Eagle

I agree with your recommendations, but the way the OP phrased his post very much suggests that he thinks the original D35 in this MJ was locked. My question stands: What did the statement mean? As to gear ratio, 3.55 is just fine with 30x9.50s. That tire size is basically the same diameter is 235/75-15s, but with slightly wider tread width. 4.10s is overkill with that tire size. I know from first-hand experience that 3.73 gears with 31x10.50-15 tires works out to exactly the same final drive ratio (MPH per 1,000 RPM) as stock tires with 3.55 gears. For the type of driving described by the OP, 4.10s would not be a good choice. I also agree on tread design. Mud tires are designed to throw stuff OUT of the tread. Snow tires are designed to keep snow IN the tread, because snow sticks to snow, improving traction. Mud tires are lousy snow tires.

What does this mean? There was nothing "locking" about the D35 differential in a 1987 Comanche.

Personally, I can't imagine how MJ taillights or brake lights could be too bright. If you're going to try smoking them ... be sure the brake lights still show up on a bright, sunny day when the sun is shining directly on the lenses.

Let's not assume that there will only be ONE get-together. The USA is a big country, and our members are scattered everywhere. I'm sure we could arrange more than one. Might include some wheeling, or it might include just looking at Jeeps, drinking beer, and swapping lies about what great wrenches we all are.

If the front running lights, the brake lights, and the turn signals work, then the multi switch, brake light switch, or headlight switch can't be the problem. It has to be in the wiring to the back, or possibly the sockets (although both going bad at the same time seems unlikely).

Shouldn't that be "6x4"? It's interesting as a demonstration that some people have too much time and money on their hands, but I don't see any practical use for it.

As an experiment, I had one soda blasted. Even blasting with baking soda left the flats that are supposed to be polished so blasted that it's going to need a LOT of polishing to bring them back. If you want the wheels to look original, I would not blast -- with anything. Use stripper to remove the remains of the old clearcoat, polish the flats and rim, then apply new clearcoat.

You have not seen any Comanches with airbags, because the last Comanche was 1992 and Chrysler didn't start using a driver's side airbag in the Cherokee until 1995. The horn button doesn't flex inward. The entire steering post cover moves inward to activate the horn, and pops back out when released. It sounds from your description that you are missing at least a spring, and probably a couple of other parts.

Major body parts ... yes. There were minor changes. For example, the hood latch mechanism changed in 1987. The grille and headlight bezels changed from 1990 to 1991.

And with a welded diff, and a Posi-Lock, if I understand how things work I guess you could also have the option of 3-wheel drive ... engage 4-wheel drive at the transfer case but don't engage the Posi-Lock. Not sure just why anyone might do that, but it would seem to be an option.

That'll do it. Now you know why the Posi-Lock was disconnected.

Looking at how the numbers on the odometer [don't] align, I'm going to guess that it has been turned back.

At one point, the old Gladiator had stainless tow mirrors. Then a close-up of the driver's side had a black mirror, and another shot had no mirror. Lotta fudging in that video. Doesn't matter. That new thingie ain't no Gladiator.

The front seal is in the timing chain cover. It is not necessary to drop the oil pan to replace it. Removing the radiator makes it easier, but is also not necessary. The seal where the driveshaft enters the transmission is very easy to replace. Drop the driveshaft, pull the old seal, tap in the new seal. Rear main seal does require dropping the oil pan but, as already noted by others, first be certain that the leak isn't due to another source.

Just ... Wow! It's nice, but it's not $8,200 nice. The guy is on crack.

FSM troubleshooting for gas gauge: Ignition in RUN position Disconnect C139 ... Needle should go to F(ull). If not ... Connect C139. Place ohmmeter on C203. Resistance should indicate between 0 and 88 ohms. (0 if tank is empty, 88 if tank is full.) C139 is the connector at the back of the vehicle, where the pigtails from the fuel pump and sender connect. C203 is where the sensors plug into the cluster. The feed for the fuel gauge is the tan wire.

Do they use salt on the roads in Idaho? The condition of the floors, rocker panels, cab corners, and the rear quarters above the flares makes a YUUUGE difference in value.

The only Wrangler I would be tempted by these days is an LJ, 2-door Unlimited. But the caution about the frame is very accurate. I have a friend who owns a late TJ. His frame cracked last summer while he was just driving it home from work. He spent several weeks and quite a few $$$ welding in a frame reinforcement kit over the rear wheels.

Here's where we part company. IMHO, it's definitely a giant step in the wrong direction.

Once again ... please identify the year(s) for which your diagram applies.

Gents, I think it would help tremendously to identify those diagrams by year. I'm not certain, but I suspect there may be differences between Renix and HO versions.

I find it fascinating that AMC printed a FSM for a 94-95 Comanche in 1985. They must have really been planning ahead.

And the 82-91 Wagoneers don't use the same wheel bolt pattern as the XJ/MJ.

And that was the Chrysler 360, not the AMC 360. I would much prefer the AMC 360.

Thanks, Pete. Still no internet at home. Checking in when I can.