Eagle

I wouldn't design different layouts. Make them as a blank panel and let the buyers make their own holes.

The least labor intensive option available (which is pretty redneck) would be to drop the pan and pull the head, remove the pistons, re-hone the bores, put new rings on the pistons and new rod and main bearings, and slap the head back on it. A friend of mine has a Wrangler 2.5L that blew a piston last year (he plows snow with it, and may have worked it a bit too hard). He bought a set of pistons, put rings on them with new rod bearings, didn't touch the main bearings, and buttoned it up. Runs better than it ever did.

Default mode for the Renix ECU in open loop mode is rich, not lean.

The only aftermarket exhaust I have ever heard that sounded good behind an in-line 6-cylinder engine is a Banks. The problem is, Banks is hyper-focused on maximizing flow, so they use a 2-1/2" system and that reduces low-end torque in favor of more flow in an RPM range that 99.9% of Jeeps will never, EVER see. I'm happy with the OEM exhaust but, if I were to go looking for aftermarket, I think I'd start (and end) with Gibson. https://gibsonperformance.com/p-27232-jeep-exhaust-systems.html

The Peugeot BA 10/5 transmission was introduced in the 1987 model year, behind the 4.0L engine. It was not offered in the 1986 model year. Tranny is almost certainly an AX-5. If not that, it would be a T5, but I don't think AMC/Jeep was still using the T5 as an alternate OEM tranny in 1986.

That shop's price for doing a 4.0L swap seems incredibly excessive even if their price includes completely rebuilding the 4.0L engine. But that wasn't your question. The Comanche came out in 1986, with throttle body injection. But AMC Jeep used the exact same engine in the Cherokee in the 1984 and 1985 model years with a carburetor. It was a crappy carburetor, to be sure, but it was a carburetor so you should be able to source an intake manifold from a junkyard. The question is, what carburetor would you use? Some years ago, a lot of Cherokee 2.5L owners seemed to like a Weber carburetor, but I don't recall the exact model.

That truck looks too good to part out. What does the other side look like?

Lowe's or Home Depot. https://www.lowes.com/search?searchTerm=truck+box

Interesting, and I suppose better than nothing ... but basically a lie. There is no 1984-1993 Cherokee factory service manual. That's a scan of the Motor Manual, which is (or was) an independent, aftermarket publisher of service manuals, similar to Chilton's. I used to buy a new Motor Manual every other year back in my AMC days, but they became increasingly expensive while becoming increasingly less accurate in their information, so I finally had to give up. The 1997 FSM does, however, appear to be a scan of an actual factory manual. For the benefit of Comanchejeepgal, go to that link and download the 1988-1990 parts catalog. There are few differences between a 1987 and a 1988 Comanche, and looking through some of the parts listings it appears that this catalog covers 1987, despite the title.

37,009 KB uncompressed, 29,014 KB compressed. Ah, but that would require having a Google account. Google is part of the evil empire, and I choose not to participate. I don't need them keeping track of everything I do online.

I didn't try compressed, I was too tired to think of that. I'll see if I can remember how to use 7-Zip. As to Google Drive -- first, I don't even know what that is so I obviously don't know how to use it. Second, the publication is, I believe, copyrighted, and I don't think I care to tempt fate by putting a copyrighted publication out there for the world to see. [Edit] No joy. The compressed file is still to large to send as an e-mail attachment.

I don't understand the question. If you're looking to reduce the spacer from one inch to a half inch, why would you need longer studs?

Cooling requires air movement through the radiator. The condition you describe (heating up when stopped, colling down when moving) usually indicates that the viscous fan clutch isn't doing its job and turning the fan fast enough to move the amount of air needed for cooling when the vehicle isn't moving. Since you have triple electric fans, I assume you don't have a mechanical fan with (or without) a viscous clutch. But ... The MJ radiator is only wide enough for two fans of the stock size, so if you have three they must be smaller. How many normally run at the same time? Have you verified that they're working? The symptoms suggest that your fans aren't moving the air through the radiator.

Can't send parts manual. File is too big -- I tried two different e-mail services.

I think I can send you a PDF of the parts manual. There's a link on this site -- somewhere -- to the 1988 electrical manual. There are very few changes from '87 to '88, so that should take care of 95% of your electrical needs. I'm afraid I can't help with the service manual, though.

No.

See my post above, from February 10.

If the gauge is good and a mechanical (manual) gauge shows no pressure, the sender isn't the problem. Drop the pan and replace the oil pump. Double check your work from when you were in there before -- be sure there isn't a spun bearing.

Heh, heh ... The grille is upside down. That is a VERY clean Comanche. I'm envious. They think it's "amazing" that the BA 10/5 transmission is still working after 107,000 miles? My '88 XJ is at 287,000+ with the original BA 10/5, and no "crunchiness."

I would agree with those who suggest just buying a different vehicle ... if this was an XJ, of which there are a lot around. But this is an MJ, it was in pristine condition before the ouchie, and there just aren't that many MJs around. To me it seems almost a sacrilege to scrap such a nice truck when it can be repaired. Cab tweaked? I doubt it. The windshield isn't even cracked -- how badly tweaked could it be? My 2000 XJ was hit almost that badly in the right front corner a couple of years ago. It was repaired, and by looking at it (or driving it) you can't tell that anything ever happened. I think this truck is worth repairing. The key is to investigate the most cost effective way to accomplish that. I think welding in a replacement subframe "ear" is the preferred route, rather than trying to straighten the pretzel. Jeep Driver's suggestions on making the body shop's work easier by doing as much prep and removal as you can have a lot of merit.

What are you saying is the one on the bottom -- the one you kept, or the one you removed? You need to plug the outlet on the forward bottom of the distribution block. The line to the rear flex hose comes off the "nose" of the distribution block. If you can't find a plug for the one on the bottom, buy the shortest 1/2-20 (SAE fine thread) bolt you can find and cut it down in length.

Apparently this beast was constructed on the chassis of a U.S. military Oshkosh 1075 multi-load vehicle platform. But that's a cab forward chassis, so this involved more than a bit of custom engineering. I want to know what the front clip is from. It looks like a 1940s or 1950s Diamond T or Reo nose. 1947 Diamond T:

If you removed the rear proportioning valve but you didn't change anything in the front -- it can't work. You have to remove the bypass line from the front and connect the remaining line directly to the flex hose at the rear axle.

or ... some people have more money than common sense. https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-6760511/Abu-Dhabi-Sheikh-builds-incredible-ten-wheeled-vehicle-military-truck-Jeep.html

If anyone wants to see a pair of similar Jeeps in action, the old television series The Rat Patrol is available on Youtube.