Eagle

Check your wiring. The test is the same for both gauges. First, with the ignition on (but the engine not running), unplug the wire from the sender. That's an open circuit = infinite resistance. The gauge should peg to the right. Then ground the wire directly to the block or chassis. Be SURE you have a solid ground connection. That's zero ohms. The gauge should now move all the way to the left. If the gauges don't react this way ... you may have a wiring problem. If they do, you probably have either bad sensors or the wrong sensors.

If the wreck is a full-size Wagoneer, I don't think it has a Dana 35. It's much more liekly to be a Dana 44. However, it'll be a 6-bolt lug pattern.

Sorry, but I agree with BLHTAZ and CWLongshot. Since it is entirely possible to drive an XJ or MJ with NO steering stablizer and not have death wobble, it should be obvious that a wimpy stabilizer cannot cause death wobble. Rather than waste money on a band-aid, it's far better to diagnose the real cause and fix that. I would check wheel balance, caster angle, and track bar -- in that order.

I think the J-10 used the same GM 6-bolt pattern as the full-size Cherokee/Wagoneer. What was that, 6x5.0? The J-20 used an 8-bolt pattern -- I don't recall if that was also used on the J-10 but I don't think so.

It certainly would make sense to do the painting now rather than repair one panel, and then paint the rest of the truck later. That Cherokee color scheme isn't really silver, it's more of a platinum (at least the ones I've seen). I like it, but it looks better with the moldings in the platinum area -- and then they trap water and start it rusting behind the trim Catch 22. Whatever color you use on the flares, be sure the shop uses flex additive in the paint. The flares do flex, and without the additive the paint will crack and peel right off.

Yeah, I double-checked the listing on-line. The steel hatch has the strut mounts reversed -- the high one on the hatch and the low one on the body -- but the strut itself is about the same. And if you ever picked up a fiberglass XJ rear hatch, I doubt very much the steel ones are heavier. If anything, I expect they are lighter. But ... it's academic, because it looks like they sold me the correct struts. I just don't think they're right, regardless of the listing. I probably can't return them, but I think I'll get 'em from Auto Zone next time. Or the dealer ...

Over the winter the lift support struts for the hatch on my 88 XJ kind of wimped out on me. Finally got to the point that on cold nights or days they wouldn't hold up the hatch at all. On warm days, they wouldn't lift it but, if I lifted it manually, they would more or less hold it most of the way open. So I just bought a pair of replacement struts from Advance Auto and put them in three days ago. This afternoon I took the trash to the transfer station, went to close the hatch, heard a "SNAP!" -- and the upper end of one strut had popped off the ball stud. Worse, it actually bent the stud. These new struts are a lot stiffer than I remember struts being the last time I replaced them, and they don't use the OEM style of attachment. For now I took them both off and replaced the originals (thank God I forgot to take them to the transfer station with the trash). The hatch works -- but the upper ball stud on the left side is bent and the upper ball stud on the right is loose, and the ball is scored. I want to replace both but ... how do they come out? The one that's loose just spins with I turn it, it doesn't seem to thread into anything. Anybody know how these things work?

Hmmm ... Not exactly the same tire, but I just put a set of Micket Thompson Baja Belteds on the Cherokee, because two of the BFGs developed cracks in the sidewalls. The Baja Belteds seem similar to the Claws, and they very definitely do NOT ride well on the street. They are very loud, rough, and the steering doesn't track very well. I'm running them as an emergency measure, but they will be coming off just as soon as I find replacements. Did I mention that they are LOUD?

Yep - IF the fan works, and IF the temp sensor in the radiator works, and IF the relay works, and IF the wiring is hooked up and IF the connections aren't corroded. On a 20+ year old MJ there are a lot more reasons why the aux fan probably doesn't work than there are reasons to think it might work. The fan didn't work on my '88 when I first got it. I found that the connections where the wiring plug went onto the relay were so badly corroded that one tab of the relay simply didn't exist. I had to cut all the wires, crimp on new female connectors, and attach each wire individually to a new relay.

:agree: Yep. 210 is normal. Needle straight up.

The "style" is also similar to the (choke) Liberty. Personally, I think it's fugly. Anything that makes an XJ look more like a Liberty is, by definition, fugly. Don't know if they still offer them, but Crown used to sell reproductions of the actual XJ European export taillights. Yes, they were different from the American taillights. I always meant to get a pair but I never quite got around to it.

Ummm, getting back to the toolbox ... Looks great.

