Eagle

I would leave them off. If you decide to put them on, please note that your PhotoChop has the stripe on backwards. The hockey stick blade goes to the back, not on the door.

Don't take it personally. Heck I have three of the durned things. That gives me the right to call 'em ugly in'n I want :redX:

The flares have the part number molded into them, along with an 'R' or an 'L'. They are definitely side-specific.

Yeah, that's the generic Fey step bumper. It's functional, but ugly.

Before you do anything: (1) Are you aware that the MJ has a significant amount of caster angle, and when the front wheels are turned they are SUPPOSED to slant? (2) You didn't say what size tires and wheels you are running. Some combinations rub the lower control arms even with good ball joints.

I haven't tried it, but I have also been thinking a Ranger bumper would look about right.

Mothballs. Lots and lots of mothballs.

:drool: Now, now -- be nice. Remember, Hudson owned NASCAR in the early 50s. They won just about every race they entered.

No, they don't. All Cherokee rear flares are the same, 2-door and 4-door. They are about 3" shorter lengthwise and 2" or so shorter heightwise than Comanche rear flares. I posted a photo of a 2-door Cherokee flare and a Comanche flare back a year or so ago. You can probably find it if you search. Bottom line -- the Comanche rear flares are unique. The ONLY way to use Cherokee rear flares is to weld in a piece of Cherokee rear quarter panel to reduce the size of the wheel arch opening.

I thought the old timers just turned up the wick on the kerosene lamp. ;) That's for headlamps. (There's a reason the technical name is head"lamp"s)

Where have you guys been? My first car was a 1950 Hudson and the dash lights dimmed the same way.

You are wasting money and effort going from 3.08s to 3.55s. I was running 31" tires through 3.73 gears. The overall final drive ratio was exactly the same as stock tires and 3.55 gears. With 32" tires, all you're going to do is get back to approximately the equivalent of your stock 3.08 gearing with stock tires. But ... your tires are much heavier and harder to start turning. You really need at least 4.10 gears, or preferably 4.56s.

Why not measure your own truck, since you have the dimensions of the cap? Conventional wisdom is that older Chevy S-10 caps fit MJs.

Search is your friend: http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... dimensions

Wahoo, buy the conversion kit with the three aerosol cans from Auto Zone for $30 and go for it. My friend the VW (former Jeep) tech tells me has has converted numerous vehicles with those kits, and they work. I'll be doing a couple soon -- my '88 XJ and the '88 MJ. On the XJ I'll go whole-hog and replace the drier. On the MJ I think I'll try it without replacing the drier, and see what happens.

Yes, they do.

Not 100% sure, but I would imagine that you could fix it by removing the factory gauge and inserting an aftermarket guage that will fit in the hole. I believe I have seen it done, but don't remember where right now. That won't work. There's no "hole" -- the factory gauge is screwed to a printed circuit board. To mount an aftermarket gauge you'd have to drill a hole through the circuit board. Not a good solution. Test the gauge. Rough test -- turn on ignition, remove wire from oil pressure sender. Gauge should peg (all the way to the right, IIRC). Then ground the wire directly to the block. The gauge should peg to the opposite extreme (all the way to the left, IIRC). If you have access to some sort of low value potentiometer, the sender range is zero through 88 ohms (0 - 104 for the 91+ models). If you have a potentiometer in that range, you can use it to test the movement of the dial. Or if you have a simple fixed resistor rated somewhere around 40 to 50 ohms, stick that between the wire and the block and the gauge should read approximately mid-scale.

If you have metal tanks, the shop sould be able to re-core your radiator.

ROFLMAO That reminds me of an incident from the dim, dark ages of my youth. I had driven a friend home after basketball practice one cold, dreary winter night, and my car stopped dead in the middle of the road on the way from my buddy's house to my house. This was, of course, eons before the invention of the cell phone, so I hiked back until I found a house with lights on, knocked on the door, and was allowed to call home. My father came over. The car was DEAD. No horn, no lights, no gauges, no turn over -- NADA! We couldn't figure out what was happening, because it had been running just fine, right up until it quit. I was tired, I was cold, I was frustrated. I finally got so mad I hauled off and kicked the left front tire (did I mention I played soccer?). THE LIGHTS CAME ON! Turned the key, the car started, and I drove home. Turns out my helpful little brother did me in. The weekend previous, we had pulled the battery and done some cleaning up in the engine room. L'il bro' reinstalled the battery, and he forgot to tighten the bolt on the frame end of the ground wire. Oops. Lesson learned from making the same mistake too many times: NEVER overlook the simplest, most obvious possibility in the rush to embrace the most expensive possible repair. Hint: Google "Occam's razor."

Happy to see I'm not the only one who likes to poke holes in radiators. You, sir, now have a shot for the IDIOT OF THE MONTH award. Stand proud! :D Not a distinction that I really want, but probably one that I really deserve! Not to worry. There are LOTs of months -- both behind us and ahead of us. Those of us who haven't already qualified are just potential winners in the future ... Back to the basic question -- if you don't know a friendly local radiator shop that will run a quick pressure test on the "new" radiator for you, just fill it with water as already suggested. The key is to figure out some way to both close off the two hose outlets, and to be able to pressurize it. The 10 psi suggested above should do it -- you shouldn't go any higher than 15 psi or you could blow up even a good radiator.

And as i always say: if its for free; its for me. :D Yeah, the software is free -- but somebody has to host it, somewhere.

If I remember correctly, when I replaced the tank in my '87 SWB two (three?) summers ago it cost me $150. I think that's close to wholesale -- my friend who used to be a Jeep service manager got it through the radiator shop he sends all his work to, so he gets wholesale or close to it. Hmmm ... Either my memory is bad, or I over-payed: http://www2.partstrain.com/store/?Ntt=F ... 7003+10857

The FSM says 120 to 150 psi, with a maximum variation between cylinders of 30 psi. The 150 would be for a nearly-new engine, so don't expect to get that

There is a company making a radiator that has both the filler neck and the bung for the aux fan switch. Unfortunately, I don't know who it is. I do know that it is NOT GDI (Go Dan Industries), because that's the brand I bought and the first one that came in did not have a bung. If it did, I would have taken it.

If the yard owner tells you it's okay, then it's okay ... and it's a "that junkyard" thing. Anywhere else it's stealing.