Eagle

The factory parts manual only shows 60, 85, and 100 amps. I think anything larger than that is an interference fit (i.e. won't physically fit the space). I don't remember the specifics but when I had the alternator for my '87 rebuilt, the guy initially said he could modify it for higher output, then he said the higher output parts needed a larger housing and he couldn't do the upgrade.

Years ago I used to hear good things about a company called (IIRC) West Texas Offroad for steering gear. Haven't heard anything of or about them for quite awhile, though. Their web site is active, but it seems to suggest that they specialize in hydraulic assisted steering -- which is massive overkill for 97% of our MJs. But you could call and ask about a plain vanilla steering box. https://www.westtexasoffroad.com/ When I needed a box for the 2001 XJ, I went to a salvage yard and bought a low-mileage ZJ box. That was cheaper than a rebuilt, and probably better.

My computer can't open your image, so I'll assume that FiatSlug is correct.

Those add-on gauges look pretty nice. If it were mine, I'd do the cluster swap AND keep the aftermarket gauges. Yes, it's redundant, but they're already there, so use the redundancy as a reliability check. As long as they both read about the same, you're good to go. If one of them suddenly starts to act funky, then you investigate why.

How clean and smooth is the nose of the driveshaft yoke that fits into that seal? If there's any rust or pitting, the seal won't be able to make a good seal. Also, if you replace the seal, wipe some oil or ATF around the lip of the seal and on the yoke so you're not sliding a dry part into a dry seal.

Some of the guys I used to wheel with had bad experiences with AGR, too. There's another source, that's supposed to be pretty good, if I can remember the name. [Don't hold your breath -- I'm a senior citizen, after all.] Got it: https://www.borgeson.com/xcart/home.php They also make steering input shafts, if you need one of those.

The difference is that the 4WD transmission has the output end set up to have a transfer case attached to it. The 2WD transmission has a long tailshaft with a splined end that accepts the front yoke of the driveshaft directly. It's easier to swap the transmissions than it would be to try to take the 2WD transmission apart in the vehicle and reassemble it as a 4WD tranny.

Correct. It's an internally regulated Delco alternator. Whatever you do, DON'T solder any wires to it. If you can't find the connector, use individual spade terminals or something.

Basically, drive it. With the radio OFF. If you feel a hesitation / flat spot when you accelerate from, let's say, 45 to 55 in high gear, it's possibly retarded (not enough advance). If you hear pinging under load at low speed, it's too far advanced.

Or if you don't have the box centered when you adjust the over-center lash.

The Jeep steering box is a GM Saginaw unit. There are also two adjustments to take slop out of those boxes, but be sure to read up on the process and to it carefully, because if you do it wrong it can trash the box.

I had to replace the front fenders on my red '88 because the previous owner had cut off the flange where the flares mount, and I got ticketed for tires extending beyond the sheet metal. I used Keystone fenders, which I'm sure are the Chinese ones. They weren't a perfect fit, but not bad. I didn't have to modify them in any way, but the gap where the top rear of the fenders meets the A pillar isn't as tight as factory.

As someone who ticks ALL the boxes for being at high risk for COVID-19, those who don't/won't practice social distancing could kill me without even thinking about it. IMHO we can't be hard enough on the idiots. A few days ago I read an article about the pastor of a church that insisted on holding live services despite the guidance to avoid groups. Sure enough, he caught the virus, and he died. Now his [adult] daughter is telling people not to be stupid. But ... how many of his parishioners were infected because that idiot thought the rules didn't apply to him and his parishioners?

The Comanche doesn't use rack and pinion steering, it uses recirculating ball steering. So you won't find a new or remanufactured rack and pinion for a Comanche. Are you looking for a kit to replace the factory steering with rack and pinion, or do you have a steering problem you're trying to fix? If the issue is just the "loosey goosey" aspect -- have you confirmed that the looseness is in the steering box rather than the tie rod ends, drag link, ball joints, and/or pitman arm?

I have no idea. Finding TDC was not a wasted effort, though. You still need to find TDC and mark it on the damper (it's already marked, of course) and on the block. Your photo shows TDC lining up pretty nicely with a bolt, but I'd go a bit farther and put some bright yellow paint on that bolt, and in the groove on the damper. Or just set the dial to zero and use the degree tape you already glued to the damper.

I forgot about that. Yes, you will need to replace the speedometer drive gear. It is in the transmission tailshaft housing.

This is a common problem. The solution is to replace the lower control arms with LCAs from a Grand Cherokee WJ (1999-2004). They have a bend in them to provide tire clearance on turns. As a side benefit, they are also stronger.

Cool. So with that little toy you don't really need the degree scale on the harmonic damper. That's a new one on me.

Good luck. I pulled up the manual for that gun from the Harbor Fright web site. As usual, it was totally useless. Didn't make any mention of a dial feature. Try YooToob.

Timing should be set with the engine at warm idle speed -- which for that engine I think is around 700 RPM. If you set the timing when it's "idling" at 2000 RPM, the timing will probably be way out of spec..

Diagrams? Did someone say "diagrams"? '87 was mostly the same as '88. https://comancheclub.com/topic/55033-1987-comanche-electrical-troubleshooting-manual-full/

I didn't say the choke is normally open. I said if it has an electric choke, hook it up. Let's go back to basics. The old, mechanical chokes from the 50s and 60s had a bi-metallic coil spring that closed the choke flapper. There was a heat tube up from the exhaust manifold to the choke housing that fed heat from the exhaust up to the choke. As that heat warmed up the spring, it lost tension and allowed the flapper to open as the intake air flowed past it. I don't know specifically how the Weber electric choke works, but those I have seen simply substituted an electric current for the heat tube. The electric current flows through some kind of resistance coil, which generates heat, which then causes the choke flapper spring to lose tension and allow the flapper to open. So if you have an electric choke and you don't have power to it, more than likely the choke is always on (closed).

Which leaf is bent? Please post photos of both of your springs, at the front eyes and at the rear eyes. Stock springs in a SOA conversion should not produce 7 inches of lift. Should be closer to 5-1/2 inches.

Choke should only be on for initial, cold start. Immediately after start it should go to half choke, and then very quickly go to no choke. Some choke might be needed for warm restarts in cold weather. No choke should be needed for warm restarts in hot weather. If your carb has an electric choke -- hook it up.

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