Eagle

If it's a ZJ and the rear axle looks like a D44 -- run away! It's one of the dreaded aluminum pseudo-D44 axles. They are notoriously weak, possibly the only axle in the known universe that's LESS desirable than the Dana 35. They warp if you just look at 'em funny, and the internals are not standard Dana 44, so it's not easily upgraded even if you wanted to waste money on it.

Nope. If the suction tube is plugged, or if you have excessive blow-by, that small filter will still be an outlet rather than an inlet. Instead of oil in the air cleaner, you'll soak that little filter and then spray oil all over the engine. You have to fix the problem. Otherwise, the catch can is the best band-aid.

Perfectly okay. Remember, these engines date back to an engine that AMC introduced in 1964. Back then we didn't usually have overdrives. As an example, when I was in the Army I drove a 1966 Rambler American. I had a 3-speed manual tranny, 3.08 gears, and who knows what tire size. I put a tach in it. The speed to RPM worked out to exactly 24 MPH per 1000 RPM. That means a mere 60 MPH was a 2500 RPM cruise, and 72 MPH was 3000 RPM. I sold my American when I was sent to Vietnam, but my brother had a 70 Gremlin with the exact same setup and it went well over 300,000 miles with no engine work. IMHO you're good to go.

You won't find a chart, because there are too many variables. Rim width, offset and backspacing make a huge difference, and so does whether or not you extend your bump stops. That, in turn, relates to whether yo want/need a lot of articulation (suspension travel) or just want to fit larger tires for street and "the look." In general, you can easily run 30x9.50/15s on stock rimes with no lift, and most people can run 31x10.50s with no lift. There will be slight rubbing of the inside shoulder of the front tire against the lower control arm on sharp turns, otherwise no problem. And that can be addressed in a couple of ways.

Using an XJ main leaf with the eyes cut off typically adds 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" in an XJ. Given that an MJ has a lot more arch to the springs, I seriously doubt that using XJ main leaves could possibly generate 2" of lift in an MJ. Maybe 1" -- but IMHO I plan to do that in order to do an el cheapo, faux Metric Ton conversion, and I'm not expecting any lift at all. I expect to get about the same ride height, with more load capacity.

As noted, unless you feel like rewiring virtually the entire vehicle, your easiest route is to use the "new" engine but retain all the Renix electronics and injection. Problem is, you want easier starting. I assume that by that you mean you want to eliminate that couple of seconds crank time that all Renix engines require before they fire up. Using an HO block with the Renix electronics won't eliminate that delay -- it's an integral part of the Renix system.

Start with one AAL -- whatever one is the longest. If the MOR is the longest single leaf, start with that. If the cut-off XJ main leaf is the longest, start with that.

FYI, the old style hub-bearing units use tapered bearings and are rebuildable. Quadratec sells (or used to sell) the parts. But ... by the time you've bought both the inner and outer bearings and the seals, you've nearly equaled the cost of a complete new unit bearing. It's just not worth the time and effort involved to save $5 or $10. And it requires a 12-ton hydraulic press to do the job. The newer style hubs are not rebuildable.

Guys, how does oil get from the valve chamber back to the crankcase? A: It drains back by gravity, through oil drainage passages through the head and block. Which means the valve cover chamber is essentially the same atmosphere (certainly the same pressure) as the crankcase. If you have blow-by at the rings, that'll pressurize the crankcase and there's nothing to prevent that pressure from simultaneously pressurizing the valve cover chamber. That's why the CCV ("CrankCase Ventilation") system connects to the valve cover, not down somewhere near the bottom of the block.

Simple answer ... don't use that cap. Go to any parts store and buy a radiator cap for a 1991 or newer Cherokee.

http://www.usmm.org/men_ships.html Copied from the above:

You don't allow any small craft within RPG range. The proverbial "shot across the bow" and all that ... Besides, they don't want to blow the cargo any more than the ship's owners want them to blow the cargo. If the pirates sink the ship or blow up the cargo, there's nothing to ransom, just a bunch of VERY unhappy money men with the wherewithal to apply serious political pressure to the people with the authority to wipe the little schmucks off the face of the planet.

How does using a WJ box create any more space? I see the guy on NAXJA is using a WJ box. I didn't read the entire thread, so I didn't see why. It appears to be the same box, externally, as the XJ/MJ/ZJ/YJ/TJ box. The thing is, he's mounting it on a custom-built sub frame, and he specifically mentions that he set it pretty far back and intends to reverse it so the pitman arm faces forward. I don't see this as offering anything to those who just want to drop in a V8 and not have it over heat.

YIKES! NO!!! :doh: About 13 psi would be about right, IIRC. 25 psi will explode your radiator if it has any weak spots at all.

