Eagle

Some of the aftermarket "metric ton" springs sit higher than factory ride height, but they shouldn't. That's actually a bug, not a feature (except for people who want a lift, like you). The factory Metric Ton (Tonne) springs did not ride higher than standard springs.

But you have no idea what type of paint was used, so we can't do more than offer guesses. Why don't you try the alcohol test suggested, and report the results to us? One step at a time.

They shouldn't add any lift. They were for load capacity, not lift. Unless your existing springs are badly sagged and you consider getting back to factory height a "lift."

Looks good. Obviously, I need to get busy.

Buy it. Are you certain it's a 5-speed? A 5-speed should have 4.10 gears. There was also a 4-speed manual, and those came with 3.54/3.55 gears.

Don't replace the springs if they don't need to be replaced -- aftermarket springs are always a crap shoot as to whether or not they'll match the factory ride height. Quick check for the front -- measure from the center of the axle/wheel/hub straight up to the bottom edge of the flare. The stock measurement should be 17-1/2 inches. For the rear, I don't know what the corresponding dimension should be for an MJ. I use 21-1/2 inches as a ballpark, but that's not precise. The factory says to measure rear ride height with the gas tank full. Measure from the top of the axle tube up to the underside of the frame rail, inboard of the bump stop. The factory dimension is 8.2 inches for 2WD and 9.2 inches for 4WD -- both dimensions with a tolerance of +/- 1/2 inch.

The first crop. Not this one.

The old broken wire trick will do it every time. Never overlook the simple when diagnosing. Many years ago, my pony car developed a funny skip/stumble. I had just done a tune-up, and the miles were getting up there, so I assumed (bad idea) that it must be something serious. So, I bought a junkyard engine, did a full rebuild, put it into the car -- and I had the same skip/stumble. Okay, it must be carburetor. So I bought a new carburetor and installed that. Still had the same skip/stumble. The problem was the $2 condenser from the tune-up kit I had just installed. Replaced the condenser and all was well. So, basically, I spent over $1,000 because I didn't take the time to diagnose a $2 part.

I've got enough space in my yard for at least ten MJs -- I've had a lot more than that here for a NAXJA-NAC BBQ. It has to be no earlier than mid-June, though -- the front yard is pretty soft and swampy until then. If anyone wants to trek to southern Connecticut, let me know and we'll get something together.

Turning over is the same as cranking -- the engine is being turned by the starter motor. That is NOT "starting." If you dribble a little raw gas into the throttle body, or use starting fluid (ether), will it start and run for a few seconds? Have you checked for a spark at the spark plugs? BTW -- the 2.5L engine is an in-line 4-cylinder, not a V4.

I agree with your recommendations, but the way the OP phrased his post very much suggests that he thinks the original D35 in this MJ was locked. My question stands: What did the statement mean? As to gear ratio, 3.55 is just fine with 30x9.50s. That tire size is basically the same diameter is 235/75-15s, but with slightly wider tread width. 4.10s is overkill with that tire size. I know from first-hand experience that 3.73 gears with 31x10.50-15 tires works out to exactly the same final drive ratio (MPH per 1,000 RPM) as stock tires with 3.55 gears. For the type of driving described by the OP, 4.10s would not be a good choice. I also agree on tread design. Mud tires are designed to throw stuff OUT of the tread. Snow tires are designed to keep snow IN the tread, because snow sticks to snow, improving traction. Mud tires are lousy snow tires.

What does this mean? There was nothing "locking" about the D35 differential in a 1987 Comanche.

Personally, I can't imagine how MJ taillights or brake lights could be too bright. If you're going to try smoking them ... be sure the brake lights still show up on a bright, sunny day when the sun is shining directly on the lenses.

Let's not assume that there will only be ONE get-together. The USA is a big country, and our members are scattered everywhere. I'm sure we could arrange more than one. Might include some wheeling, or it might include just looking at Jeeps, drinking beer, and swapping lies about what great wrenches we all are.

If the front running lights, the brake lights, and the turn signals work, then the multi switch, brake light switch, or headlight switch can't be the problem. It has to be in the wiring to the back, or possibly the sockets (although both going bad at the same time seems unlikely).

Shouldn't that be "6x4"? It's interesting as a demonstration that some people have too much time and money on their hands, but I don't see any practical use for it.

As an experiment, I had one soda blasted. Even blasting with baking soda left the flats that are supposed to be polished so blasted that it's going to need a LOT of polishing to bring them back. If you want the wheels to look original, I would not blast -- with anything. Use stripper to remove the remains of the old clearcoat, polish the flats and rim, then apply new clearcoat.

You have not seen any Comanches with airbags, because the last Comanche was 1992 and Chrysler didn't start using a driver's side airbag in the Cherokee until 1995. The horn button doesn't flex inward. The entire steering post cover moves inward to activate the horn, and pops back out when released. It sounds from your description that you are missing at least a spring, and probably a couple of other parts.

Major body parts ... yes. There were minor changes. For example, the hood latch mechanism changed in 1987. The grille and headlight bezels changed from 1990 to 1991.

And with a welded diff, and a Posi-Lock, if I understand how things work I guess you could also have the option of 3-wheel drive ... engage 4-wheel drive at the transfer case but don't engage the Posi-Lock. Not sure just why anyone might do that, but it would seem to be an option.

That'll do it. Now you know why the Posi-Lock was disconnected.

Looking at how the numbers on the odometer [don't] align, I'm going to guess that it has been turned back.

At one point, the old Gladiator had stainless tow mirrors. Then a close-up of the driver's side had a black mirror, and another shot had no mirror. Lotta fudging in that video. Doesn't matter. That new thingie ain't no Gladiator.

The front seal is in the timing chain cover. It is not necessary to drop the oil pan to replace it. Removing the radiator makes it easier, but is also not necessary. The seal where the driveshaft enters the transmission is very easy to replace. Drop the driveshaft, pull the old seal, tap in the new seal. Rear main seal does require dropping the oil pan but, as already noted by others, first be certain that the leak isn't due to another source.

Just ... Wow! It's nice, but it's not $8,200 nice. The guy is on crack.