Eagle

Mt red '88 MJ Chief has the "3/4" gauge cluster, with gauges but a large gas gauge instead of a tachometer. The previous owner had strapped a 2" Sun tach to the steering column. It worked, but it was too small for my liking -- I use the tachometer much more than I use the speedometer. I replaced the 2" with a 3.x" Sun Super tach. It looked a lot like this one -- and in fact may be the same thing under a different name: https://www.autozone.com/gauges-and-gauge-accessories/tachometer/equus-black-3-3-8in-tachometer-gauge/255933_0_0

Good. Be sure to not tell anyone, so it'll always be your secret.

What year?

Those are both aftermarket sockets, so the previous owner definitely monkeyed with it. What's improper about the way the lights work?

The 2.8L is a 60-degree V6, not 90-degree. The same engine and transmissions were used in the 1984 and 1985 Cherokee, and the 2.5L 4-cylinder continued through the 2000 model year. The question is about transmissions, so all those years are available. Also, in '84 and '85, due to supply shortages, some Cherokees had T4 or T5 transmissions. Those can also be used in the '86 MJ.

The XJ Dana 44 is a real Dana 44. The front Dana 44 used in the TJ Rubicons is a Dana 44 center section with the same tubes and knuckles as the Dana 30 front axles. There's nothing wrong with those axles, but it's not as much of an upgrade as some people think. The ZJ and WJ rear Dana 44s used an aluminum differential housing that's so weak you can't jack the vehicle up using a service station jack under the pumpkin because that causes the tubes to flex and bend the housing. The internal parts don't fully interchange with the internals of a "real" Dana 44. That's the one to avoid at all costs. To be honest, I'd rather have a Dana 35 -- and I have owned both.

Yes, that's true. I was thinking of that awful, aluminum "Dana 44" axle they stuck under the rear of the ZJ V8s.

It will work on a Comanche. I have a set of Comanche springs in my shed that I rebuilt using parts from three different sets of MJ springs. I also did the same thing on a 2001 Cherokee that had a broken #2 leaf.

Duplicate topics merged.

It's a bolt-in swap, but remember that you need EVERYTHING from the donor vehicle, as Liketosmash spelled out. The computer (ECU) for your year is under the dash, above the driver's right foot. You'll also need the wiring harness. Make certain that you don't get rid of the hulk of the donor vehicle until you are certain that you have the swap completed and that it's running properly.

Yes. If you got the transmission and transfer case together, it will bolt right up to your engine. Depending on year, you may need to use a different pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft.

You are MUCH better off just getting a 4WD transmission. Otherwise, you need the 4WD rear housing for the transmission and you need a 4WD tailshaft to replace the 2WD tailshaft and tailshaft housing.

That's hardly a surprise. I suspect part of the problem is that people are so anxious to return to "normal" that reopening means too many people are going to stop practicing social distancing, stop washing their hands, yada yada. The VA hospital where I go for most of my medical care is going to re-open their clinics as on June 1. I hope that's not going to be too soon.

Yes, the parking lights stay on with the headlights. That's the low-intensity filament. Your thread title said the turn signal stays on -- that would be the high-intensity filament. Both parking lights should be on with the headlights, so if the other side doesn't do that -- then it either needs a bulb, or it needs a new socket, too.

The slider you have is aftermarket. The factory unit had a single sliding pane in the center. Your glass guy canNOT cut a flat piece of glass to fit and have it tempered. The factory rear glass is curved, not flat. As others have already stated, the rear window is installed like a windshield, with adhesive. What you refer to as the "seal" is just rubber trim, like on the late model Cherokee windshield. If you can't find a new trim gasket (which you probably can't), my suggestion is to use black RTV sealant. Cut/grind a plastic or metal putty knife into an arched profile, glob on the sealant, and use the custom puttu knife to shave it down to a smooth, slightly domed profile before it sets.

Black is always ground, so one of the others is the parking light filament, the other is the turn signal (bright) filament. Assuming you connected black to black, the worst that should happen if you got the other two reversed is that you'd have a very bright parking light and a very dim turn signal. When something lights up that shouldn't in the lighting circuit, it usually means a bad ground. Your parking light (or turn signal) lights up with the headlights, which suggests that the headlight has a bad ground and is seeking a ground through the parking light. To verify, remove the headlight bulb on that side and try it again -- I'll guess that the parking light won't light up.

Link to the '88 Electrical manual: https://archive.org/details/88FSM/page/n1/mode/2up

I was going to guess about 60/40. I was closer than I expected.

https://www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-suspension/jeep-leaf-spring-accessories/jeep-leaf-spring-bushings-perches/rusty-s-u-bolt-plates-mj-comanche.html

There was never a 7-slot grille on a factory MJ. Jeep got away from the 7 slots, not only with the XJ and MJ but also with several other models over the years. Then Daimler-Chrysler bought AMC but did NOT buy AM General (the makers of the Humvee), and AM General started selling Hummers to the general public with 7 slot grilles. At that point, Daimler-Chrysler/Jeep decided that the 7-slot grille was a Jeep trademark, and they sued AM General. I don't recall the result of the case, but I think Daimler-Chrysler lost. After that, Jeep was suddenly more diligent in making certain that ALL Jeep models had 7-slot grilles -- including the 1997 Cherokee update. So, if you want a Comanche with a 7-slot grille, update to the new header and grille.

Be VERY careful about springs from General Spring. I think it's their springs that most people who have used them reported that the "stock replacement" springs lifted the back of the truck 2" to 3". That's not a proper stock replacement.

https://www.quadratec.com/categories/jeep_lift_kits_suspension/bump_stops/rear-bump-stops

I prefer the look of the 10-slot.

What parts? Some Cherokee parts also fit the Comanche with no modifications. Some fit with modification. And some won't fit a Comanche at all. The list is too long to try to put in a post, so you tell us what you're looking at and we'll try to tell you if it works. ZJ Grand Cherokees don't have a lot that will work in the MJ. In particular, forget about using a ZJ rear axle.