Yep. Just pull the relay.

That's the one. It's ready to go, but you DO need an overflow catch bottle. First because coolant is toxic and should not be dumped on the ground, and second because the system WILL push coolant out when hot, and you need to provide a way to suck that coolant back in as the system cools down. You can buy catch bottles for under 10 bucks at the parts chains, it isn't a big deal.

I think you just have to find the biggest, thickest (most rows) radiator you can -- and then say a few Hail Marys. Cooling is the major issue when doing a V8 conversion in an XJ or MJ. One of the guys up in Rhode Island had one he bought already converted. I don't remember what it had in it for a radiator. I do remember that it ran okay on the street, but on a trail ride he would have to stop and allow it to cool down about every 15 or 20 minutes. I also think an equivalent size copper radiator will cool better than aluminum. Aluminum is preferred by racers because it's lighter, but copper conducts heat better than aluminum. Which means, if two radiators have equal surface (tube) area and equal fin area -- the copper one will cool better than the aluminum one.

The pirates in the lifeboat didn't understand that they were holding nothing. I guess they don't play Texas Hold'um in Somalia. No hole card, no sleeve card, the other guy had all the aces. They had a lifeboat. not a ship ... so there was no value in either the boat or the cargo. They had ONE hostage -- they couldn't exactly say "Let us go and give us 12 million dollars or we'll kill a hostage every hour." One shot, and they would have been toast anyway. The smart move would have been to surrender and spend the next 20 - 40 years in a nice, clean prison where every day brings three hots and a cot. Oh, well ... life is full of choices. Now their mates on shore are vowing "revenge." I think it's time for all the armies of the world to team up and just march through that stinkin' hole from one end to the other, and clean out the whole mess.

The one I've been using is a Moroso, which I get from Summit Racing. Since I last bought one, though, someone has come out with a nifty one that's specifically designed to replace the Renix XJ bottle. It's been posted here a couple of times or more. Somebody must have it bookmarked.

Was the seller Jeeps Unlimited? If so, I'm surprised, both at the initial refusal to even check when he was told the light wasn't for a Comanche, and secondly by HIS rudeness to those who contacted him in good faith to try to head off a train wreck of a sale.

Yes.

JeepcoMJ is correct. The bolt pattern isn't the issue. The issue is that the ports on the HO heads are higher up, and shaped differently, and the position of the locating dowels is different. You can mate Renix manifolds to an HO head (or vice versa, I guess), but with the turbulence created by the mismatched port shapes I have always wondered if there's any gain at all, or really a new loss. Personally, if I had a Renix (which, in fact, I do) I would use a Renix head, clean up and polish the ports a bit, maybe do a light polish on the combustion chambers, and go with it. One thing to consider, gents: Most of you know that I'm a certified Olde Pharte. I've been playing with these things for a loooong time. It has always been considered accepted knowledge that doing a valve job without also doing the lower end of the motor accelerates and increases blow-by, because the new valve job seals great but the old rings don't. Way back when I was married to my first wife in the early 1970s one of the heads on her car (which I had bought used -- a 1969 AMX 390 4-speed) needed work. We were newly-weds, on a tight budget AND trying to help support her recently-widowed mother, so a complete engine rebuild was out of the question. I pulled the heads, cleaned up the valve seats using a manual cutter (basically just removed old carbon), did some very mild polishing, installed new valve seals, and slapped the heads back on. Oil consumption increased by a factor of about two+. Before the head work it used a quart in maybe 1500 miles. Within a couple of weeks after, we were using a quart in about 750 miles. Which just demonstrates the wisdom of the old adage: "If it ain't broke ... don't fix it." BTW -- I've never heard of a head gasket seeping oil. If it's oil, I would look elsewhere for the source.

You might get some responses if you wait a bit more than 16 minutes before kvetching. Aside from which, this is a Jeep Comanche forum, not a politics or current events forum.

Check the timing. Timing is not adjustable on the 4.0L, but there was an issue with "indexing" the distributor. There was a TSB out that explained how to re-index if it was off, but I don't know if that TSB is even available any longer. I believe it only applied to the Renix years. Did you check the impedence of the plug wires? If they're old, they may be fubar. The original plug wires aren't really "wires." They are a synthetic filament with carbon embedded in the weave for conductivity. Over the years, the wires get bent, twisted and knocked around, and the carbon can get displaced. That leaves gaps, and the spark may have difficulty jumping the gaps. New plug wires are cheap from Auto Zone.

After Chrysler took over, a lot of the uncertainty disappeared. By 1996, there were no more 4-speed manuals, and the axle ration for the 2.5L had been standardized at 4.10 (4.11) for both the 5-speed manual and the automatic for several years.