seen with the LT designation.

Your factory Trac-Lok limited slip diff is a clutch-style design, and likely will need need a replacement pack. Usually less than $100 IIRC, and recommended to replace every 30-50k depending on terrain and usage. If it's hitting the pavement 90% of the time you probably get can more miles between clutch packs. If you are doing a lot of wheeling etc, you'll need to replace more often.

Damn, I'm still looking for a driver's tail, I would have BIN'd that in a heartbeat.

Wow, once those seats are cleaned up they will be amazing! Already are! How many miles was on this little gem?

LOL.......I was interested only because supposedly it already had 4.10s in it. I have a factory D44 w/3.55s and TracLok, plan to go to 4.10s in the future so at that price I was willing to pay shipping and still come out ahead IMO. ghet, not sure of the year but seller said the truck had 106k on it

Is this the one in Lake Worth the seller thought had 4.10s? I have been talking to that guy for 2 days on FB and offered above his asking price to secure it plus pay shipping of course. I asked him to confirm it had 4.10s but never heard back, guess if it has 3.07s that's why LOL! Good for you, looks to be a good low mileage 44!

Looks like a return of the Suzuki X-90! LOL

Congrats! Looks awesome! What size meats you got on there?

IMO, since you want a somewhat "off road truck" look, I'd go with 1.5"-2" puck up front, and "passenger" rated tires in the 235-265 range. You don't "need" any lift to accommodate the bigger tires but sounds like you want a little more of a visual stance to your truck. 265/70/15's are essentially 30/9.5's and while only an inch taller than a 235, it's amazing to me how much different the appearance can be with that extra inch. The key in your case with the 2.5L/4spd is getting the P-metric tires as they are much lighter than LT tires and it seems for your usage that would be fine. You'll save anywhere from @25-35lbs in tire weight with the P-metric tires over light truck tires such as the KO2s. You'd probably add about 40lbs total going from your current 205s, but that should not make any real noticeable difference.....likely. If you have a used tire dealer in your area, you could maybe pick up a set of the larger tires for cheap ($100 around here) and see if you like the look and if it affects performance before you plunk down $400-500 for a new set and don't like it.

Well than 1) should be a free replacement from AutoZone under warranty, and 2) was it a reman unit? Unfortunately reman electrical parts can often be hit or miss.

You could probably run 30x9.5's w/out any trouble if you put a 2 inch puck up front. Maybe the BFG Rugged Trails could be an alternate for the KO2's, may not be as heavy as it's not a true off-road tire but has a good look to it and "sidewall tread" if you're kind of going for that look. Plenty of other choices for tires too........

Yes, they are different sizes and I have always understood it that the larger bushing went to the frame side and the smaller one to the shackle. If you only have 50 miles on them I'm pretty sure that 1/2" will settle once they get some daily use and/or if you put some weight in the bed for a little while to help them settle. May not have to mess with spinning the overload and all that.

How many miles do you have on the General springs? Put any load in the bed on them? Point being, have they had time to settle? Still interesting that the General springs are not centered, although this has been commented on several times. Doesn't the larger bushing of the two ends go to the frame side?

Looks promising https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/929289720898438/

Beautiful and well done MJ. He's been trying to sell it for a few months @$12-13k, surprisingly no takers. I've seen lots of pics on this truck, seems worth every bit of $12k IMO.

The other one looks like it's got a headache rack on it, flatbed??

A lot of work and time involved, great to see you getting close to the finish line. Looking forward to the finished product!