Eagle

Yes, that is correct. Locking the collar will result in your front end functioning EXACTLY like every 1991 and newer XJ and MJ -- as well as EVERY XJ that had SelectTrac (they didn't use the axle disconnect, ever).

I always prefer to support local businesses if possible, but not everyone has access to an old-time spring shop. I am blessed by having access to two, one half an hour to the east and the other 25 minutes to the north. I get my u-bolts custom bent for $6 each. For those who aren't as fortunate, Husky Spring is the best on-line vendor I've found, but I'm sure there are others.

www.huskyspring.com

I have never heard of anyone selling brake shoes for one side, so I'm going to guess that "three remaining" means three sets, for three complete axles.

But then he'll have 1-3/4" brakes instead of 2-1/2" brakes. The backing plates are different. You can't put the 2-1/2" drums onto a D35 with 1-3/4" brakes ... I've tried. If you put the 1-3/4" drums on a D44, the drums don't extend back as far as the backing plate and you won't have contact on the full width of the shoes.

If you buy a small parts kit, the kit will include all the springs and retainer clips you'll need. What you'll be missing will be the lower spacer bar that runs between the two shoes to actuate the parking brake, and the parking brake arm that gets pinned to one shoe to push on the transfer bar. I believe the transfer bars are the same for both sides, the lever arms are side-specific. Those are probably dealer-only. The good news is that you can probably grab them off any Dana 35 rear axle. I don't think those are any different for the narrower shoes. The small parts kits may or may not include the push bars (I'm sure there's a technical term, but I don't know what it is) that fit into the pistons on the wheel cylinders and connect to the upper ends of the shoes. Those, too, can be pirated from a Dana 35. The hardest and most expensive part for the D44 brakes is the backing plates, because those are NOT the same as the Dana 35. As long as you have those, you're off to a good start.

Yes. As already commented above, that does not hurt anything. Starting in 1991 the Cherokee and Comanche did not use the disconnect, so by locking it in the engaged position you are effectively making your front axle the functional equivalent of the newer models.

Now how long have I been a member here, and I never knew about that little feature. KEWL!

That's almost certainly the cause of the wandering. That joint should allow rotation, but NO lateral movement.

Something's not right, Mate. Your first post said you have a 4.0L. The 4.0L was not offered in 1986 ... it wasn't introduced until 1987.

On my '88 Cherokee I'm running a '92 XJ track bar. I could not see or measure any difference in length, but it offset the axle a fraction of an inch so it rubs turning one way but not the other with 235/75-15s on. With 31x10.50s on it rubs both ways.

Correct. But at least the firewall won't have to be modified. You'll also need the front radiator supports, and the 4.0L radiator. Also, the 4.0L weighs a lot more, so you'll have to swap the front springs.

On stock Jeep rims, 31x10.50-15 is the largest with no lift. They will rub slightly on the lower control arms in sharp turns. 30x9.50-15 is a better compromise for a stock MJ, but they still probably rub the LCAs a little.

Don't mess with tees. At the front junction block, KEEP the outlet that's at the "nose" of the block. Remove the brake line from the outlet at the front/bottom of the junction block. A standard 1/2" fine thread bolt will do it, but to look good you need to cut the thread portion down. The shortest I could buy was 1" long, and IIRC the cut length was around 3/8". Check this -- if you cut it too short it won't seal. Your truck is now +/- twenty years old. Unless it spent its entire life in the Arizona desert, I wouldn't trust the brake lines. Just take them all out -- both of them. Run one new line from the "nose" of the front metering block directly to the upper end of the rear flex hose. Done.

Is the 4-banger an '86, or newer?

One pad instead of two? :dunno:

More often, what goes bad on the track bar is the tie rod end-type fitting at the upper (frame) end. A very small amount of slop in that joint translates into an astonishing amount of free play in the steering. It's easy to check which parts of the steering need to be replaced. Have an assistant (your wife, perhaps) sit in the driver's seat and turn the wheel from side to side. The goal here is NOT to turn the front wheels, but to turn the steering wheel in each direction just far enough to take up the slack to the point where the wheels just begin to move ... then rapidly go back to the other threshold. While your assistant is turning the steering wheel, you crawl underneath and put your hand on each joint. You can feel the flex in a tie rod end-type joint a lot better than you can see it. My guess is you're due for a track bar. Tie rod ends aren't hugely expensive and they're easy to change, so it's probably a good idea to do them, too. That should be all you need. Don't overlook that there is an over-center lash adjustment in the steering box itself. If the track bar and TREs don't tighten up the steering, the next thing to check would be the box. IMHO, skip the urethane bushings. They're noisy and they ride harsh. A Comanche is not a sports car -- you don't need that degree of tightness in the suspension.

How does one do this math, for future reference? 1. Convert engine size in liters to cubic inches [1 liter = 61 cubic inches), then convert cubic inches to cubic feet. 2. Divide by two, because it's a 4-stroke engine. For each revolution, only half the cylinders are on intake, the others are on exhaust. 3. That's how much air (approximately, depending on the cam) is pumped through the engine per revolution. Multiply by the maximum RPM. I used 5000 RPM because that's typically where AMC/Jeep always set their redline.

Somebody (Warn?) makes a solid steel insert for a 2" receiver that has a substantial D-ring on the end of it. It's a good choice with a receiver hitch. Here it is: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 0464484442

In a word -- yes, it appears so. However, if you look at the photo you posted, there is a rubber cushion on the opposite side of that metal bracket. It's the rubber cushion that collapses and fails, and that's what you need to replace. You need to get under your truck with the new mount and compare it to the one that's in your truck to determine if it's the right one. How much did you pay? Last time I replaced a BA 10/5 mount must have been at least 10 years ago and it cost me $115 back then -- at wholesale from the dealer. If you didn't pay at least 100 clams, chances are you got the wrong part.

Well, for starters ... don't assume that you'll always take a strap from the front of your vehicle. Suppose you have to get yanked from the rear, or that you're yanking somebody else? Where are you going to attach the strap on the REAR of your MJ? The stock bumper is not strong enough, and the typical Fey-brand replacement bumpers are not strong enough. You absolutely do not want to attach either to your axle or to one of your leaf springs. Start looking for a receiver hitch, or an aftermarket bumper with a receiver built in or with D-rings built in.

500 cfm is too much for a 2.8L engine. If you do the math, you'll see that a 2.8L engine at 5,000 RPM is pumping only 246 CFM. The 390 will be MORE than enough.

Replacing the blades or inserts makes good sense. They should be replaced at least every year, or every six months if they get a lot of exposure to summer sun, because the UV makes the rubber hard. But why replace the arms? Are we using the same terminology here? The arms are the parts that mount to the rotating post on the cowl and move the wipers. The blades are the metal (or plastic) parts that snap onto the arms. The actual rubber parts that touch the glass are the refills, or blade inserts.

Don't forget the original poster is in Canada. However, the official exchange rate as of today is $1.03:$1.00, so it shouldn't make THAT much difference.

Do you have fuel pressure in the fuel rail?