Eagle

When you first start up, the ECU is pretty much in control and the sensors are not used. When warming up, the engine runs in "open loop" mode, ignoring sensor input and using a pre-mapped fuel curve that's built into the ECU. Once the coolant temperature reaches a certain point (I think it's 165 degrees, not sure) the ECU switches over to "closed loop" mode, in which it reads input from the various sensors and alters the fuel/air delivery accordingly. On my '88 XJ, I can feel a distinct bump or surge when it switches over. It sounds like there's something happening with yours that affects only the open loop mode warm-up cycle. The trick then will be to diagnose what. For lack of any intelligent suggestions, perhaps try running a double dose of injector cleaner through your gas tank and see if the injector might be gummed up and not responding properly in open loop mode.

My 87 MJ with D35 has 1 3/4x10 brakes. My 94 XJ with 8.25" has 1 3/4x10 brakes My buddy's 91 XJ with D35 has 2 1/2x9 brakes. Correct, everything I have seen and herd says XJ's got the 9" rear brakes, the MJ got the 10's. BUT, just remember, this IS A JEEP and anything is possible. The D44 got the 10" wider 2"+ wide brake pads/drums. CW All XJs had 10" rear brakes up through 1989, and possibly through 1990. The 10 x 1-3/4 were GENERALLY used with the D35, and the 10 x 2-1/2 were GENERALLY used with the D44. However, there have been isolated reports of D35s with 10 x 2-1/2" brakes and D44s with 10 x 1-3/4" brakes. The 9 x 2-1/2" rear brakes were never used by AMC. That was one of Chrysler's "improvements."

Does the front hub have a dust cap (like on an older rear wheel drive car's front axles), or an open castle nut? If you remove the tire and rim, does the brake rotor come off and leave a hub/bearing unit, or is the rotor and hub one piece? The early XJs (at least up through 1989) used a conventional front spindle and repackable front wheel bearings, just like a car. Chrysler then changed to using the same hub/bearing unit on the 2WD that ws used on the 4WD. The 2WD version uses a dummy outer stub axle to hold everything together. Assuming this is a 1994 XJ you're asking about (I guessed at that from the list in your signature), it should have a 4WD-type hub/bearing unit. Be sure you get the correct one. There are three versions, depending on year, and they do NOT interchange.

Not with a 2.5L and a 4-speed tranny ... 3.55 gears were standard.

The 1993 Grand Cherokee used the AW4

Oh, [bLEEP]! We spent years fending off this kind of idiocy during the Klintoon administration, had a slight respite during Bush -- and it didn't take to twits long to try again now that they have the White House and a majority.

You're not trying hard enough. IE apparently doesn't share cookies with Firefox ... (hint)

Since the United States Army isn't in the business of giving away ammunition to civilians, there's no way it's "legit." Keep your lips zipped or he could be in a world of hurt.

Excellent choice, IMHO. http://ezine.m1911.org/showthread.php?t=13

Not "some" wiring will have to be brought over. ALL wiring will have to be brought over. Yes, the '98 cluster is all electronic. In fact, Chrysler went all electronic in 1991, then the system changed again for 1996 when they first did OBD-II, and then it changed again in 1997 ('96 was kind of a kludge of the 91-95 system, hacked to meet OBD-II specs). A couple of guys on here have swapped the newer interior into their MJs. I think you can find a write-up on at least one of them if you look.

They aren't bolts, they're studs ... although for replacement purposes that's academic. The originals are a very small metric size -- either 5mm or 6mm. I have drilled them out, tapped for a slightly larger SAE size and run machine screws in, then tack welded the heads to prevent turning and ground them down a bit. Seems to work fairly well. Be sure you drill in a drill press and use a prick punch to mark a starter location. If you try drilling by hand, the drill will walk off-center and you'll have a mess.

Front coils from the TJ (Wrangler). Rear coils from the ZJ (early Grand Cherokee). Yes -- they fit.

I wouldn't even GIVE the other one to someone as a spare. Once the rubber starts to crack, the tire is dead. I'm income-impaired, too, so I might take a chance on using one for my own spare ... because I know I'll remember and if I have to use the spare, I'll keep the speed down. I can't rely on someone else doing that, and I don't want it on my conscience that somebody got hurt or killed because a tire they got from me blew out. A tire with cracks in the tread or sidewall is NOT safe. Period. From a personal liability standpoint, it's not a good idea to sell or give away anything you know is unsafe.

