Eagle

I don't see anything in your photo that matches your description of what you are asking about.

:agree: This. "Off" is off. "Defrost" is not off -- the fan is running, and if the fan is not at high speed the current is going through one of the resistors in the resistor pack, so that's probably where the smoke was coming from.

That's it: front, transfer case, and fuel tank.

Maybe it's because I grew up before anything other than commercial and military aircraft had disc brakes, but I don't think drum brakes are more difficult to service. I'd much rather do a set of shoes on a drum brake axle than do pads on a Jeep front axle. There are some newer disc (caliper) designs that allow swapping the pads without dismounting the calipers, and THAT would be easier. But the MJ doesn't have that.

For most drivers of MJs rear disc brakes actually hold no advantage. Their advantage is primarily that they shed heat faster than drums, so they are better for racing. Personally, I would never go through the expense and bother of converting perfectly good rear drums to discs for an MJ.

For a truly bolt-in rear axle, it has to come from an MJ (Comanche). The spring perches will be located on the underside of the axle tubes. XJ (Cherokee) axles are the exact same axles as MJ axles, bbut the spring perches are located on the top of the axle tubes. All that's necessary to put an XJ axle into an MJ is to grind the welds holding the perches to the tubes, relocate the perches to the correct location AND ANGLE as an MJ axles, and reweld. There are four possible axles you might find under an XJ: In early ones, you will usually find a dana 35 but you might find a Dana 44. In XJs 1991 through 1996, you may find a Dana 35 or maybe a Chrysler 8-1/4" with 27-spline (small) axle shafts. From 1997 through 2001 you might find a Dana 35 or a Chrysler 8-1/4" with 29-spline (larger/better) axle shafts.

"5 on 5" means the wheels (and hubs) have 5 bolts, arranged on a circle with a diameter of 5 inches. The XJ and MJ (Cherokee and Comanche) are "5 on 4-1/2", meaning they use 5 lugs but the bolt circle is 4-1/2". The Rodeo uses a 6-bolt hub, so finding a front axle to match AND be a bolt in for an MJ is not possible.

Yeah -- but those aren't the same wheels as in the first post.

I beg to differ - NV 3550 is best. However, it won't be found in any MJs as donors, VERY few Cherokees had it (2000 and 201 only), so it would have to come from a 2000 or newer Wrangler.

You replace the entire window and frame assembly, which IIRC includes the front vertical track for the large window. It's not difficult to do, just a nuisance. However ... as an owner of a 1988 Cherokee bought new, for which I paid extra for the then-optional vent windows ...DON'T DO IT! The operable vents leak. Period. They leak, and short of gluing them shut with silicone adhesive there is not way to make them not leak. My Cherokee vents leaked from the day I bought it. I took it in under warranty, and the zone rep offered to authorize the dealership to "fix" the problem. The fix? Replace the operable vents with the non-operable windows. No refund of what I paid for the option, of course. I politely told him to screw off, and applied a bead of silicone around each vent. No leaks in 22 years -- and the "vents" have not been opened in 22 years.

I'm going to disagree with Pete. Not about the ride height -- the 2WD is lower than the 4WD -- but that's not a bar to running 31s if you use factory rims. I'm running 31x10.50s on my old '88 XJ. The only rubbing is on the lower control arms at full steering lock. The solution is either shim the steering stops, as suggested above, or change to WJ Grand Cherokee LCAs that have a bend in them to allow more tire clearance. I do agree with Pete that 30s are a better choice. I am currently using the 31s because I had them, not because I think they are the best choice for a stock height vehicle with stock gearing.

Possible, but more likely varnish in the fuel filter. The filter is a round canister attached to the driver's side frame rail.

It depends on what you mean by "help out." A light flywheel will allow the engine to rev up a little faster, but it also makes it harder to drive without bucking and stalling. Given the weight of a Jeep, I doubt very much that you would find it an improvement.

My guess is slave. but if you're planning swap anyway, why not just go for it. :thumbsup:

The rollers are not applying force, they are dead weight that's being turned by the wheels. I guess you could say they are a resisting force -- they are not driving, they are being driven. The rear proportioning valve *SHOULD* not keep the rear wheels from stopping ... if it's working and properly adjusted.

Warm it up to operating temperature and put a voltmeter across the battery terminals to measure the actual voltage in the system. Try to do it with the engine at operating RPM, maybe 1200 or 1500 RPM. Turn on the headlights and repeat. If the measured voltage is lower, your alternator isn't able to handle the amperage draw of the headlights, and you aren't getting full power to the ignition, the injectors, or the fuel pump. Since you have an '88, you have a ballast resistor for the fuel pump. Another quick test would be to rig a jumper wire and toggle switch across the terminals of the ballast resistor. Make the wires long enough so you can have the switch inside the cab. Drive it with the headlights on, and when you feel it stuttering flip the switch to bypass the ballast resistor. That will send more voltage to the fuel pump. If that smooths it out, either the alternator isn't keeping up or the fuel pump is weak.

Before, or during. The LAST thing you want to do is flush all the crappola from the block into a new radiator.

I'm sorry, I do not have it bookmarked. I would have to search for it the same way you do. It's there. Perhaps someone else has a bookmark to it.

I agree completely. But ... they are not cheap (or even inexpensive).

There is no such thing as a "cheeper but tough" diff cover. The bling bling Mr. Gasket chrome ones aren't inexpensive, but they are junk compared to an OEM cover. The heavy-duty, off-road capable covers you can bounce off rocks are NOT cheap, and if you find one that IS cheap ... you probably don't really want to buy it.

There are three things necessary for an internal combustion engine to run: fuel, air, and spark. Air's free, so we worry about the other two. You have verified fuel delivery, but not pressure. There is a test fitting on the fuel rail, you can use that to check for pressure. Since you say you have verified spark, and timing isn't adjustable, for now maybe we can assume that spark isn't the problem. So ... Have you verified that the injectors are injecting? Gas in the fuel rail ir useless unless the injectors put it into the cylinders.

I don't think SporTruck was a model for '87, and those alloy wheels were not available in '87, so it has to be '88 or newer. No headrests, so probably not a '90 or newer. I'll guess '88 or '89.

whos Eric? The link you provided is to ERIC's XJ. Who else would know more about it than the guy who did the write-up you are looking at?

Specifically, Rust-Oleum paint. Which, if properly applied to a dirty, rusty old steel differential cover will make it look all nice and shiny-like. Ya know?

Why not use a 343 or a 360? The block is the same so it's exactly the same amount of work, but you gets heads with larger valves, and a boatload more torque. In the 1967-1969 range, the 343 was the most efficient of the V8s in terms of horsepower-per-cubic-inch. Much better than the 290, and better than the 390. And the 343 in a Javelin or AMX delivered as good (or better) gas mileage as the 290s. The 390s were only available in high compression, but the 343 and 360 were available as a low compression version. Given gas prices today, I'd build a low compression 343 using a 4-barrel intake and a torquer cam, and laugh my fool head off every time I stomped on the gas.