Eagle

Yep, that's for sure a Cherokee hitch. The Comanche hitch has three holes on each side in the vertical end plates, and bolts to the side of each frame rail.

I'm replying from a McDonald's in another town. My town is currently 69% out of power -- which is UP from 62% on Tuesday. LOTs of trees down, so I have to figure the utility deenergized the whole friggin' system to allow tree crews to get stuff off the lines without having to wait for a power crew to denergize on a street-by-street basis. The irony is that we were out for a week just a year ago, and people were hopping mad about the piss-poor response from the power companies. So the state passed a new law, that if the power companies miss their projected repair times, they get fined. So, naturally -- as of Wednesday night (almost 48 hours after the peak of the storm), there IS no projected forecast for repair. They'll let us know on Thursday (they say). And my emergency generator just died. Engine runs strong -- no juice. Anybody know if an older Coleman 5000 watt generator uses replaceable brushes?

The big deal with this storm was mostly storm surge. All four coastal counties in Connecticut were hammered. Houses ripped off foundations, or just opened up on the water side. I'm 15 miles inland, and 450 feet above sea level. Lots of trees down around town, and as of 8:30 p.m. on Tuesday my town is 62% out of power. The next town south (closer to the water, but still not "shoreline") is 75% out. But Tuesday was a beautiful day, with lightovercast and some sun, and the "wind" was down to a pleasant breeze. So work on clean-up and repair could get started. Don't even want to think about the construction site where I work. It's about 100 yards from New Haven harbor, with a ground elevation of about 10 feet. The prediction was a 13+ foot surge on top of the full moon high tide, so I expect things will be a bit ... soggy. Only good news is that the building goesn't have a basment.

I'm sure there's a question in there somewhere, but I'll be danged if I can figure out what you're asking. I don't mean to sound crotchety, but I AM a crotchety senior citizen. The English language uses capital letters, punctuation, and sentences so other people can understand what you're writing. Try it -- it'll help immensely.

Wait -- in your first post you said it starts but won't stay running. If it starts, it has fuel pressure when cranking. Run a jumper wire (at least a 14-gauge or 12-gauge) directly from the battery to the hot side of the fuel pump, then start it and see if it stays running. Or just turn on the ignition and use a 12-volt test light or multimeter to probe the wire feeding the fuel pump to see if it is getting electricity.

You can run 31x10.50s with NO lift, and it looks good. In fact, I am currently doing so on the '88 XJ, and the rear wheel wells are bigger on the MJ. So, if you want to keep the ride height as close to stock as possible (which is always a good idea), don't do anything, just mount up the 31s (on factory Jeep rims) and drive it. That alone will give you about a 1-inch "lift." If you need a touch more, you can get 3/4" spacers for the front coils. They'll pop right in without needing a lot of other mods, and since the rear of an MJ usually sits higher than the front, a 3/4" lift in the front only won't look stupid.

That's usually what happens with a bad ballast resister. have you tried bypassing it, or hot-wiring the fuel pump?

Snap-On used to have a universal scanner that could be used with the Renix Jeeps. It cost over $3000 back when it was available (maybe it still is, but I'd be surprised), and the Renix ECU doesn't store codes so it was of limited usefulness. Pretty much all tests for the renix system can be run using a ten dollar multi-meter from Harbor Freight Tools.

The problem is that the sensor in the HOs is not a "switch." It doesn't have an OFF and an ON condition. It's a variable resistance sensor. You could use the temp sender for an early (Renix) XJ or MJ with idiot lights, but that won't turn on the fan until the temperature is already too high. IMHO your easiest "fix" (at least for now) is to wire a toggle switch to control the aux fan relay. Watch your gauge, and flip the switch if the gauge reads higher that 210 degrees (straight up).