There's not much you can test, and you don't really need a multimeter to do it. This is for an '88, correct? The resistance range for the sender is 0 to 88 ohms. 88 is for full, 0 is for empty. To test the gauge, unplug the connector at the tank. That leaves an open circuit to the sender. The gauge should peg to the right. Then take the chassis side of the connector and jumper the smaller colored wire to the black. That closes the fuel gauge circuit with zero resistance. The needle should swing to empty. If the needle doesn't respond when you do this, then either the gauge is bad or there's a wiring problem. Since your other gauge works, it's not a wiring problem. There are three contacts on the gauge -- it operates by comparing two paths to ground. I guess you could use a multimeter to verify that both paths have continuity, but I've never done that, it isn't described as a test in the FSM, and I don't know exactly what you'd be looking for -- other than verifying continuity.

Did you test the gauge in the cluster? The problem could be in the printed circuit, between the wiring connector and the two screws that connect the gauge to the printed circuit. Don't buy a new gauge (or a new, used gauge) until you know the gauge is the problem.

Well, that works out well. I see nothing right with it ...

Oh, you'd know. When the RMS let go on the ex-GF's Cherokee, the oil hit the exhaust and I trailed a smoke screen all the way from central PA to Montana. It didn't all burn up, either. It poured out so fast that I had to wash an oil slick off the rear hatch at every stop. I bought a CASE of Wal-Mart's house brand oil in PA, and there was none left when I got to Montana. Sorry, I disagree. The RMS can affect oil pressure only if it dumps ALL the oil and the pump is sucking air. My '88 Cherokee (mine, not the ex-GF's) is currently a bit over 280,000 miles. The RMS was replaced once, maybe 100k back. Oil pressure started to look a bit low at around 175,000 with conventional 10W40, so I changed to full synthetic 5w50 and it's okay. Runs about 40 on the highway and idles around 20. When it was new, it ran 50 to 55 psi on the highway and idled at about 25 psi. The factory spec for oil pressure is 13 psi at idle, and anywhere between 37 and 75 psi above 1600 RPM. How's your CCV system? The RMS isn't pressurized by the oil pump and circulation system, but if your CCV system is clogged the crankcase may be under pressure from blowby, and THAT can force oil out through even a good RMS.

I think the RMS does effect oil pressure because when I first replaced it the pressure shot way up into the 40s, then it dropped again and was leaking out of the back of the oil pan. Same thing this time around. Nope. When I rebuilt an '88 XJ for my ex-girlfriend and drove it from the east coast to Montana, the rear main seal let go halfway across Pennsylvania. The oil pressure didn't change. You're looking at bearings, in addition to getting the RMS to seal. Are you using the seal with the double wiper?

My guess would be a vacuum leak in the brake booster, but I don't see how working on the springs could cause that.

Halle Berry drove one in Monster's Ball

The upper photo above is the same as any front hub/rotor for a rear wheel drive car. The XJs and MJs from the years that used that had a conventional (2WD type) front spindle, with standard wheel bearings thay you could (and should) repack every 10,000 miles or so. In the other years they used the same hub/bearing unit as the 4WD models, with just a dummy stub axle insert to hold everything together.

M715s aren't for going fast. The manual steering doesn't exactly lend itself to "spirited" driving, either. M715s are for looking kewl ...

Interesting. They didn't ask me for my phone number ...

Got the bent one out and replaced with one I pulled from one of the hulks. The opposite one, though, won't come out even when prying outward with a screwdriver blade under the shoulder. I'd guess that the "nut" is a riv-nut that wasn't properly expanded when it was installed, so the whole thing is now spinning. Oh, well ... it doesn't appear to be in danger of falling out. Wildman, I will try to return them, but I don't have the receipt so I can't prove how long I've had them.

It has no importance to overlook. The purpose of a steering stabilizer in an off-road vehicle is to prevent the steering wheel from snapping back on you if a front wheel slides off a rock or something. It serves no purpose on the street. The fact that it may mask the symptoms of death wobble is an unfortunate coincidence that causes many people to waste good money replacing stabilizers that don't solve the problem. Most "cars" don't even have steering stabilizers.