Eagle

It may boost your horsepower but I'd bet the ranch you won't like what it does to your torque.

This is what I picked up Yeah, that's EXACTLY what I was warning you about. The center hole on the wheel is smaller than the center of the hub, so the "wheel mating surface" on the wheel is not seating against the flange of the hub. If you drive it like that, you will have exactly the same problem you had before. Either grind out that center hole or (preferebly) find a Jeep wheel.

Just got a Ford style rim that fit for $25 :D . Just gotta find a full matching set now. Any ideas that are within reason for me? The backspacing on Ford rims is different. Don't buy any more unless you're sure that's what you want. Used steel Jeep rims are cheap -- if you were closer, I've got a yard full of them, looking for homes. Also, if your Ford rim is from a Ranger, look at it very carefully. I think Ranger rims have a smaller center hole than Jeep rims. If that's correct, your new rim probably isn't fully seated on the hub and you're on your way to an instant replay of what happened before.

You can't run what you're proposing. Do the math. Stock backspacing is 5.25". Rims are 7" and on OEM rims a 30x9.50 rubs on the lower control arms. With 15x8s, you will move the centerline of the RIM outboard by 1/2" due to the extra inch of rim width, and another 1/2" due to the reduced backspacing. The tire you want to run is 3" wider than a 30x9.50 ... which means 1.5" wider to each side of the rim. Your choice moved everything out 1" and added 1-1/2" on the inboard side. It'll rub worse than the 30x9.50s on stock rims. You need to get down to around 4" of backspacing.

Problem solved. She wanted a high school diploma. Six years in the slammer should be plenty of time to get her G.E.D.

No. Not on the old ones. Neutral on the transfer case disengages the transmission from the transfer case, but it locks the front and rear drive shafts. If they try to tow it like that with the front wheels on the arms and the rear wheels on the ground -- it'll get interesting in a hurry. For a short tow leave it in 2WD. For a long tow, have them use a flatbed. slightly offtopic, I did a flat-drag with my newest MJ in T-case-Neutral and the trans in park, should I be lookin' for aother AW-4 or am I still cool? No weird noises during the tow? I have an 89 and thats how the FSM and the owners manual say to do it. Tranfer case in neutral and tranny in park That is correct -- for a flat tow with all four wheels on the ground. That is not correct for a tow on a hook.

A high-pinion D30 from a '92 or newer Cherokee with ABS (to get the larger u-joints). Don't go newer than 1999 -- in 2000 they changed to a low-pinion front axle. However, that'll get you the crappy composite brake rotors that warp if you look at 'em cross-eyed. I'd keep what you have and just shim the disconnect to make it full-time.

nope. np207 t-case, if it's selec-trac it's a np228 or np229. the np231 t-case was introduced on cherokees later on, either at the very end of the comanche run or directly afterward. The NP231 was introduced during the 1987 model year. And the OP's signature line specifically says he has a 231. Even if he's replacing a 207, a 21-spline 231 is a bolt-in conversion.

Not with Jeep parts. Pete has reported that the Dodge Dakota 4-cyl pickups used the 2.5L Jeep engine mated to an AX-15 tranny, so you could use that bellhousing if you can find one.

I think that's correct. To be honest, it never occurred to me that anyone would consider a Trac-Lok for serious wheeling. They are intended for street and light, occasional wheeling only.

Okay. I guess you're saying that 150,000 miles is premature, and I should have gotten another 100,000 out of my first one. Whatever.

How can that possibly kill a clutch-pack LSD? With virtually no traction, the clutches aren't subject to enough torque to unlock and the axle acts just like a spool. There's no clutch wear at all. The original Trac-Lok in my '88 XJ lasted about 150,000 miles.

A metric ton (or "tonne," more correctly) is 1000 kilograms. One pound equals 2.2 kilograms, so a metric ton is 2,200 pounds. That makes an MJ with the metric tonne ("Big Ton") package technically a 1-ton pickup. Hard to believe, isn't it? No other compact pickup has ever come close to that.