Input shaft spline count. Jeep changed to the AX-15 5-speed in mid-1989. That changed the transfer case input shaft from 21 splines to 23 splines. As to idiots -- A number of years a NAXJA friend from NJ contacted me about a 2000 XJ that was for sale in Connecticut at a very good price. He was interested in it for his wife. It happened to be at a small used car dealer near where I was working at the time, so I headed over after work to look at it. It was advertised as a 6-cylinder Sport. It had some kind of decals on the side I had never seen before and have never seen since. Something about surfing. They were well-done and looked factory-ish, but I haven't ever found reference to a Cherokee surfer edition. The next clue that there might be a problem was that the instrument cluster was all idiot lights -- which meant it could not be a Sport. Sales drone came out, opened the doors, popped the hood ... and there sat a 2.5L I-4. I asked him if this was really the vehicle they were advertising, since it clearly wasn't a 6-cylinder. Now ... get ready, and DON'T have a mouthful of coffee ... "This is the only Cherokee we have right now. I don't know what happened ... it had six cylinders when we brought it in here." And then he proceeded to carefully inspect the driver's side of the engine, as if he expected to find two stealth spark plugs hiding under the intake manifold. But, even though it was NOT a Sport as advertised, and was NOT a 6-cylinder as advertised, they absolutely refused to lower their price. So I recommended to my friend that he pass, which he did.

Yes. Much easier to just lock the CAD in the engaged position unless you need the strength of the one-piece axle shaft for off-road use with large tires.

Could be, but I have a fairly hard-and-fast rule against answering ads for Jeep parts from people who don't know what engine is in their vehicle.

The factory shipped them with the block heater cord tied up in a bundle and zip tied on top of the intake manifold. Each owner feeds it out wherever they find convenient.

My wife doesn't understand, but this is why I maintain the "fleet" of genuine XJs and MJs. Unfortunately, I got pretty well shafted on the 2001 XJ I bought earlier this year, but since then I found a small used car dealer in the town where I used to live who specializes in Cherokees. Haven't sprung it on my wife yet, but I am seriously thinking of picking up two more late-model XJs. One will be maintained as an XJ, the other will be a donor to update a Comanche to HO specs.

The "new" 2001 XJ is throwing codes at me again. One that pops up persistently is small evaporative leak. I keep thinking that's the fuel filler cap, and when I pay attention and click it several times rather than the one or two clicks I use on the other XJs it seems to keep the light at bay -- mostly. But there's a new trick. This one popped up once a number of weeks ago, never came back after I cleared it, but now it pops up almost every day. P0705 -- PRNDL sensor error. What the heck kind of sensor does the PRNDL have, and why would it be throwing error codes at me?

mnkyboy beat me to it, but there was no 4.0L engine in any 1985 XJ. In 1985 it was either the 2.5L I-4 or the 2.8L V-6. Keep looking for a 1987 through 1989 231.

The NP207 should bolt up to a Peugeot tranny (I think) but it won't work with an AX-15. It's not a great transfer case. The low range is not as low as the NP231 used from 87 through the end of XJ production, and the internal oiling is not as good. Try it if you already have it, but I wouldn't seek it out if your looking to convert a 2WD into a 4WD.

The aux fan does not come on at 210 degrees. 210 is the normal operating temperature. The aux fan doesn't kick on until something like 230 or 240 degrees (or the dash gauge).

That sensor has nothing to do with the aux. fan -- it only controls the gauge. The sensor for the aux fan is the large(ish) plug halfway up the driver's side radiator tank, with two moderately heavy-gauge wires coming off it.

I don't think you have a bad ground. All the gauges in the Renix cluster are energized by sensors with a range of 0 to 88 ohms. Zero ohms (no resistance) is empty -- 88 ohms (max resistance) is full. Disconnecting the sender creates an infinite (very high) resistance, which would peg the gauge. Yours does that. A bad ground would create an open circuit, and that would do the same thing -- the gauge would read full all the time. If the gauge reads empty, the circuit is sensing zero ohms (no resistance). That's either a bad sender, or a short circuit in the wiring.

IMHO the copper Champion truck plugs are a good second choice, but standard NGKs (not platinum) are best in the XJ/MJ engines.

Your post says you have a '90 MJ. The photo shows that you have swapped in a late-model front clip. Did you by any chance change to a newer wiring harness? Where is the temp sender you changed located?

http://comancheclub.com/topic/35553-need-help-buying-new-shocks/page__hl__shocks See post number 4

Clogged catalytic converter.

This. I go to a shop owned by car nuts, and who happen to own (or used to own) both an AMX and a Comanche Eliminator. They are friends. When I have asked about windshields, they are careful to ask if I want a low price, or if I want to see through it. Low price gets what they call "off-shore" glass. Higher price gets American glass, with far fewer imperfections.