Eagle

Best way to not reduce articulation is to tie it to the diff housing on the vehicle centerline rather than put it on one side (or both sides). I think I recall a fairly detailed discussion of a couple of different designs for this awhile back. I'm not sure just what terms to use, but I'd suggest searching the back posts right in this discussion area. You might have to go back a year or more -- it wasn't yesterday that this was discussed.

His cluster should have the trip odometer. It was the idiot light clusters that didn't.

Idle speed for the 4.0L is 650 RPM. What's this about 3500 RPM "idle"?

You *CAN* drill a new hole in the axle bracket to relocate the track bar. I don't think it's a good idea. You only get one try -- mess up the hole or put it in the wrong place and you're finished. I highly recommend just buying an adjustable track bar.

The two major parts of a clutch are the disc (that's the thin, flat part with the fibrous lining material on it) and the pressure plate. The pressure plate is the larger part with a round metal plate, a housing, a bunch of coil springs, and the fingers to make the plate move in the housing. The release bearing presses the fingers into the pressure plate housing, which pulls the plate away from contact with the disc. We need more info about your truck and exactly what you found, because some years of the Comanche used an external slave (which used an arm to connect to the release bearing) and other years used an internal slave cylinder that is integral with the release bearing.

The '96 XJ would have had an AX-15 if it's a five-speed, and an AW4 if it's an automatic. Those were the only transmissions used that year. The swap is certainly possible. Physically, the 4.0L will drop right into the '90 chassis. You are going from a Renix to a Chrysler injection/ignition system, and from a 4-cylinder to a 6-cylinder, so you will need the complete wiring harness and computer from the XJ.

Did you see Pete's post, above? "Cranking" is turning over -- i.e. the engine revolves when you engage the starter. It sounds like what you're trying to say is that it cranks but doesn't fire. Assuming that's the case, have you tested to see if you have spark?

On the other hand, what's the point of changing a Renix to the newer style filter? The metric filters are readily available everywhere. The two filters are the same size can, so I assume (with no basis for the assumption) that they provide about the same amount of filtration surface area. The only difference is the thread. I can't see any particular reason to make the change.

See if you can find some FRONT TJ coils in the junkyard. The rate will be similar to XJ/MJ springs but they'll ride about 2" lower.

If you can't find a cluster with a factory tach, I used a Sun Super Tach from Auto Zone in my '88 MJ. IIRC it on;y cost $35. I just strapped it to the steering column at about the 10:30 position, so it's easy to see and read and I can still see the big gas gauge behind it. All the ones I found came with a shiny chrome bezel, so before I even installed it I masked out the lens and housing and sprayed the bezel with satin black paint. Looks much better, and isn't blinding when the sub shines from certain angles. Sun also makes a "mini" 2-inch version of the same tach.

Find a cluster from an 87-1/2 thru 90 XJ or MJ, and bolt it in. Replace the temperature sending unit on the back left corner of the head and the oil pressure sending unit with the ones for gauges, and you're done.

Advance adapters makes whatever you need to do a small block conversion in an XJ/MJ. It's a tight fit, and the problem once you get it in there will be cooling. I've seen a few and wheeled with one guy who had one, and overheating was the norm. I guess if you have the engines it might make sense to try using one, but personally I wouldn't do it.

It will cause bump steer, not sure about death wobble though. :agree: Yep -- bump steer. Shouldn't contribute to death wobble. However, with that much lift I would expect the tie rod end on the drag link to wear quickly, and if that's loose it could be a contributing factor. The typical dropped pitman has about 1" of drop -- that's not much compensation for an 11" lift. What's the caster angle?

Most foot-pound torque wrenches aren't accurate in that range. It's worth a few bucks to invest in an inch-pound torque wrench.

IMHO a lot more of the rusted floor syndrome is the result of water leaks accumulating under the carpet than due to corrosion of the floor panel from the outside.

:agree:

Weren't the late model Cherokee base models designated 'SE'? I think this is an example of Chrysler code "recycling."

You need a timing chain. Cloyes makes a good one for the AMC engines.

Reset is not based on how far you drive. It's a number of start / shutoff cycles. I believe it's five, but I'm not sure. On my wife's Cherokee, I used a scan reader to erase the code when I treated the O-ring.

If you can see the chain sagging away from the sprocket from below the crank sprocket, you DEFINITELY need a timing chain. But that's technically not where you measure. I can't find any reference to allowable deflection in the Mopar shop manuals, but Haynes has a paragraph on it. You have to remove the timing cover. The measurement is made midway between the two sprockets. Pull the chain all the way out, then push it all the way in. If the deflection exceeds 1/2" you need a new chain. Personally, I wouldn't accept more than 1/4" of deflection, since I know these engines should go 200,000 miles with NO wear/stretch in the timing chain. If there's significant deflection, either something is wrong or somebody didn't change the oil very often.

7" rims are perfect for 31x10.50s.

Time out. The Mopar hinge repair kits (if they are what I think you are referring to) are for when the body side of the hinge pulls away from the door post. Where is the movement in yours? You may not need a repair kit, you may just need a new hinge pin.

You have it backwards. Apparently you haven't worked on many classic American engines, because I'm 65 years old and I had never encountered a timing chain tensioner until the 2.5L Jeep engine came along. And I siuspect the real reason Jeep used it was that they wanted to use the same timing chain and gears in the 2.5L as in the 4.0L, but the 2.5L has a slightly lower deck height. If the camshaft is proportionally lower in the block, there would be some initial slack in the chain that would beed to be taken up. Plus, the factory chain is a roller type chain. They don't normally wear out. On my '88 XJ I changed the timing set at 150,000 miles or so because I figured it was time. I was wrong. I had assumed the cam gear had nylon teeth like the old AMC V8s. Nope. Both gears are steel. There was NO slop in the original chain. However, since I had the new set ready to go in I installed it ... but I would not hesitate to throw the old parts into a motor for a heap.

Your MJ has an ACC position. It's on the other side of OFF-Locked. Looking at your ignition switch from the passenger seat, when you put the key in the ignition you go clockwise from OFF-Lock to OFF-unlock, to ON, to START. If you push in slightly on the tumbler mechanism, you can also turn the key counterclockwise from OFF-Lock to ACC.

Nothing like going backwards in technology. The ignition system in your '89 replaced that distributor you want to waste good money on.