Eagle

Fine, but that's not death wobble.

It's NOT death wobble if you can drive it long enough to accelerate through it. In fact, I don't think it is possible to accelerate death wobble away. You have tire shimmy, which is caused by poor tire balance. One does NOT accelerate when death wobble strikes. One holds on for dear life, hits the brakes, and prays.

Okay, I guess the OP is looking for both a window unit and a weatherstrip gasket. The originals are tough. I have one that needs one side pane and the center piece. I was going to have a friend who owns a glass shop make them up ... until I looked at it closely and realized that the glass is NOT flat. That complicates matters tremendously. I'm not sure how the rubber trim gasket relates to the window unit, but the gasket is not what holds the window into the body. It's glued in with urethane adhesive.

But he's looking for the gasket (which is actually just trim, since it doesn't provide the weather seal), and this replacement window specifies that it does NOT come with the weatherstrip. In passing, I also think it's sort of disingenuous (as in "a lie") for them to call this a direct replacement when it isn't even close. The original has three panels; this has four. The original used curved glass, and I'll bet this uses flat glass. It might work sort of okay and it might be sort of half decent but -- direct replacement? I think not.

They aren't plentiful. Two, maybe three years ago I would see two or three fairly nice looking late model XJs on every independent used car lot I drove by. I haven't seen one in almost a year. There's a small used car emporium a couple of towns over that used to specialize in Cherokees. I looked at his web site the other day. Several Grand Cherokees, a bunch of other stuff, and two unspectacular Cherokees. Get 'em while you can. I'm going to keep my fleet running just as long as humanly possible.

But ... but ... but ... It has a 7-slot grille, what's yer problem? That's what makes it a Jeep, right? Right? RIGHT?

It's an inch-pound torque wrench. Rather than hold the yoke and tighten the nut on the shaft, you let the yoke rotate and measure how much torque is needed (in INCH-pounds, not foot pounds) to make the pinion shaft rotate.

Yeppers. That'll do it ...

So what was the problem? Share, Mate -- that's how we all learn.

I used the be a Dallas Cowboys fan, back when I cared just a smidge about professional football. I read an article about the Cowboys recently and my first reaction was, "Tony WHO? And he's been their 'star' quarter back for HOW many years?"

Agreed. Most likely a freeze plug. If it's not that, then maybe head gasket, but those usually leak between cylinders and dump coolant into the combustion chambers, resulting in steam out the tailpipe. But ... not always.

I believe the seatbelt bolts are special. The threaded portion is smaller in diameter than the smooth portion of the shank, so when the shoulder of the bolt bottoms out the belt can rotate around the shaank. I don't think you'll find them in a Sears hardware store. Try a junkyard, or Comanche Club member.

Jim, what's your operating system? My desktop is still on Windows XP. In that, I open the Start menu, go to "All Programs," and find the program I want. Right click on the program, and you get a pop-up menu. One of the choices is "Create Shortcut." Click that and it puts a shortcut in the menu, right where you are. Simply click-and-drag that shortcut to the desktop and you're done. If you want to get fancy, you can then right click the shortcut on the desktop to rename it and/or to change the icon. There should be a similar procedure in Vista and Windows 7. Dunno anything about Windoze 8.

I don't think there are any drive-in theaters left in Connecticut. All the ones I went to as a kid have long-since disappeared.

What does it look like? For an '87 2.5L, I believe there should be only two gaskets in the exhaust system. The first is the round "donut" gasket where the down pipe meets the header/exhaust manifold outlet, and the other is a rectangular gasket with four bolt holes surrounding the center hole -- that one is for where the down pipe outlet mates to the inlet side of the catalytic converter.

Not sure, but I don't think you can buy sliders for a longbed MJ pre-made. Certainly not those for a Cherokee. All Cherokees have the same wheelbase, whether it's a 2-door or a 4-door, and the Cherokee wheelbase is shorter than the shortbed Comanche. Also, the Cherokee "frame" uder the rear part of the passenger compartment is different from the Comanche because the Comanche has a Cherokee-like unibody for the cab but morphs to a conventional frame for the bed.

The down pipe goes into the catalytic converter. It uses a 4-bolt flange and it requires a gasket. The catalytic converter then connects to the muffler, using a conventional male/female slip joint and muffler clamp. The exhaust pipe fits into the muffler outlet, again using a conventional muffler clamp. See post #5.

It can happen, but I believe Oyaji's concern is that doing so may damage the block to such extent as to leave it unusable as a base for a rebuild. The problem is, I suppose, if it's not your vehicle or your engine, how can you know whether or not a used engine will be suitable before you invest a bunch of cash into buying it and starting the work on it.

Obviously, your career must not have been with AMC. ;) "Back in the day," at one time (around 1981 or '82) I stumbled into possession of a $50 1968 Javelin with the 232 c.i.d. version of the 4.0L's predecessor. I don't remember where I bought it, or why I bought it, but I did ... and it didn't run. I pulled the head, reamed the carbon ridge off the top of each cylinder, honed them with the engine in the car, and slapped the head back on. I went all out and even used a NEW head gasket. Ran like a top. Those engines are as close to indestructible as you'll ever find.

Woooo-weeee! A 5.9L Limited. You are one lucky dog. Those are sweeeeeeet! However, I hope you're prepared to feed it. One thing they are NOT famous for is fuel economy.

Having at one time been the owner of a Javelin that had been overheated severely enough to take the temper out of the rings, IMHO once that happens you don't drive the vehicle enough to start damaging the block. With rings that have lost their temper, there is VERY low compression, so the engine kind of chugs along and doesn't make any power. It "runs," but not well enough to be useful. In any case, it's easily checked with an inside micrometer to measure for out of round, and scoring is visible.

The 4" lift that was on my '88 MJ when I bought it used a single, short AAL on each side to generate 4 inches of lift. Rode like a ... truck. But it can be done. With a couple of longer leaves from something like an older S-10 or Dakota, maybe even YJ Wrangler (anything that's spring-under), it should be easy, and would have to ride better than a single, stiff, short AAL.

The Renix-era engines are not prone to overheating. The problem is that owners of Renix-era XJs and MJs do not understand the "closed" system. They let the radiator get clogged, or they don't understand that the plastic bottle on the firewall is a pressure vessel and that, if it's leaking, the cooling system isn't working. The engines themselves are no more prone to overheating than any other generation of the AMC I-6.

the way the haynes manual says, gravity bled, and the way my dad used to do it when he way a kid, so purdy much everyway possible, Redwolf I don't have a Haynes manual, so that tells me nothing. And I have no idea how your father used to do it when he was a kid. There are many wrong ways to do it, and only one correct way. Since you started out being able to shift into the higher gears and ended up not being able to get ANY gear, obviously you went backwards and did something to make it worse. We can't tell you if what you did was right or wrong if you don't tell us what you did.

If it isn't a tilt column, then there is no play "in" the steering column. Check the attachment of the column to the dashboard.