Eagle

One pad instead of two? :dunno:

More often, what goes bad on the track bar is the tie rod end-type fitting at the upper (frame) end. A very small amount of slop in that joint translates into an astonishing amount of free play in the steering. It's easy to check which parts of the steering need to be replaced. Have an assistant (your wife, perhaps) sit in the driver's seat and turn the wheel from side to side. The goal here is NOT to turn the front wheels, but to turn the steering wheel in each direction just far enough to take up the slack to the point where the wheels just begin to move ... then rapidly go back to the other threshold. While your assistant is turning the steering wheel, you crawl underneath and put your hand on each joint. You can feel the flex in a tie rod end-type joint a lot better than you can see it. My guess is you're due for a track bar. Tie rod ends aren't hugely expensive and they're easy to change, so it's probably a good idea to do them, too. That should be all you need. Don't overlook that there is an over-center lash adjustment in the steering box itself. If the track bar and TREs don't tighten up the steering, the next thing to check would be the box. IMHO, skip the urethane bushings. They're noisy and they ride harsh. A Comanche is not a sports car -- you don't need that degree of tightness in the suspension.

How does one do this math, for future reference? 1. Convert engine size in liters to cubic inches [1 liter = 61 cubic inches), then convert cubic inches to cubic feet. 2. Divide by two, because it's a 4-stroke engine. For each revolution, only half the cylinders are on intake, the others are on exhaust. 3. That's how much air (approximately, depending on the cam) is pumped through the engine per revolution. Multiply by the maximum RPM. I used 5000 RPM because that's typically where AMC/Jeep always set their redline.

Somebody (Warn?) makes a solid steel insert for a 2" receiver that has a substantial D-ring on the end of it. It's a good choice with a receiver hitch. Here it is: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 0464484442

In a word -- yes, it appears so. However, if you look at the photo you posted, there is a rubber cushion on the opposite side of that metal bracket. It's the rubber cushion that collapses and fails, and that's what you need to replace. You need to get under your truck with the new mount and compare it to the one that's in your truck to determine if it's the right one. How much did you pay? Last time I replaced a BA 10/5 mount must have been at least 10 years ago and it cost me $115 back then -- at wholesale from the dealer. If you didn't pay at least 100 clams, chances are you got the wrong part.

Well, for starters ... don't assume that you'll always take a strap from the front of your vehicle. Suppose you have to get yanked from the rear, or that you're yanking somebody else? Where are you going to attach the strap on the REAR of your MJ? The stock bumper is not strong enough, and the typical Fey-brand replacement bumpers are not strong enough. You absolutely do not want to attach either to your axle or to one of your leaf springs. Start looking for a receiver hitch, or an aftermarket bumper with a receiver built in or with D-rings built in.

500 cfm is too much for a 2.8L engine. If you do the math, you'll see that a 2.8L engine at 5,000 RPM is pumping only 246 CFM. The 390 will be MORE than enough.

Replacing the blades or inserts makes good sense. They should be replaced at least every year, or every six months if they get a lot of exposure to summer sun, because the UV makes the rubber hard. But why replace the arms? Are we using the same terminology here? The arms are the parts that mount to the rotating post on the cowl and move the wipers. The blades are the metal (or plastic) parts that snap onto the arms. The actual rubber parts that touch the glass are the refills, or blade inserts.

Don't forget the original poster is in Canada. However, the official exchange rate as of today is $1.03:$1.00, so it shouldn't make THAT much difference.

Do you have fuel pressure in the fuel rail?

500k kilometers is around 300k miles. At a minimum you are overdue for rod bearings and probably main bearings.

omg!!! i see that now. when my cable broke(cuz i was using one rated for 2000 pounds :doh: ) it flew a bit but wow! i won't ever use one again What you don't see in that photo is that there was a driver in that Jeep when the strap broke loose. If this is the same incident I saw other photos of several years ago, the driver was killed instantly -- got hit right in the head. Do NOT take chances with recovery gear. And learn the proper methods -- such as draping a heavy jacket or a moving blanket or something over the middle of the strap between the two vehicles to pull it down to the ground if one end gets loose. A standard 2" x 20-foot recovery strap is rated for 20,000 (not 2,000) pounds -- and even those break sometimes. That's all I carried, but a lot of the guys in NAXJA who ran more heavily modified vehicles and went on higher rated trails carried 3" straps rather for 30,000 pounds.

The bell housing is aluminum, is it not? Good luck trying to weld aluminum with a torch.

Of course, if you drill the mount then you can never use a correctly-sized track bar. I'm with Hornbrod -- that's simply not an option for me. If a company can't make a part that has the correct size bushing for the application, how can I and why should I have ANY faith in the quality of the product? If it doesn't fit from the get-go, I don't want it on my truck.

Here's what you need to mount tow hooks: http://www.custom4x4fabrication.com/rec ... l#brackets

The track bar bolt is metric. 12mm would be almost a half inch and I'm pretty sure it isn't that big, so I'm going to say it's a 10mm. Unfortunately, a lot of American companies don't speak metric so they build stuff using what they consider to be the nearest SAE size that will work. For a sleeve, obviously to "work" means it has to be larger or the bolt won't go through. If they tried to size it for an SAE bolt, a 3/8" would be too small, so the next larger size would be 7/16" ... which is considerably larger.

Where and how are the front hooks mounted on your truck? Your earlier post said "bumper," but the factory hooks were NOT mounted to the bumper, they were attached to some rather substantial supplemental brackets that bolted to the front subframe rails. PLEASE tell me you don't have tow hooks bolted directly to the bumper or directly to the frame rails.

Within a model year, they are the same. But there are differences between the early axles (and calipers) and the newer ones. If you don't know what year vehicle the axle came out of, you can't assume the pads are the same.

If you think the cheaper ones look cool, don't let me stop you from buying them. But take a good look at the photo, then go out and look at your truck to see if there's a place to mount them. Looks to me like you would have to screw the mount through the door skin. Without some reinforcement inside, I would expect the weight to make them wobble a lot, especially when they're in the slipstream at 60+ MPH.

I know what they say. What are you expecting them to tell you? They are NOT Comanche mirrors. The base model MJ had a tiny little "flag" style mirror on the drivers' door only. Most MJs have the ones that fit the triangle at the front of the vent windows, lie the pair you found for $75. And then there were the optional tow package mirrors, the ones that mounted to the doors on outrigger brackets -- the "mini west coast" style. That's it. Those other mirrors can no doubt be screwed onto a Comanche somewhere, somehow. But they are not Comanche mirrors. Remember Abe Lincoln's saying about the dog's tail and five legs ...

These are not Comanche/Cherokee/Wagoneer mirrors. They are sort of like Wrangler mirrors, but I don't think they're exact copies of those,, either. I don't really know WHAT these are ... but they aren't for a Comanche.

That's a good price for a pair.

You might be able to make them work, but where would you mount them ... and how? Those are intended for a Wrangler. The XJ and MJ mirrors are nothing like Wrangler mirrors. No, the XJ and MJ mounts were NOT the same as the Wrangler.

I have not tinkered with the TPS, but considering that unplugging the TCU and shifting manually is part of the FSM procedure for diagnosing tranny problems, it seems unlikely that unplugging the TCU would induce stalling problems. After all, it's a separate computer with a separate harness. How would the ECU know the TCU is unplugged? And why would it care?

It's a Japanese transmission, so it is almost certainly a metric bolt, not SAE.