The actuating rods just snap onto the handle mechanism. You'll see how it works when you start working on it. Lift the handle and look inside the tailgate.

So it seems more unsafe on the streets but what about when wheeling in snow? Help/Hurt? Thanks for the quick response Pete! Pete did not say it was "unsafe" to drive with a locker in snow. He said you may have to adjust your driving habits. I have lived in New England all my life. My first car with a posi rear was bought in 1965. Prior to that, I had encountered a couple of situations when I just could NOT make it home in snow storms. Since then, I only drive cars and MJs with limited slips (which might as well be lockers in snow and ice). Haven't encountered a single instance when I couldn't make it through. I have also, since 1965, had two separate instances (in two separate, front-wheel drive company cars) when I was hopelessly stuck and had to be towed out in one case, dug out with a payloader in the other. Those would not have been problems if I had even rear-wheel drive and a lxcoker, and especially in a 4WD Jeep with a locker or limited slip. My MJ that sees regular use has a TrueTrac limited slip in it. I have NO problems in snow and on ice. I also virtually never have to use 4WD. If I didn't have the limited slip, I'd be in 4WD most of the winter. The stories about how "dangerous" lockers are in snow are old wives' tales. Bottom line -- it makes the difference between getting home in a snow storm, or sitting on the side of the road at the bottom of a hill wishing you had installed one last summer when you were thinking about it.

You're lucky. Water usually destroys the TPS.

I like it. Just plate the "frame" to stiffen it.

Oops. Missed that part. Sorry.

You do not have to drop the front axle to change the bearings. It does help to jack the vehicle up and let the axle droop, for pan clearance. The PITA part is maneuvering the pan off with the oil pump pickup in place. The other issue is getting the pan loose. The factory pretty much glued it on. It's hard to remove without mangling the flange. Best approach is to loosen the bolts but leave them in the hole. Then get something thin but stiff (like a paint scraper but not flexy like a putty knife), get it started, and then just chase it all the way around until you have it loose. Once it's open look at the main bearings. You'll probably be through the bearing material and showing copper. Unless your crank is fubar, replace with stock size bearings. Keep in mind the factory occasionally used cranks that were ground .010 under, so check the codes on the bock near the distributor to see if you need stock or 10-under bearings. If the rod bearings look bad, replace them too. I would expect that they are probably okay. When you button it up again, get the '95+ one-piece pan gasket. It's much easier to work with, and it provides a better seal. And while the bearing caps are off (for obvious reasons, only do one bearing at a time), it would be a good idea to replace the rear main seal while you have everything accessible.

Doesn't the fuel pressure regulator shut down the pump after the initial prime? As to the crank, the START circuit completely bypasses the ballast resistor and provides full 12-volt power to the fuel pump for starting. Once you release the key to the RUN position, it goes back to the normal circuit and routes power through the ballast resistor.

How many miles are on the engine, and do you have any idea how well (or poorly) the previous owner took care of it? Low oil pressure usually means bearings. I know several people from NAXJA who dropped the oil pan and replaced the bearings to get back their disappearing oil pressure. Try the mechanical gauge first. If it confirms the low pressure, don't panic. It means some work, but it doesn't mean you have to start shopping for a $2500 rebuilt engine. What weight oil do you run? Do a change, and throw in Mobil-1 15W50. See if that helps.

Well, if that's enough to make you happy, I'm glad it seems to be working out. But I reiterate -- I don't think they get to choose to "total" your vehicle. And they are "letting" you keep YOUR vehicle? How bloody generous of them. What the blazes esle could they do? They can't steal your truck or cancel your title. If you don't sign off on the settlement -- there isn't a settlement. Too bad the other driver is a friend ... sort of. That insurance company really needs to be taught some manners.

Roger that. The clutches do wear out, and once they wear out it's just another open diff. The time to rebuild it is when it's already out of the vehicle. Last time I checked the rebuild kit was around $65 ... it's probably closer to $80 by now.

Why not just rethread the rod that's there?

The bad news is -- where the heck do you put it? There's no extra space in there at all.