Eagle

I'm going to disagree with Pete. Not about the ride height -- the 2WD is lower than the 4WD -- but that's not a bar to running 31s if you use factory rims. I'm running 31x10.50s on my old '88 XJ. The only rubbing is on the lower control arms at full steering lock. The solution is either shim the steering stops, as suggested above, or change to WJ Grand Cherokee LCAs that have a bend in them to allow more tire clearance. I do agree with Pete that 30s are a better choice. I am currently using the 31s because I had them, not because I think they are the best choice for a stock height vehicle with stock gearing.

Possible, but more likely varnish in the fuel filter. The filter is a round canister attached to the driver's side frame rail.

It depends on what you mean by "help out." A light flywheel will allow the engine to rev up a little faster, but it also makes it harder to drive without bucking and stalling. Given the weight of a Jeep, I doubt very much that you would find it an improvement.

My guess is slave. but if you're planning swap anyway, why not just go for it. :thumbsup:

The rollers are not applying force, they are dead weight that's being turned by the wheels. I guess you could say they are a resisting force -- they are not driving, they are being driven. The rear proportioning valve *SHOULD* not keep the rear wheels from stopping ... if it's working and properly adjusted.

Warm it up to operating temperature and put a voltmeter across the battery terminals to measure the actual voltage in the system. Try to do it with the engine at operating RPM, maybe 1200 or 1500 RPM. Turn on the headlights and repeat. If the measured voltage is lower, your alternator isn't able to handle the amperage draw of the headlights, and you aren't getting full power to the ignition, the injectors, or the fuel pump. Since you have an '88, you have a ballast resistor for the fuel pump. Another quick test would be to rig a jumper wire and toggle switch across the terminals of the ballast resistor. Make the wires long enough so you can have the switch inside the cab. Drive it with the headlights on, and when you feel it stuttering flip the switch to bypass the ballast resistor. That will send more voltage to the fuel pump. If that smooths it out, either the alternator isn't keeping up or the fuel pump is weak.

Before, or during. The LAST thing you want to do is flush all the crappola from the block into a new radiator.

I'm sorry, I do not have it bookmarked. I would have to search for it the same way you do. It's there. Perhaps someone else has a bookmark to it.

I agree completely. But ... they are not cheap (or even inexpensive).

There is no such thing as a "cheeper but tough" diff cover. The bling bling Mr. Gasket chrome ones aren't inexpensive, but they are junk compared to an OEM cover. The heavy-duty, off-road capable covers you can bounce off rocks are NOT cheap, and if you find one that IS cheap ... you probably don't really want to buy it.

There are three things necessary for an internal combustion engine to run: fuel, air, and spark. Air's free, so we worry about the other two. You have verified fuel delivery, but not pressure. There is a test fitting on the fuel rail, you can use that to check for pressure. Since you say you have verified spark, and timing isn't adjustable, for now maybe we can assume that spark isn't the problem. So ... Have you verified that the injectors are injecting? Gas in the fuel rail ir useless unless the injectors put it into the cylinders.

I don't think SporTruck was a model for '87, and those alloy wheels were not available in '87, so it has to be '88 or newer. No headrests, so probably not a '90 or newer. I'll guess '88 or '89.

whos Eric? The link you provided is to ERIC's XJ. Who else would know more about it than the guy who did the write-up you are looking at?

Specifically, Rust-Oleum paint. Which, if properly applied to a dirty, rusty old steel differential cover will make it look all nice and shiny-like. Ya know?

Why not use a 343 or a 360? The block is the same so it's exactly the same amount of work, but you gets heads with larger valves, and a boatload more torque. In the 1967-1969 range, the 343 was the most efficient of the V8s in terms of horsepower-per-cubic-inch. Much better than the 290, and better than the 390. And the 343 in a Javelin or AMX delivered as good (or better) gas mileage as the 290s. The 390s were only available in high compression, but the 343 and 360 were available as a low compression version. Given gas prices today, I'd build a low compression 343 using a 4-barrel intake and a torquer cam, and laugh my fool head off every time I stomped on the gas.

Okay, so who has a link to those photos of the MJ with the custom FSJ nose on it?

For a Maverick? A D44? Find some Comanche Club member near you and I'll bet they'll gladly swap you a D35 for the spare D44, and you can give the D35 to your bro'. Too bad you're not closer -- I have a pile of D35s out by the shed.

What I had in mind is the dually conversion adapters that JC Whitney sells (or used to sell). They work much like deep spacers, except that they fit outside of the first set of wheels. The adapter is bolted on with the first wheel, then the outer wheel is bolted to the adapter. So it would then be a simple matter to remove the duallies and run it in stock configuration when the extra width or capacity isn't needed. Here ya go: http://answers.jcwhitney.com/answers/19 ... stions.htm

You couldn't wait even ONE hour before bumping your post? We're pretty friendly around here and we all try to help one another, but we don't all sit here 24/7 waiting for a new post to answer. Be a little polite and give people a chance, eh?

First, it's "brakes," not "breaks." The MJ system is fairly simple, except for the rear height-sensing proportioning valve. For a truck that old, you should be replacing as much as possible. If the front rotors and rear drums aren't too bad they can be turned by a brake shop or automotive machine shop to clean up the surface. Any shop that does this work will know how to measure the parts. Rotors cannot be turned to less than a minimum thickness or they aren't safe, and drums can't be turned to more than a maximum inside diameter or they aren't safe. If the shop can clean them up within the allowable tolerances, you'll have to buy new drums or rotors. For calipers, take the old ones to your favorite parts store and trade them in for rebuilt units. Wheel cylinders are not very expensive, so just buy new. For the drums, you should also buy a small parts kit -- that will include new hold-down springs, return springs, basically everything you'll need to rejuvenate the brakes. Best approach on the drums is to do one side at a time, so the other side is there as a reference. Just remember that they are mirror image. I think you are optimistic on your time estimate. Obviously, we haven't seen the vehicle so we don't know how much rust you have to deal with. If it's your first brake job, you need to work carefully, so don't try to rush it. There is a special bleeding procedure for the MJ due to the height-sensing proportioning valve over the rear axle. I've posted it on here a couple of times and other people have since posted links to the description. Be sure to follow it, it is important.

The link Pete gave you in post #4 tells you EVERYTHING you need to know.

Dually conversion, perhaps?

The original clutch in my '88 4.0L went 204,000 miles. It didn't need to be replaced, but the release bearing went so it didn't make sense to pull the tranny and transfer case and NOT do the clutch while it was accessible. I asked my retired Jeep service manager friend if there was something better than an OEM clutch I should put in. He: "How many miles do you have on that clutch?" Me: "204,000, give or take." He: "What was the question?"

They come with a tank. Some may (or may not) include a lack ring for the fuel pump mount, but they won't include the O-ring even if they include the lock ring. Mine didn't come with either one -- I bought the lock ring and the O-ring at the dealer.

$150 is what I think I remember paying two years ago. $227 sounds a little steep. But mine was the SWB version, so the tank is a little smaller.