Eagle

I'll give it a try ...

Their printer was running a sale on 'm' and 'e'. Two for the price of one.

Just remember that the wheel cylinders are specific to one side. For the cost, I'd recommend buying both and replacing them.

Just knock the pins out of the hinges and use bolts that are just slightly undersized, and that extend a little below the bottoms of the hinges so you can more easily tap them out. And put disconnect plugs on the wiring from the cab to the doors.

It doesn't matter. The factory metric ton springs didn't ride any higher than the standard springs. As Gogmorgo noted, the FSM gives a ride height for 2WD springs that's 1 inch lower than 4WD springs, but there is no separate specification for metric ton springs.

https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/wheel-cylinder-rear?filterByKeyWord=rear+wheel+cylinder&fromString=search&isIgnoreVehicle=false When you get a new one, take out the bleeder screw and put anti-seize on the threads.

3-1/2 inches is not "a little" in my view -- and they won't settle by nearly that much. This is why I advise people not to buy General springs. Stock replacement springs should ride at stock ride height ... period, full stop.

Maybe no one responded because no one knew the answer. I saw the thread ... how many "I don't know" or "I have no idea" responses would have made you happy? Thanks for the link. I'm not going to delete the thread, because it may help someone else in the future, and that's why we're all here.

What are you hoping to accomplish? How do you plan to use the vehicle, and what size tires do you plan to run?

Mt red '88 MJ Chief has the "3/4" gauge cluster, with gauges but a large gas gauge instead of a tachometer. The previous owner had strapped a 2" Sun tach to the steering column. It worked, but it was too small for my liking -- I use the tachometer much more than I use the speedometer. I replaced the 2" with a 3.x" Sun Super tach. It looked a lot like this one -- and in fact may be the same thing under a different name: https://www.autozone.com/gauges-and-gauge-accessories/tachometer/equus-black-3-3-8in-tachometer-gauge/255933_0_0

Good. Be sure to not tell anyone, so it'll always be your secret.

What year?

Those are both aftermarket sockets, so the previous owner definitely monkeyed with it. What's improper about the way the lights work?

The 2.8L is a 60-degree V6, not 90-degree. The same engine and transmissions were used in the 1984 and 1985 Cherokee, and the 2.5L 4-cylinder continued through the 2000 model year. The question is about transmissions, so all those years are available. Also, in '84 and '85, due to supply shortages, some Cherokees had T4 or T5 transmissions. Those can also be used in the '86 MJ.

The XJ Dana 44 is a real Dana 44. The front Dana 44 used in the TJ Rubicons is a Dana 44 center section with the same tubes and knuckles as the Dana 30 front axles. There's nothing wrong with those axles, but it's not as much of an upgrade as some people think. The ZJ and WJ rear Dana 44s used an aluminum differential housing that's so weak you can't jack the vehicle up using a service station jack under the pumpkin because that causes the tubes to flex and bend the housing. The internal parts don't fully interchange with the internals of a "real" Dana 44. That's the one to avoid at all costs. To be honest, I'd rather have a Dana 35 -- and I have owned both.

Yes, that's true. I was thinking of that awful, aluminum "Dana 44" axle they stuck under the rear of the ZJ V8s.

It will work on a Comanche. I have a set of Comanche springs in my shed that I rebuilt using parts from three different sets of MJ springs. I also did the same thing on a 2001 Cherokee that had a broken #2 leaf.

Duplicate topics merged.

It's a bolt-in swap, but remember that you need EVERYTHING from the donor vehicle, as Liketosmash spelled out. The computer (ECU) for your year is under the dash, above the driver's right foot. You'll also need the wiring harness. Make certain that you don't get rid of the hulk of the donor vehicle until you are certain that you have the swap completed and that it's running properly.

Yes. If you got the transmission and transfer case together, it will bolt right up to your engine. Depending on year, you may need to use a different pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft.

You are MUCH better off just getting a 4WD transmission. Otherwise, you need the 4WD rear housing for the transmission and you need a 4WD tailshaft to replace the 2WD tailshaft and tailshaft housing.

That's hardly a surprise. I suspect part of the problem is that people are so anxious to return to "normal" that reopening means too many people are going to stop practicing social distancing, stop washing their hands, yada yada. The VA hospital where I go for most of my medical care is going to re-open their clinics as on June 1. I hope that's not going to be too soon.

Yes, the parking lights stay on with the headlights. That's the low-intensity filament. Your thread title said the turn signal stays on -- that would be the high-intensity filament. Both parking lights should be on with the headlights, so if the other side doesn't do that -- then it either needs a bulb, or it needs a new socket, too.