Eagle

If you have an '88 with the original axle, it's not a c-clip and the axle is located laterally by the position of the bearing on the shaft, and the retainer. If you have excessive "in and out" free play, the bearing wasn't installed correctly on the shaft.

See, the thing is ... if you collect enough statistics and then you sift, sort and stack them enough ... you can make them "say" pretty much anything you want them to say. For example: In the study cited above, it appears the study (or at least the statistics reported here) was limited to attacks resulting in maiming, serious injury, or death. So -- how about statistics involving other dogs and attacks that didn't result in death or serious maiming? I've been bitten by three dogs. Not one of them was a breed typically regarded as dangerous, and the owners were handy to grab the dog before either the dog or I became a statistic. So those attacks, and similar attacks, would not be included in the above report. But they were either isolated instances, or "first signs" of an aggressive dog that put the owners on notice to prevent recurrences. Okay, you can say those weren't serious attacks. But ... perhaps those dogs were prevented from becoming "statistics" because their first attack WAS stopped before it became serious, and the owners were then on notice and took precautions. My family always had dogs when I was a kid. Our first was an almost pure-bred Collie. A real Lassie. Everybody loves Lassie, right? No insurance company worries about Lassie. But we had to keep ours locked up tight any time anyone visited our house, or she'd take a piece out of them. I'm not talking typical Border Collie nip at the heels to herd type stuff, I'm talking serious "Me dog, you dinner" type stuff. After she died, we got a pure-bred German Shepherd. Our insurance company went nuts, and threatened to cancel our homeowners coverage. We kept the dog (and the insurance). She lived eleven years, and never bothered anybody. We never even tied her up -- she was free to roam the neighborhood and say hello to the neighbors, and she did so on a regular, daily routine. But Shepherds had a "rep" as dangerous dogs. A friend who retired out west has two dogs that are half wolf. Everybody knows wold half-breeds can't be trusted, or even domesticated. I guess someone forgot to tell these two rascals, though, because she's had them for years and they never bother anybody. I contend it's all in the training and upbringing.

:agree: If you can't drive it out under it's own power ... it's stuck.

Nothing that affects the gauges is different.

Why? My friend in Greece used a cluster out of an '89 Comanche 4.0L in his '84 Cherokee 2.5L. The only thing he had to do was adjust the potentiometer on the tach. On the '86 cluster, there isn't a potentiometer, so the tach will read correctly only if both engines are 6-cyl or both engines are 4-cyl. The other gauges will be fine, but the speedo cable connection will probably be different.

That's an urban legend and has been proven wrong many, many times. Just because something is law doesn't mean the law is a good law, or makes any sense. I'm old enough that when I was growing up, nobody had heard of "pit bulls" but we heard all those same stories about Rotweilers and Dobermans. Now the focus is pit bulls. Next decade, after all those laws haven't protected anybody from mauling by excessivley inbred Yorkshire Terriers, there will be laws about Yorkies. Kneejerk idiocy, is what laws like that are.

I'm entering this discussion a bit late, but I think JeepcoMJ has it pretty well doagnosed. Just to add a point nobody seems to have yet clarified -- when the throwout (release) bearing is bad, it makes noise ONLY when your foot is on the clutch pedal and the clutch is disengaged. That's because this is the only time the throwout bearing is doing anything -- the rest of the time it's just sitting there. If the tranny is making noises when the vehicle is moving and your foot isn't on the clutch -- it ain't the throwout bearing.

That is correct. After '91 they changed to a radio that had an integral clock display, so the free-standing clock wasn't needed.

:agree: :cheers:

By 1994 I believe Chrysler had settled on shipping them all with 75W140 gear oil. I know that's what came in my wife's 2000 XJ. Correction - According to the 1994 FSM, the standard gear lube was 75W90, and 75W140 synthetic with a trailer hitch. (My wife's has a hitch.)

If it's a ZJ and the rear axle looks like a D44 -- run away! It's one of the dreaded aluminum pseudo-D44 axles. They are notoriously weak, possibly the only axle in the known universe that's LESS desirable than the Dana 35. They warp if you just look at 'em funny, and the internals are not standard Dana 44, so it's not easily upgraded even if you wanted to waste money on it.

