Eagle

If that doesn't work, or you can't find them, what about taking the MJ springs apart and substituting XJ leaves for everything other than the main leaf? The XJ springs have less arch because they are desigigned to ride basically flat at curb weight.

I don't recommend it for the reason I stated: The XJ proportioning valve is prone to clogging internally and leaving you with NO rear brakes. My '88 XJ right now (as of last winter) will not lock the rear wheels if I slam on the brakes on packed snow. Same thing happened to a NAXJA friend in PA, and I've read posts by other XJ owners with the same problem. I have an XJ proportioning valve (the one I cut in half to see how it differed from the MJ distribution block) that came from a wrecked XJ. When I opened it up, I found that the internal spring and O-ring had been removed and the plunger had been set in the fully-forward position ... resulting in no proportioning. I have no way of knowing who did the mod or why, but the vehicle itself was stock, so it wasn't because of a conversion to rear disks. My best guess, then, is that he had no rear brakes and decided he'd like to be able to stop the vehicle. That's the best way to do it.

SporTruck trim level did not. Chief and Pioneer levels did.

I don't recommend this, but IF you elect to do it ... before installing the XJ proportioning valve in the MJ be sure to open it up and thoroughly clean out the inside. The XJ proportioning valve is known to get clogged up and leave you with NO rear brakes. I'm facing that on my '88 XJ right now, and my plan is to open it up and disable the proportioning function entirely. I would much prefer to have too much braking than none.

I haven't, but my friend has. This is a standard (adjustable) proportioning valve, it is NOT in any way height or load sensitive. This is a Mopar part but it looks identical to (and probably is identical to) the Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve I have mentioned in previous discussions. I have removed the rear proportioning valve from my '88 MJ and I don't feel any need for reducing the rear braking, but if I did ... this is what I'd use.

They actually had THREE on the old ones. The one for the gauge/idiot light is located, as noted above, at the rear of the head. The optional one to control the auxiliary fan (if present) is in the driver's side radiator tank. The one that provides engine temperature data to the ECU is located on the driver's side of the block, in the general vicinity of the knock sensor.

Those on the lower left were used on the early base models and SporTrucks. They are what have often been referred to as the "flag style" mirrors.

XJ form-fitting floor liners will not fit an MJ. The MJ has a raised rib running for/aft through the approximate center of the footwell area. The XJ never had that, so the fitted liners will have flat bottoms that will rock when placed over that rib.

You can fit 31x10.50-15s under a stock height MJ IF you run OEM Jeep rims. They allow the 31s to fit inside the fenders. All aftermarket rims have less backspacing, and on aftermarket rims 31s will be an interference fit with the flares and sheet metal.

Except that '87-'90 used the mechanical speedo and '91-'94 used the electronic speedo, so to replace the one in your truck without the PRNDL window you'll need the type that matches the year of your MJ.

Guess I'll never win this battle... :headpop: Sorry Marcel but this is not true. It's been proven time and time again... Sorry, but it IS true. The Neutral position of the transfer case on the early 231 cases disconnects the transfer case from the transmission but it locks the front and rear driveshafts together. After you made this claim the last time I went out and jacked up my '88 XJ, which I bought new and which I know is all original. I verified that the driveshafts were locked together and I posted it then.

Buy a leather cover from Pep Boys and spend an afternoon lacing it on.

My '88 MJ has a Wrangler (YJ) AX-15 and transfer case in it. The swap was done by/for the previous owner ... I bought it that way. The transfer case doesn't hit the floor and there is no need to modify the transmission to "unclock" the transfer case.

I'll have to look at my wife's XJ to verify (and that won't happen tonight) but I believe the factory trans cooler runs in series with the in-radiator cooler. In other words -- they used both when they installed the supplemental tranny cooler. Does anyone know for certain?

Jeep used an external tranny cooler mounted in front of the radiator on the XJs and MJs with the off-road or tow packages. The factory kits are probably not available, but you can get similar kits from all the parts places. IIRC the "name" in the industry is Perma-Cool. http://www.perma-cool.com/Catalog/Cat_page04.html

I'm not sure. I've done AALs on XJs, but I haven't gotten into an MJ pack yet. I think I remember someone else reporting that the MJ centering pins are one size larger than the XJ. Makes sense, I guess. I know the XJ U-bolts are 12mm and the MJ U-bolts are 14mm.

Fire up Photoshop and see if the ranger box would look better with the XJ 97+ nose.

This is not a cell phone, and this isn't the Navy. Shorthand is not appropriate where it isn't necessary and where/when it makes things more difficult for the people with whom you hope to communicate. In the Army we called it 'Basic Training." Yeah ... been there, done that, got the medals to prove it. Next insult? Fair enough. Ciao.

Pete - When you added an XJ leaf into the MJ pack, what did you do about the centering pin diameter? IIRC, XJs are 5/16" and MJs are 3/8". Did you drill out the XJ leaf, or use 5/16" pins?

Sorry, Mate. Army jargon. "Sitrep" is short for "situation report." It just means "let us know what you find out." So what's this harness that "everybody" is talking about? Sounds to me like you're throwing parts (and money) at the problem without even knowing what or where the problem is. I hope it works, but it's not a great way to approach troubleshooting.

Okay. Moving forward (we hope). The hazards use a separate flasher than the turn signals, so if the hazards make the dash lights blink, too, then the problem isn't the turn signal flasher. This makes me suspect more strongly the front turn signal sockets. Remove the bulbs from the front sockets and try it again -- with no bulbs in. If it won't flash on the turn signals, use the hazards. See if the dash lights still blink. Sitrep at 08:00.

Cody - Please do us and yourself a favor and look on your keyboard for the period, comma, and caps lock keys. The English language is spoken in sentences, which allows one thought to be separated from the next thought. The post above is (I'm sorry to say) essentially unintelligible gibberish -- all because you're in too much of a hurry to observe standard punctuation and capitalization. Seriously, it makes my head hurt just trying to read it.

What do you mean by "proportioning valve"? If you are referring to that junction block next to the master cylinder, that is not a prportioning valve on the MJ. However, it does have rubber o-rings inside, so I would recommend against using heat. The block itself is aluminum, so it won't take a lot of heat to do serious damage.

210 is the normal operating temperature for a Jeep engine. 210 is NOT "too hot." There's a zone on the gauge that has a red background -- when the needle gets into the red, THAT's too hot.

You can start by testing, as I suggested. Remove BOTH front turn signal bulbs, then operate the lights, the hazards, the turn signals, etc., and see if the blinking of the dash lights goes away. Remember that unless you have a heavy-duty flasher pulling the front bulbs will change the flash rate. That's not what you're looking for -- you want to see if removing the front bulbs (which will eliminate any back-feeding) will eliminate the blinking dash lights. It's almost never a good idea to start throwing parts at a problem until you have at least narrowed down the cause. I'd rather not discuss how I learned that ... and how much the lesson cost me. BTW -- do the dash lights blink when you use the hazard flashers?