Eagle

Okay, so who has a link to those photos of the MJ with the custom FSJ nose on it?

For a Maverick? A D44? Find some Comanche Club member near you and I'll bet they'll gladly swap you a D35 for the spare D44, and you can give the D35 to your bro'. Too bad you're not closer -- I have a pile of D35s out by the shed.

What I had in mind is the dually conversion adapters that JC Whitney sells (or used to sell). They work much like deep spacers, except that they fit outside of the first set of wheels. The adapter is bolted on with the first wheel, then the outer wheel is bolted to the adapter. So it would then be a simple matter to remove the duallies and run it in stock configuration when the extra width or capacity isn't needed. Here ya go: http://answers.jcwhitney.com/answers/19 ... stions.htm

You couldn't wait even ONE hour before bumping your post? We're pretty friendly around here and we all try to help one another, but we don't all sit here 24/7 waiting for a new post to answer. Be a little polite and give people a chance, eh?

First, it's "brakes," not "breaks." The MJ system is fairly simple, except for the rear height-sensing proportioning valve. For a truck that old, you should be replacing as much as possible. If the front rotors and rear drums aren't too bad they can be turned by a brake shop or automotive machine shop to clean up the surface. Any shop that does this work will know how to measure the parts. Rotors cannot be turned to less than a minimum thickness or they aren't safe, and drums can't be turned to more than a maximum inside diameter or they aren't safe. If the shop can clean them up within the allowable tolerances, you'll have to buy new drums or rotors. For calipers, take the old ones to your favorite parts store and trade them in for rebuilt units. Wheel cylinders are not very expensive, so just buy new. For the drums, you should also buy a small parts kit -- that will include new hold-down springs, return springs, basically everything you'll need to rejuvenate the brakes. Best approach on the drums is to do one side at a time, so the other side is there as a reference. Just remember that they are mirror image. I think you are optimistic on your time estimate. Obviously, we haven't seen the vehicle so we don't know how much rust you have to deal with. If it's your first brake job, you need to work carefully, so don't try to rush it. There is a special bleeding procedure for the MJ due to the height-sensing proportioning valve over the rear axle. I've posted it on here a couple of times and other people have since posted links to the description. Be sure to follow it, it is important.

The link Pete gave you in post #4 tells you EVERYTHING you need to know.

Dually conversion, perhaps?

The original clutch in my '88 4.0L went 204,000 miles. It didn't need to be replaced, but the release bearing went so it didn't make sense to pull the tranny and transfer case and NOT do the clutch while it was accessible. I asked my retired Jeep service manager friend if there was something better than an OEM clutch I should put in. He: "How many miles do you have on that clutch?" Me: "204,000, give or take." He: "What was the question?"

They come with a tank. Some may (or may not) include a lack ring for the fuel pump mount, but they won't include the O-ring even if they include the lock ring. Mine didn't come with either one -- I bought the lock ring and the O-ring at the dealer.

$150 is what I think I remember paying two years ago. $227 sounds a little steep. But mine was the SWB version, so the tank is a little smaller.

Yes, that is correct. Locking the collar will result in your front end functioning EXACTLY like every 1991 and newer XJ and MJ -- as well as EVERY XJ that had SelectTrac (they didn't use the axle disconnect, ever).

I always prefer to support local businesses if possible, but not everyone has access to an old-time spring shop. I am blessed by having access to two, one half an hour to the east and the other 25 minutes to the north. I get my u-bolts custom bent for $6 each. For those who aren't as fortunate, Husky Spring is the best on-line vendor I've found, but I'm sure there are others.

www.huskyspring.com

I have never heard of anyone selling brake shoes for one side, so I'm going to guess that "three remaining" means three sets, for three complete axles.

But then he'll have 1-3/4" brakes instead of 2-1/2" brakes. The backing plates are different. You can't put the 2-1/2" drums onto a D35 with 1-3/4" brakes ... I've tried. If you put the 1-3/4" drums on a D44, the drums don't extend back as far as the backing plate and you won't have contact on the full width of the shoes.

If you buy a small parts kit, the kit will include all the springs and retainer clips you'll need. What you'll be missing will be the lower spacer bar that runs between the two shoes to actuate the parking brake, and the parking brake arm that gets pinned to one shoe to push on the transfer bar. I believe the transfer bars are the same for both sides, the lever arms are side-specific. Those are probably dealer-only. The good news is that you can probably grab them off any Dana 35 rear axle. I don't think those are any different for the narrower shoes. The small parts kits may or may not include the push bars (I'm sure there's a technical term, but I don't know what it is) that fit into the pistons on the wheel cylinders and connect to the upper ends of the shoes. Those, too, can be pirated from a Dana 35. The hardest and most expensive part for the D44 brakes is the backing plates, because those are NOT the same as the Dana 35. As long as you have those, you're off to a good start.

Yes. As already commented above, that does not hurt anything. Starting in 1991 the Cherokee and Comanche did not use the disconnect, so by locking it in the engaged position you are effectively making your front axle the functional equivalent of the newer models.

Now how long have I been a member here, and I never knew about that little feature. KEWL!

That's almost certainly the cause of the wandering. That joint should allow rotation, but NO lateral movement.

Something's not right, Mate. Your first post said you have a 4.0L. The 4.0L was not offered in 1986 ... it wasn't introduced until 1987.

On my '88 Cherokee I'm running a '92 XJ track bar. I could not see or measure any difference in length, but it offset the axle a fraction of an inch so it rubs turning one way but not the other with 235/75-15s on. With 31x10.50s on it rubs both ways.

Correct. But at least the firewall won't have to be modified. You'll also need the front radiator supports, and the 4.0L radiator. Also, the 4.0L weighs a lot more, so you'll have to swap the front springs.

On stock Jeep rims, 31x10.50-15 is the largest with no lift. They will rub slightly on the lower control arms in sharp turns. 30x9.50-15 is a better compromise for a stock MJ, but they still probably rub the LCAs a little.

Don't mess with tees. At the front junction block, KEEP the outlet that's at the "nose" of the block. Remove the brake line from the outlet at the front/bottom of the junction block. A standard 1/2" fine thread bolt will do it, but to look good you need to cut the thread portion down. The shortest I could buy was 1" long, and IIRC the cut length was around 3/8". Check this -- if you cut it too short it won't seal. Your truck is now +/- twenty years old. Unless it spent its entire life in the Arizona desert, I wouldn't trust the brake lines. Just take them all out -- both of them. Run one new line from the "nose" of the front metering block directly to the upper end of the rear flex hose. Done.

Is the 4-banger an '86, or newer?