Eagle

Result of a bad O2 sensor is a rich mix, backfiring, and destruction of the catalytic converter (either from explosive backfire, or just working too hard to catalyze the extra unburned hydrocarbons making their way downstream). In your case, I would change it and then forget it.

That's why it's a "high altitude" CPS.

Yes, I've been running high-altitude CPSs in my Renix XJ and MJ for several years. I live at the lofty altitude of 440 feet above sea level.

It is not a reminder to "check" the O2 sensor, it is a reminder to CHANGE (replace) the O2 sensor. There are posts on the Internet about resetting the timer but, like many other people, I either unplug it or remove the bulb from the cluster. Change the O2 sensor every 80,000 miles (IMHO, multiples of 75,000 are easier to remember).

Actually, it won't give any better performance. It can't. The Renix system has a knock sensor and it's set to run at the maximum advance that doesn't produce knock. As soon as the sensor detects knock, it retards the timing to stop it. Since knock occurs under load, and since "performance" typically produces load, the knock sensor is going to be retarding the timing more with the high altitude CPS than with the standard one. Where it should produce benefits is in gas mileage if you're the type who drives with a light foot on open roads without too many mountains.

Ever look at the header panels ... bare? The header panel is already set up for round headlights, what's lacking is bezels with round holes in them to fit the header panel.

I ran 31x10.50s on factory rims with a 4" lift. The front tires rubbed the frame if I turned the steering wheel all the way to full lock (actually prevented getting to full lock), but there was no interference with the front or rear sheet metal or flares. But there are NO aftermarket rims with 5-1/4" backspacing. I think the most you can find is 4-3/4". I don't know if those will clear the front sheet metal and flares. Anything 4-1/2" or less will not clear without trimming -- unless you severely limit the suspension compression so the tire just can't get the the sheet metal.

Probably a rubber boot.

Sounds like there must be a story behind that ...

I think ALL WJs have the chip. In '99 there were only the Laredo and the Limited. I had a Laredo and it had a chip. If I could possibly have ordered it without it I would have, but there was no delete option. Worst vehicle I ever owned.

Short, simple answer is that they won't fit because they are different.

Merry Christmas one and all.

As mvusse noted, the width of a Cherokee axle is exactly the same as an MJ axle. Stock Jeep rims are (usually) 15x7 with 5-1/4" backspacing. Running 31x10.50s on factory rims with no spacers, the inner sidewalls barely cleared the leaf springs in the rear but if I got the suspension at all crossed up off-road, I'd put rub marks on the inner fender panels above the axle. Fast forward to the wheels you are considering. They are 15x8 with 3-3/4" backspacing. So the inner rim will be moved outboard by 1-1/2" compared to stock wheels. But we're not done yet. An 8" wheel is an inch wider than a 7" wheel (duh!), so the centerline is one-half inch farther away from each lip. We moved the inner lip out by 1-1/2" with the backspace change, but now add another half inch for the new centerline. So with the wheels you are considering, your tires will be riding 2 inches farther out than stock -- meaning with 31x10.50s if I had about 1/4" clearance to the leaf springs, you'll have about 2-1/4". Stock tires (225/75-15) are about 9" wide. You're looking at 10.50s, which are an inch and a half wider. That's 3/4 of an inch on each side of the centerline. So, overall, your new tires will have the outer sidewalls 2-3/4" farther outboard than stock. I still think you may have problems hitting the flares and/or sheet metal, but I'm not sure.

And for the same reason I find it difficult to understand why people get so upset when you ask for the reasoning behind something. You stated you didn't want to do something, but gave no details as to why until asked. Then you criticism them for asking why. Maybe the question was asked for a reason so we can give you a better response as to what will work best in your wants/needs/desires. Maybe some of us have been there and are simply trying to offer advice (isn't that what you asked for?) before you spend money on something that you may/may not be happy with. I simply was just asking why you wanted to keep with a sealed beam headlight. Regardless of if I think a H4 type conversion is better or not I was just curious as to the reasoning you had behind not wanting to convert. I see no need to ask a question on a public forum to begin with if your not willing to get different responses. -Adam But my question asked specifically what sealed beam replacement is brightest. That leaves the field open to "Sylvania Silver Star" or "GE Super Dazzler" or whatever else might be out there in sealed beams. Discussion of H4 conversions when the question clearly stipulates sealed beams is not helpful, it's off topic. I know the intention is good ... but the result is not helpful. It's like when someone comes on a gun board and wants to know what would be a good revolver for his wife's first gun, and fifty people immediately suggest a Glock. What difference does it make WHY I want to stick with sealed beams, or why so-and-so's wife wants a revolver? It's a parameter of the question; the reason is immaterial.

They won't rub the frame. Those wheels will extend OUT considerably more than stock. Your problems are going to be sheet metal and flares.

Not that I know of. But I probably do share some common curmudgeonly lineage with him. For some reason, as I get older, I find it increasingly difficult to understand why people who don't know or don't care to respond to very clear and specific questions are nonetheless willing to waste both their and the questioner's time responding to questions that were excluded from the original question. Some psych major is probably doing a study on the phenomenon even as I type.

Brakes down to metal-on-metal?

I see no point to doing an H4 conversion if I have to keep the wattage down, and I don't care to deal with a harness upgrade at this point. I want a sealed beam because I want a sealed beam.

Aging eyes don't see as well at night. I don't want to deal with an H4 conversion at the moment but I wouldn't mind having a few more candles on the road at night. What types of non-OEM sealed beam replacements have y'all tried, and how did you like them? Sylvania Silver Stars sound good, but do they really put out more light or do they just make the like look more bluish (which would actually reduce total output)? TIA

4th would still work normally. Good call. In all honesty, I keep thinking tcase stuck in neutral, maybe linkage to selector broken somehow. Put your transfer case in neutral, keep your foot off the clutch, and try shifting from neutral to first or reverse gear with the engine running. Tell us what it sounded like.

Second the "Are you sure it has a clutch in it?" Look at this logically. You wrote that when you step on the clutch, nothing happens. But apparently you CAN shift the gears. That means that the engine is NOT connected to the transmission. Transfer case in neutral doesn't apply -- the transfer case comes after the transmission in the drive line. Even if you had no drive shaft in the vehicle, if the clutch was connecting the engine to the transmission you COULD NOT shift the gears without crunching. So the ONLY conclusion is that the clutch is NOT connecting the engine to the transmission. That means bleeding the system won't help, because if the system just needed to be bled you would not be able to shift the gears. Your problem is not that the clutch won't DISengage, your problem is that the clutch won't engage. I think you need to drop the tranny and see what's going on inside the bell housing.

If you're in Pennsylvania, I think having the tires stick out of the wheelwells might look better (that's subject to debate -- I would have to disagree), but is probably illegal. I think I might add spacers in the rear only, to match the rear to the front, but I would not run spacers all around.

The lifters are in the block, not the head.

The New Venture web site used to have a chart with the torque ratings. The 231 was marginally stronger, but not much. And I've wheeled with guys in NAXJA NAC who had 242s and never saw one break.