Eagle

JC Whitney sells a glass polishing compound. Depending on how bad it is, white automotive polishing compund (not the red "rubbing" compound) followed by (believe it or not) a good brand of whitening toothpaste may be all you need. Use a felt polishing wheel in an electric drill. If you want to try the polishing compound, get a piece of scrap window glass somewhere and test it on that first, before attacking the truck window.

Will a short bed tank fit a long bed? Not without modifying something. The tank for the SWB chassis was designed to fit the SWB chassis. It is a different size than the tank for the LWB chassis.

The 2.5L was available with a 5-speed, the AX5. Your 4-speed is the AX4. They are identical except that the 5-speed adds a fifth, overdrive, gear. 3.73 isn't enough gear for a 5-speed 2.5L. The factory used 4.10s, and for primarily off-road 4.56 or 4.88 would be better. Changing to an AX5 will not get you a granny first gear. The first four gears are all the same ratio you have now.

All Jeep 4.0L engines were EFI. However, the 4.0L is a direct descendent of the AMC 232/258/4.2L, which was carbureted. If you want a carburetor, pick a nice 2-bbl (or 4-bbl) carb (not the one they used from the factory), get a distributor from a 258 or 4.2L, and go to it.

The 2.5L is all cast iron, and you did specify fully dressed. I'll guess 400 pounds, based on how much trouble I had moving one around the yard.

You can order new ones through the parts chains or any radiator shop. Should cost you around $150. The longbed had two capacities -- you might as well get the large one, since the price will be the same.

My guess is that Mr. Wonderful suddenly decided he isn't happy because he suddenly realized that he may soon be responsible for yet another mouth to feed. And that another child in the house means there will be less attention directed to/at/on him. On the bright side, maybe he'll decide he's REALLY unhappy, and do your sister a favor and bail out. It might seem rough on your sister in the short term, but in the long term it might be much better to unload the baggage now rather than down the road.

As CW wrote, "Remember ... it's a Jeep." Not certain, but my understanding is that they stayed with the 21-spline several years longer with the 2.5L than they did with the 4.0L. With the 4.0L I believe the spline count changed when they went from the BA 10/5 to the AX15, and that was a mid-year 1989 change. There's also an issue, I believe, of two different input shaft lengths. Bottom line is ... it's best to open it up and do a physical comparison.

Keep in mind that the front grommet (and line) is the intake line. If you have oil being pushed out the front and into the air cleaner (or all over the engine), that's an indication that the rear line is clogged and not functioning, or that the engine has excessive blow-by.

So true, so true. Who the heck thinks up the names of some of these (alleged) colors, anyway?

When you first start up, the ECU is pretty much in control and the sensors are not used. When warming up, the engine runs in "open loop" mode, ignoring sensor input and using a pre-mapped fuel curve that's built into the ECU. Once the coolant temperature reaches a certain point (I think it's 165 degrees, not sure) the ECU switches over to "closed loop" mode, in which it reads input from the various sensors and alters the fuel/air delivery accordingly. On my '88 XJ, I can feel a distinct bump or surge when it switches over. It sounds like there's something happening with yours that affects only the open loop mode warm-up cycle. The trick then will be to diagnose what. For lack of any intelligent suggestions, perhaps try running a double dose of injector cleaner through your gas tank and see if the injector might be gummed up and not responding properly in open loop mode.

My 87 MJ with D35 has 1 3/4x10 brakes. My 94 XJ with 8.25" has 1 3/4x10 brakes My buddy's 91 XJ with D35 has 2 1/2x9 brakes. Correct, everything I have seen and herd says XJ's got the 9" rear brakes, the MJ got the 10's. BUT, just remember, this IS A JEEP and anything is possible. The D44 got the 10" wider 2"+ wide brake pads/drums. CW All XJs had 10" rear brakes up through 1989, and possibly through 1990. The 10 x 1-3/4 were GENERALLY used with the D35, and the 10 x 2-1/2 were GENERALLY used with the D44. However, there have been isolated reports of D35s with 10 x 2-1/2" brakes and D44s with 10 x 1-3/4" brakes. The 9 x 2-1/2" rear brakes were never used by AMC. That was one of Chrysler's "improvements."

