Eagle

500k kilometers is around 300k miles. At a minimum you are overdue for rod bearings and probably main bearings.

omg!!! i see that now. when my cable broke(cuz i was using one rated for 2000 pounds :doh: ) it flew a bit but wow! i won't ever use one again What you don't see in that photo is that there was a driver in that Jeep when the strap broke loose. If this is the same incident I saw other photos of several years ago, the driver was killed instantly -- got hit right in the head. Do NOT take chances with recovery gear. And learn the proper methods -- such as draping a heavy jacket or a moving blanket or something over the middle of the strap between the two vehicles to pull it down to the ground if one end gets loose. A standard 2" x 20-foot recovery strap is rated for 20,000 (not 2,000) pounds -- and even those break sometimes. That's all I carried, but a lot of the guys in NAXJA who ran more heavily modified vehicles and went on higher rated trails carried 3" straps rather for 30,000 pounds.

The bell housing is aluminum, is it not? Good luck trying to weld aluminum with a torch.

Of course, if you drill the mount then you can never use a correctly-sized track bar. I'm with Hornbrod -- that's simply not an option for me. If a company can't make a part that has the correct size bushing for the application, how can I and why should I have ANY faith in the quality of the product? If it doesn't fit from the get-go, I don't want it on my truck.

Here's what you need to mount tow hooks: http://www.custom4x4fabrication.com/rec ... l#brackets

The track bar bolt is metric. 12mm would be almost a half inch and I'm pretty sure it isn't that big, so I'm going to say it's a 10mm. Unfortunately, a lot of American companies don't speak metric so they build stuff using what they consider to be the nearest SAE size that will work. For a sleeve, obviously to "work" means it has to be larger or the bolt won't go through. If they tried to size it for an SAE bolt, a 3/8" would be too small, so the next larger size would be 7/16" ... which is considerably larger.

Where and how are the front hooks mounted on your truck? Your earlier post said "bumper," but the factory hooks were NOT mounted to the bumper, they were attached to some rather substantial supplemental brackets that bolted to the front subframe rails. PLEASE tell me you don't have tow hooks bolted directly to the bumper or directly to the frame rails.

Within a model year, they are the same. But there are differences between the early axles (and calipers) and the newer ones. If you don't know what year vehicle the axle came out of, you can't assume the pads are the same.

If you think the cheaper ones look cool, don't let me stop you from buying them. But take a good look at the photo, then go out and look at your truck to see if there's a place to mount them. Looks to me like you would have to screw the mount through the door skin. Without some reinforcement inside, I would expect the weight to make them wobble a lot, especially when they're in the slipstream at 60+ MPH.

I know what they say. What are you expecting them to tell you? They are NOT Comanche mirrors. The base model MJ had a tiny little "flag" style mirror on the drivers' door only. Most MJs have the ones that fit the triangle at the front of the vent windows, lie the pair you found for $75. And then there were the optional tow package mirrors, the ones that mounted to the doors on outrigger brackets -- the "mini west coast" style. That's it. Those other mirrors can no doubt be screwed onto a Comanche somewhere, somehow. But they are not Comanche mirrors. Remember Abe Lincoln's saying about the dog's tail and five legs ...

These are not Comanche/Cherokee/Wagoneer mirrors. They are sort of like Wrangler mirrors, but I don't think they're exact copies of those,, either. I don't really know WHAT these are ... but they aren't for a Comanche.

That's a good price for a pair.

You might be able to make them work, but where would you mount them ... and how? Those are intended for a Wrangler. The XJ and MJ mirrors are nothing like Wrangler mirrors. No, the XJ and MJ mounts were NOT the same as the Wrangler.

I have not tinkered with the TPS, but considering that unplugging the TCU and shifting manually is part of the FSM procedure for diagnosing tranny problems, it seems unlikely that unplugging the TCU would induce stalling problems. After all, it's a separate computer with a separate harness. How would the ECU know the TCU is unplugged? And why would it care?

It's a Japanese transmission, so it is almost certainly a metric bolt, not SAE.

80/90 gear oil is what's called for. Synthetic gear oil will make it run a lot quieter and shift a lot better when cold.

Most clerks at Autozone don't know anything. He probably figured they're all the same. I have three Autozone stores in more or less an equidistant radius around me. Out of the three stores, there's one guy who works at one of the stores during the shift when I usually can't get there who knows anything. The rest of them are total ciphers.

It was an option. The SporTruck definitely didn't have them, and my '87 Pioneer doesn't have them.

Anything can be taken apart. If you do, then it won't have brake fluid in it, you have to re-bleed the system, and the light will come on again so you'll be right back where you are now. It might help if you remove the plastic switch part on the top of the metering block -- that's the part the wires go to. Then stomp on the brakes and see if the slider will center itself.

A '91 with a 4-speed is not "late model." This thread started out asking about 1996 axles.

Not quite. 4 cylinder/4 speed stick (AX-4) have 3.55. Supposedly (have not been able to confirm personally yet) early 4 cylinder/auto had 4.56. I'm sorry. I meant to say all "Chrysler era" 4-cylinders. Yes, the early AMC XJs and MJs had some ratio variations, especially behind the 4-cylinders. Chrysler did away with all that. That's what was intended by my reference to "late model XJs."

It won't help. The purpose of the thermostat is to keep the temperature UP, not down. If your cooling system can't cool down to 195, it certainly can't cool down to 180. Quadratec has new pressure bottles for about $25. be sure to get the one with a new cap ... I don't think anyone has ever been able to get a seal using a new bottle with an old cap, or a new cap with an old bottle. And do NOT "top off" the bottle. Liquid does not compress, so when it heats up it has to blow the lid off. The bottle should be filled to the halfway mark (there's a post inside) when cold. Do not fill it beyond that.

You can use the center hole if you replace the center pin in the spring packs with a standard grade 8 hex-head bolt.

no, that's regular amc20's (NOT comanche amc20's...those are 1 piece) Pretty sure I remember posts about 84-85 D35 shafts being 2 piece. You may remember such a post but, if there was one, I believe it was in error. Simple test -- if it's a 2-piece (with the hub splined onto the shaft like the old CJ axles), there will be a nut holding the flange on. No nut = 1-piece axle.

Pressure cap? Expansion tank? What year vehicle is this? If it's a 1990 or older 4.0L, that tank is not an "expansion" tank, it's an integral part of the cooling system. The cap IS a pressure cap, and if it isn't holding pressure, that's why your coolant boils. How high do you fill it? It is supposed to be filled halfway when the system is cold. If you overfill it, there is NO expansion tank, so the expansion of the coolant is what's popping the cap.