Eagle

You should be able to use spider gears out of any dana 35 from a junkard. Put up a post in the Classifieds and somebody probably has a junk axle around that hasn't been tossed yet and they can pull the spiders for you. {EDIT}Any Dana 35 from the years 1986 through 1989. Your axle is (or should be) a non C-clip axle. In 1990 Chrysler switched to a C-clip design and I don't think the spider gears are the same. (Not sure on that.)

As Hornbrod wrote, part #17 does not need to be replaced "Unless you have a lot of side to side slop in the driveshaft yoke ..." If you have enough slop that a new seal was destroyed in a short time, you might need to replace part #17.

Factory spec for the 4.0L and the 2.5L is 13 psi minimum at idle, and 37 to 75 psi above 1500 RPM. Most 4.0L engines with under 100,000 miles will typically run 50 to 55 psi at about 60 or 65 MPH, which is around 2,000 RPM. The pressure should go up a bit as the RPMs increase, so a 2.5L should be expected to run a bit higher due to the gearing. As the mileage adds up, the bearings wear and oil pressure will probably drop. My '88 XJ 4.0L with 287,000 miles on it has been running about 40 psi at highway speed and 30 at idle for several years. No funny noises coming from deep inside the engine, so I just keep on truckin'.

None of the highlighted statements above are correct. My '88 Cherokee has the dreaded BA10/5 Peugeot transmission. It now has 287,000 miles on it and it's running fine. It has been wheeled all over New England and at Paragon in Pennsylvania, wearing 30" and 31" tires through stock gears (not an ideal combo for wheeling, I know, but harder on the tranny). I have carried loads heavy enough to be riding on the bump stops -- from Connecticut to New Mexico. The XJ has a class III hitch on it and has towed some heavy loads. The tranny may not stand up to driving it like you stole it, but most manual trannies won't. That's not use, that's abuse. Slamming shifts wears or breaks synchronizers. I have an MJ with an AX-15 and I have a 2000 XJ with an NVG 3550. Just like the Peugeot, they HATE shifting from first to second, and if you repeatedly bang the 1-2 shift the tranny will be toast in a matter of days. That's not a condemnation of the tranny 0-- that's a fact. In fact, the same was also true of my first AMC Javelin. When the Javelin first came out in late 1967 (as a 1968 model), the 4-speed behind the V8s was a wide-ratio Borg-Warner T10, The ratio split sucked, and shifting fast from first to second detroyed the synchro. By early 1968 they had switched to a close-ratio gear set, and that problem pretty much went away. I used the wide ratio set for road racing, and the close ratio set for drag racing.

The AX-15 and the AX-5 are (were) made by Aisin-Seiki, a Japanese company. The AX-5 is a lighter-duty, slightly smaller version of the AX-15. The AX-5 was used in the 4-cylinder XJs and MJs, the AX-15 was used with the 6-cylinder engine. If you could find a way to install an AX-5 behind a 4.0L, it wouldn't last very long at all. But ... since the bell housing is smaller and has a different bolt pattern, you would need a custom adapter to install it.

The NVG3550 is a truck transmission with an (almost) granny first gear -- first is MUCH lower than on the BA10/5 or the AX-15. I have a 2000 Cherokee with the 3550. It's a great transmission ... but it won't take kindly to speed shifting. Drive it that way and you'll destroy second gear (or the second gear synchro) in about a week.

I guess if you're installing a different yoke you should replace the crush sleeve. I know the dealships don't replace it when doing a pinion seal. The procedure for crushing the sleeve is based on the torque (in inch-pounds) needed to rotate the pinion gear in the housing, but with the axle all assembled that can't be measured. The torque needed to crush the sleeve is around 250 foot-pounds, so when doing a pinion seal they usually just torque it back to around 175 to 200 foot-pounds and call it good. Since it doesn't sound like you want to disassemble your differential (and I don't blame you), I think you could probably follow the same procedure.

Why do you need to replace the crush sleeve if the bearing isn't bad and doesn't need replacement?

I have found that the 10mm bolt fits a new track bar perfectly, but if the old one was allowed to slop around too much the hole in the axle bracket may become enlarged. The factory setup uses a nut with a tab, which makes life much easier. On my '88 MJ, I found a double thick, heavy pattern, hardened 10mm washer and a friend welded that to the fact of the backet for me. No more problems. Consider that a 10mm bolt is .3937" in diameter. A 7/16" bolt is .4375". That's a difference of .0438, which is 3/64 of an inch. If you have to drill out the 10mm hole to allow for that amount of difference, how much slop could there really be? Not much.

If you use the Cheroke axle in the MJ, you will have to move the spring percehes whether you go spring under OR spring over, because the width between the perches is different. If you go spring over on the MJ, the resulting lift will be 5-1/2 to 6 inches, not 3. And with the change from 4x2 to 4x4 AND to an automatic, your driveshaft will almost certainly not be the right length. The Cherokee driveshaft will be much too short, so it's not even a consideration.

That's a great price for the complete set.

