Eagle

Short, simple answer is that they won't fit because they are different.

Merry Christmas one and all.

As mvusse noted, the width of a Cherokee axle is exactly the same as an MJ axle. Stock Jeep rims are (usually) 15x7 with 5-1/4" backspacing. Running 31x10.50s on factory rims with no spacers, the inner sidewalls barely cleared the leaf springs in the rear but if I got the suspension at all crossed up off-road, I'd put rub marks on the inner fender panels above the axle. Fast forward to the wheels you are considering. They are 15x8 with 3-3/4" backspacing. So the inner rim will be moved outboard by 1-1/2" compared to stock wheels. But we're not done yet. An 8" wheel is an inch wider than a 7" wheel (duh!), so the centerline is one-half inch farther away from each lip. We moved the inner lip out by 1-1/2" with the backspace change, but now add another half inch for the new centerline. So with the wheels you are considering, your tires will be riding 2 inches farther out than stock -- meaning with 31x10.50s if I had about 1/4" clearance to the leaf springs, you'll have about 2-1/4". Stock tires (225/75-15) are about 9" wide. You're looking at 10.50s, which are an inch and a half wider. That's 3/4 of an inch on each side of the centerline. So, overall, your new tires will have the outer sidewalls 2-3/4" farther outboard than stock. I still think you may have problems hitting the flares and/or sheet metal, but I'm not sure.

And for the same reason I find it difficult to understand why people get so upset when you ask for the reasoning behind something. You stated you didn't want to do something, but gave no details as to why until asked. Then you criticism them for asking why. Maybe the question was asked for a reason so we can give you a better response as to what will work best in your wants/needs/desires. Maybe some of us have been there and are simply trying to offer advice (isn't that what you asked for?) before you spend money on something that you may/may not be happy with. I simply was just asking why you wanted to keep with a sealed beam headlight. Regardless of if I think a H4 type conversion is better or not I was just curious as to the reasoning you had behind not wanting to convert. I see no need to ask a question on a public forum to begin with if your not willing to get different responses. -Adam But my question asked specifically what sealed beam replacement is brightest. That leaves the field open to "Sylvania Silver Star" or "GE Super Dazzler" or whatever else might be out there in sealed beams. Discussion of H4 conversions when the question clearly stipulates sealed beams is not helpful, it's off topic. I know the intention is good ... but the result is not helpful. It's like when someone comes on a gun board and wants to know what would be a good revolver for his wife's first gun, and fifty people immediately suggest a Glock. What difference does it make WHY I want to stick with sealed beams, or why so-and-so's wife wants a revolver? It's a parameter of the question; the reason is immaterial.

They won't rub the frame. Those wheels will extend OUT considerably more than stock. Your problems are going to be sheet metal and flares.

Not that I know of. But I probably do share some common curmudgeonly lineage with him. For some reason, as I get older, I find it increasingly difficult to understand why people who don't know or don't care to respond to very clear and specific questions are nonetheless willing to waste both their and the questioner's time responding to questions that were excluded from the original question. Some psych major is probably doing a study on the phenomenon even as I type.

Brakes down to metal-on-metal?

I see no point to doing an H4 conversion if I have to keep the wattage down, and I don't care to deal with a harness upgrade at this point. I want a sealed beam because I want a sealed beam.

Aging eyes don't see as well at night. I don't want to deal with an H4 conversion at the moment but I wouldn't mind having a few more candles on the road at night. What types of non-OEM sealed beam replacements have y'all tried, and how did you like them? Sylvania Silver Stars sound good, but do they really put out more light or do they just make the like look more bluish (which would actually reduce total output)? TIA

4th would still work normally. Good call. In all honesty, I keep thinking tcase stuck in neutral, maybe linkage to selector broken somehow. Put your transfer case in neutral, keep your foot off the clutch, and try shifting from neutral to first or reverse gear with the engine running. Tell us what it sounded like.

Second the "Are you sure it has a clutch in it?" Look at this logically. You wrote that when you step on the clutch, nothing happens. But apparently you CAN shift the gears. That means that the engine is NOT connected to the transmission. Transfer case in neutral doesn't apply -- the transfer case comes after the transmission in the drive line. Even if you had no drive shaft in the vehicle, if the clutch was connecting the engine to the transmission you COULD NOT shift the gears without crunching. So the ONLY conclusion is that the clutch is NOT connecting the engine to the transmission. That means bleeding the system won't help, because if the system just needed to be bled you would not be able to shift the gears. Your problem is not that the clutch won't DISengage, your problem is that the clutch won't engage. I think you need to drop the tranny and see what's going on inside the bell housing.

If you're in Pennsylvania, I think having the tires stick out of the wheelwells might look better (that's subject to debate -- I would have to disagree), but is probably illegal. I think I might add spacers in the rear only, to match the rear to the front, but I would not run spacers all around.

The lifters are in the block, not the head.

The New Venture web site used to have a chart with the torque ratings. The 231 was marginally stronger, but not much. And I've wheeled with guys in NAXJA NAC who had 242s and never saw one break.

The motor mounts are the same, but you also have an intake issue. Your vehicle has a throttle body injection. The 2000 uses multi-port injection, so the intake manifold is completely different. I know on the 6-cylinder engines even the shape of the ports changed from Renix to Chrysler -- I don't know if that's the case for the 4-banger, but I would expect so. Is your head usable? The easiest route would be to blot your old head on the new block.

Camber is not adjustable, so I don't know what the alignment guy was going to "shim." Either you need ball joints or you have a bent axle.

The block is the same but the head has (I think) different shaped ports. If the 2000 engine includes the exhaust manifold you should be okay. Keep in mind, though, the 2000 will be set up for multi-port injection and you have throttle body, so unless you plan to rewire the vehicle you'll need to swap in your old intake. And the flywheel (or flex plate) won't work with the Renix CPS.

I'm on the third blower fan in the '88, and now that colder weather is here it's howling like a banshee. Probably won't last the winter, so I should do something now. Junkyard fans don't last long, but you can't get new ones from the factory. However, you can get bare motors from the parts houses. I looked at replacing the motor when the original died, and I couldn't figure out how to get the impeller off the shaft. Has anybody done this? If so, how you you do it?

5/16" IIRC. And IIRC there are two each of two different lengths.

The pressure on the sidewall is the maximum pressure, not the recommended pressure.

30 psi

On the 87s (and 88s and 89s and 90s) the ignition key is a 6-bit key and the door keys are 5-bit keys. It is not possible to make a key that will operate the ignition and the doors. Those years were two-key years and there's no easy way around it. If you remove the door cylinders and take them to a locksmith, he can easily make new keys to work those locks, but they won't be the same as the ignition key.

Trying to ues the XJ mounts would be a VERY bad idea. The upper mounts on the MJ are studs that run perpendicular to the long axis of the chassis. So do the stock lower mounts, and that allows the shocks to rotate as the expand and compress. The XJ axle mounts have the studs running parallel to the chassis axis, which would not allow the shocks to rotate properly.

Check your headlight grounds. My guess is that the headlights are grounding back through the parking lights.