Nope. If the suction tube is plugged, or if you have excessive blow-by, that small filter will still be an outlet rather than an inlet. Instead of oil in the air cleaner, you'll soak that little filter and then spray oil all over the engine. You have to fix the problem. Otherwise, the catch can is the best band-aid.

Perfectly okay. Remember, these engines date back to an engine that AMC introduced in 1964. Back then we didn't usually have overdrives. As an example, when I was in the Army I drove a 1966 Rambler American. I had a 3-speed manual tranny, 3.08 gears, and who knows what tire size. I put a tach in it. The speed to RPM worked out to exactly 24 MPH per 1000 RPM. That means a mere 60 MPH was a 2500 RPM cruise, and 72 MPH was 3000 RPM. I sold my American when I was sent to Vietnam, but my brother had a 70 Gremlin with the exact same setup and it went well over 300,000 miles with no engine work. IMHO you're good to go.

You won't find a chart, because there are too many variables. Rim width, offset and backspacing make a huge difference, and so does whether or not you extend your bump stops. That, in turn, relates to whether yo want/need a lot of articulation (suspension travel) or just want to fit larger tires for street and "the look." In general, you can easily run 30x9.50/15s on stock rimes with no lift, and most people can run 31x10.50s with no lift. There will be slight rubbing of the inside shoulder of the front tire against the lower control arm on sharp turns, otherwise no problem. And that can be addressed in a couple of ways.

Using an XJ main leaf with the eyes cut off typically adds 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" in an XJ. Given that an MJ has a lot more arch to the springs, I seriously doubt that using XJ main leaves could possibly generate 2" of lift in an MJ. Maybe 1" -- but IMHO I plan to do that in order to do an el cheapo, faux Metric Ton conversion, and I'm not expecting any lift at all. I expect to get about the same ride height, with more load capacity.

As noted, unless you feel like rewiring virtually the entire vehicle, your easiest route is to use the "new" engine but retain all the Renix electronics and injection. Problem is, you want easier starting. I assume that by that you mean you want to eliminate that couple of seconds crank time that all Renix engines require before they fire up. Using an HO block with the Renix electronics won't eliminate that delay -- it's an integral part of the Renix system.

Start with one AAL -- whatever one is the longest. If the MOR is the longest single leaf, start with that. If the cut-off XJ main leaf is the longest, start with that.

FYI, the old style hub-bearing units use tapered bearings and are rebuildable. Quadratec sells (or used to sell) the parts. But ... by the time you've bought both the inner and outer bearings and the seals, you've nearly equaled the cost of a complete new unit bearing. It's just not worth the time and effort involved to save $5 or $10. And it requires a 12-ton hydraulic press to do the job. The newer style hubs are not rebuildable.

Guys, how does oil get from the valve chamber back to the crankcase? A: It drains back by gravity, through oil drainage passages through the head and block. Which means the valve cover chamber is essentially the same atmosphere (certainly the same pressure) as the crankcase. If you have blow-by at the rings, that'll pressurize the crankcase and there's nothing to prevent that pressure from simultaneously pressurizing the valve cover chamber. That's why the CCV ("CrankCase Ventilation") system connects to the valve cover, not down somewhere near the bottom of the block.

Simple answer ... don't use that cap. Go to any parts store and buy a radiator cap for a 1991 or newer Cherokee.

http://www.usmm.org/men_ships.html Copied from the above:

You don't allow any small craft within RPG range. The proverbial "shot across the bow" and all that ... Besides, they don't want to blow the cargo any more than the ship's owners want them to blow the cargo. If the pirates sink the ship or blow up the cargo, there's nothing to ransom, just a bunch of VERY unhappy money men with the wherewithal to apply serious political pressure to the people with the authority to wipe the little schmucks off the face of the planet.

How does using a WJ box create any more space? I see the guy on NAXJA is using a WJ box. I didn't read the entire thread, so I didn't see why. It appears to be the same box, externally, as the XJ/MJ/ZJ/YJ/TJ box. The thing is, he's mounting it on a custom-built sub frame, and he specifically mentions that he set it pretty far back and intends to reverse it so the pitman arm faces forward. I don't see this as offering anything to those who just want to drop in a V8 and not have it over heat.

YIKES! NO!!! :doh: About 13 psi would be about right, IIRC. 25 psi will explode your radiator if it has any weak spots at all.

Yep. Just pull the relay.