The oxygen sensor is probably THE single most frequent cause of a "rich-run" emissions fail. It's unlikely a dirty air cleaner could possibly make an engine run that rich. The O2 sensor is supposed to be replaced every 80,000 miles anyway -- it's a maintenance item. It's also a LOT cheaper than that one injector. If the O2 sensor doesn't correct the problem -- be sure you're sitting down when you price that injector.

Second one I've heard of. A friend from upstate picked up a hulk that had broken in the same place. Looks like a good place to inspect carefully, and to consider adding either plating or boxing of the frame at the "hinge."

:agree:

If you have an '88 with the original axle, it's not a c-clip and the axle is located laterally by the position of the bearing on the shaft, and the retainer. If you have excessive "in and out" free play, the bearing wasn't installed correctly on the shaft.

See, the thing is ... if you collect enough statistics and then you sift, sort and stack them enough ... you can make them "say" pretty much anything you want them to say. For example: In the study cited above, it appears the study (or at least the statistics reported here) was limited to attacks resulting in maiming, serious injury, or death. So -- how about statistics involving other dogs and attacks that didn't result in death or serious maiming? I've been bitten by three dogs. Not one of them was a breed typically regarded as dangerous, and the owners were handy to grab the dog before either the dog or I became a statistic. So those attacks, and similar attacks, would not be included in the above report. But they were either isolated instances, or "first signs" of an aggressive dog that put the owners on notice to prevent recurrences. Okay, you can say those weren't serious attacks. But ... perhaps those dogs were prevented from becoming "statistics" because their first attack WAS stopped before it became serious, and the owners were then on notice and took precautions. My family always had dogs when I was a kid. Our first was an almost pure-bred Collie. A real Lassie. Everybody loves Lassie, right? No insurance company worries about Lassie. But we had to keep ours locked up tight any time anyone visited our house, or she'd take a piece out of them. I'm not talking typical Border Collie nip at the heels to herd type stuff, I'm talking serious "Me dog, you dinner" type stuff. After she died, we got a pure-bred German Shepherd. Our insurance company went nuts, and threatened to cancel our homeowners coverage. We kept the dog (and the insurance). She lived eleven years, and never bothered anybody. We never even tied her up -- she was free to roam the neighborhood and say hello to the neighbors, and she did so on a regular, daily routine. But Shepherds had a "rep" as dangerous dogs. A friend who retired out west has two dogs that are half wolf. Everybody knows wold half-breeds can't be trusted, or even domesticated. I guess someone forgot to tell these two rascals, though, because she's had them for years and they never bother anybody. I contend it's all in the training and upbringing.

:agree: If you can't drive it out under it's own power ... it's stuck.

Nothing that affects the gauges is different.

Why? My friend in Greece used a cluster out of an '89 Comanche 4.0L in his '84 Cherokee 2.5L. The only thing he had to do was adjust the potentiometer on the tach. On the '86 cluster, there isn't a potentiometer, so the tach will read correctly only if both engines are 6-cyl or both engines are 4-cyl. The other gauges will be fine, but the speedo cable connection will probably be different.

That's an urban legend and has been proven wrong many, many times. Just because something is law doesn't mean the law is a good law, or makes any sense. I'm old enough that when I was growing up, nobody had heard of "pit bulls" but we heard all those same stories about Rotweilers and Dobermans. Now the focus is pit bulls. Next decade, after all those laws haven't protected anybody from mauling by excessivley inbred Yorkshire Terriers, there will be laws about Yorkies. Kneejerk idiocy, is what laws like that are.

I'm entering this discussion a bit late, but I think JeepcoMJ has it pretty well doagnosed. Just to add a point nobody seems to have yet clarified -- when the throwout (release) bearing is bad, it makes noise ONLY when your foot is on the clutch pedal and the clutch is disengaged. That's because this is the only time the throwout bearing is doing anything -- the rest of the time it's just sitting there. If the tranny is making noises when the vehicle is moving and your foot isn't on the clutch -- it ain't the throwout bearing.

That is correct. After '91 they changed to a radio that had an integral clock display, so the free-standing clock wasn't needed.

:agree: :cheers:

By 1994 I believe Chrysler had settled on shipping them all with 75W140 gear oil. I know that's what came in my wife's 2000 XJ. Correction - According to the 1994 FSM, the standard gear lube was 75W90, and 75W140 synthetic with a trailer hitch. (My wife's has a hitch.)