Does the front hub have a dust cap (like on an older rear wheel drive car's front axles), or an open castle nut? If you remove the tire and rim, does the brake rotor come off and leave a hub/bearing unit, or is the rotor and hub one piece? The early XJs (at least up through 1989) used a conventional front spindle and repackable front wheel bearings, just like a car. Chrysler then changed to using the same hub/bearing unit on the 2WD that ws used on the 4WD. The 2WD version uses a dummy outer stub axle to hold everything together. Assuming this is a 1994 XJ you're asking about (I guessed at that from the list in your signature), it should have a 4WD-type hub/bearing unit. Be sure you get the correct one. There are three versions, depending on year, and they do NOT interchange.

Not with a 2.5L and a 4-speed tranny ... 3.55 gears were standard.

The 1993 Grand Cherokee used the AW4

Oh, [bLEEP]! We spent years fending off this kind of idiocy during the Klintoon administration, had a slight respite during Bush -- and it didn't take to twits long to try again now that they have the White House and a majority.

You're not trying hard enough. IE apparently doesn't share cookies with Firefox ... (hint)

Since the United States Army isn't in the business of giving away ammunition to civilians, there's no way it's "legit." Keep your lips zipped or he could be in a world of hurt.

Excellent choice, IMHO. http://ezine.m1911.org/showthread.php?t=13

Not "some" wiring will have to be brought over. ALL wiring will have to be brought over. Yes, the '98 cluster is all electronic. In fact, Chrysler went all electronic in 1991, then the system changed again for 1996 when they first did OBD-II, and then it changed again in 1997 ('96 was kind of a kludge of the 91-95 system, hacked to meet OBD-II specs). A couple of guys on here have swapped the newer interior into their MJs. I think you can find a write-up on at least one of them if you look.

They aren't bolts, they're studs ... although for replacement purposes that's academic. The originals are a very small metric size -- either 5mm or 6mm. I have drilled them out, tapped for a slightly larger SAE size and run machine screws in, then tack welded the heads to prevent turning and ground them down a bit. Seems to work fairly well. Be sure you drill in a drill press and use a prick punch to mark a starter location. If you try drilling by hand, the drill will walk off-center and you'll have a mess.

Front coils from the TJ (Wrangler). Rear coils from the ZJ (early Grand Cherokee). Yes -- they fit.

I wouldn't even GIVE the other one to someone as a spare. Once the rubber starts to crack, the tire is dead. I'm income-impaired, too, so I might take a chance on using one for my own spare ... because I know I'll remember and if I have to use the spare, I'll keep the speed down. I can't rely on someone else doing that, and I don't want it on my conscience that somebody got hurt or killed because a tire they got from me blew out. A tire with cracks in the tread or sidewall is NOT safe. Period. From a personal liability standpoint, it's not a good idea to sell or give away anything you know is unsafe.

There's not much you can test, and you don't really need a multimeter to do it. This is for an '88, correct? The resistance range for the sender is 0 to 88 ohms. 88 is for full, 0 is for empty. To test the gauge, unplug the connector at the tank. That leaves an open circuit to the sender. The gauge should peg to the right. Then take the chassis side of the connector and jumper the smaller colored wire to the black. That closes the fuel gauge circuit with zero resistance. The needle should swing to empty. If the needle doesn't respond when you do this, then either the gauge is bad or there's a wiring problem. Since your other gauge works, it's not a wiring problem. There are three contacts on the gauge -- it operates by comparing two paths to ground. I guess you could use a multimeter to verify that both paths have continuity, but I've never done that, it isn't described as a test in the FSM, and I don't know exactly what you'd be looking for -- other than verifying continuity.

Did you test the gauge in the cluster? The problem could be in the printed circuit, between the wiring connector and the two screws that connect the gauge to the printed circuit. Don't buy a new gauge (or a new, used gauge) until you know the gauge is the problem.