I've posted this before, but we'll do it again. As before, this comes from the manuscrip of a book I am (or was) writing, and this IS copyrighted. In posting this exerpt here I am NOT releasing it into the public domain and I am NOT giving anyone permission to copy it or to reproduce it on any other site or forum. Please have the courtesy to respect my copyright. For some reason the quote function isn't working for me, so the following will not appear in a quote box: In general, the parts to be concerned with in keeping the front brakes compatible are the steering knuckles, the hub/bearing assemblies, the rotors, and the calipers. (There is a more complete enumeration of the interrelationship of these parts in Chapter 6, Axles.) Only two steering knuckle designs were used: 1984 through 1989, and 1990 through 2001. Left and right side knuckles are different part numbers within each group. Three different hub/bearing units were used. The hub/bearing units are the same for both sides of the vehicle. The different years for hub/bearing assemblies were: 1984 through 1989; 1990 through mid-1999 (composite rotors); and late-1999 through 2001 (cast rotors). Three rotor types were used: 1984 through 1989; 1990 through mid-1999 (composite); and late-1999 through 2001 (cast). Only two caliper types were used: 1984 through 1989, and 1990 through 2001. Left and right side calipers are different part numbers within each group.

The screws and nylon clips usually come as an assembly. All the aftermarket ones I've seen were too short, and I had to buy genuine Jeep parts. That was awhile ago, and I don't know if Mopar still has them in the system.

Oops. That's right. I completely forgot that the 2.5L got EFI a year earlier than the introduction of the 4.0L.

But the 2.5L was introduced in 1984, in the Cherokee. Yes, it was carbureted in 84, 85 and I believe in 86.

Interesting, but not responsive to the OP's request.

I don't consider the MJ brakes to be marginal. The base payload for an MJ was 1475 pounds. Your original post said the car will weigh 2100 pounds. I don't think a dolly weighs anywhere near 900 pounds. As I wrote, I towed a complete LWB MJ on a dolly behind my SWB MJ with the stock brakes (Dana 35 axle, so I have the smaller 1-3/4x10" brakes). My tow was farther than 20 miles and involved hilly terrain (which is all we have around here). I had zero problems.

Obviously, something about the way you connected the wires for the '99 front clip isn't compatible with the original chassis wiring in your truck and you have a short circuit. That's the easy part -- the trick is to figure out where. I think I would begin by removing ALL the light bulbs in the front -- the headlights, parking lights, and side markers. Then try stepping on the brake and see if the fuse blows. It probably will, but -- if not -- replace one bulb at a time until it blows, and that will tell you what circuit to trace. Since shorts typically occur upstream of devices (light bulbs, in this case), the above may not show you anything. If not, then the next step is to unplug the connectors feeding each light bulb from the harness. Step on the brakes. Hoefully no blown fuse. If that works, plug in one light at a time until you find the one that causes a blown fuse, then trace that circuit.

That's about a 32" diameter tire. I couldn't fit a 31" tire under mine. So I'd say it won't fit. Odd. I carried a 31x10.50-15 under my '88 shortbed for several years. It fit fine, but I don't think anything larger would fit.

Quadratec or any of the on-line body parts vendors should have the headlight bezels and the front flares. There is no known source for the rear flares for the MJ -- only junkyards. If someone tries to tell you that the rear flares for a 2-door Cherokee work -- they don't. Cherokee rear flares are smaller, and the 2-door and 4-door Cherokees used the same flares.

You mean "driveshaft." The driveline (or "drive train") is everything that connects the engine to the rear wheels.

I thought the trim was stainless.

Chrysler 8-1/4 from a 97 or newer XJ. If it's from a 4.0L auto you get 3.55 gears, if you find a 4-banger you get 4.10s. Width is perfect, yoke is correct for the MJ driveshaft u-joints. Just relocate the axle perches and bolt it in. It's less work than the Ford 8.8, and very nearly as strong as the D44.

I actually bought a set of NEW tires today -- for the first time in over 20 years. Since then I've always rolled on either whatever came on a Jeep, or run tires that were either bought as used tires, or that came on Jeep alloy rims I bought. But ... The new-to-us 2001 XJ was wearing a set of the OEM Wrangler RT/S tires. They still had decent tread, but my friend Eric noticed that the sidewalls on a couple were cracking. When I looked more closely, I saw that all four were cracked. And my wife is currently using that vehicle so I don't want to take any chances. So, I went shopping. And I found that Goodyear no longer offers either the original Wrangler Radial or the Wrangler RT/S in a 225/75-15 size. But Wal-Mart has in stock original Wrangler Radials in 235/75R15 for $87 each. Did some research on Tire rack's web site and found that the Wrangler RT/S and the newer Wrangler they're putting on Jeep Liberties get horrible reviews, but the original Wrangler Radial gets great reviews. So ... I bought a set of five. The speedo previously read a bit faster than true road speed anyway, so this should make the speedo just about dead nuts accurate, and provide a scintilla of extra road clearance. Why is it that the good stuff always gets discontinued, and the replacements are never as good?

I think you need limit straps on the suspension.