Eagle

4 liters is 244 cubic inches. Plug that into the formula, use 5,000 as the peak RPM, and do the math. But WHY would you use a carburetor on a 4.0L when the EFI is so much better? we don't know if the computer for the 4,0 works, just a back up option if it don't, Redwolf That's an expensive backup. You'll need a new fuel pump, because carburetors only want about 5 to 7 psi, not 40. You'll need a new distributor, because the one in the 4.0L Jeeps is controlled by the ECU. You'll probably need a new coil to go with the new distributor. And you'll need an intake manifold on which to mount the (expensive) new carburetor. I'd say you're looking at between $500 and $750, minimum, all to avoid buying a used or reconditioned ECU for a Renix 4.0L that you can probably find for $25. Doesn't sound like a great plan to me.

You are over-thinking, and worrying about things that don't need to be worried about. The u-bolts are 14mm diameter. Even at the weakest grade for carbon steel, the tensile strength is 58,000 psi. Each u-bolt will support 13,837 pounds in tension -- and there are four u-bolts per vehicle. That's 55,348 pounds. The load on the rear springs of a fully-loaded metric ton Comanche is how much? 2,800 pounds? 3,000 pounds at most. That's a safety factor of 18.45:1. The greatest safety factor I can recall hearing about in structural engineering class was 6:1. How many MJs have you ever seen with the axle fallen out because the u-bolts broke?

Shackle bolts are 14mm, but if you clean out the inside of the bushing sleeve really well and coat the bolt with anti-seize, you can use 9/16" grade 8 bolts. I know it works because I did it to get a friend's Cherokee back on the road. He had been swapping springs around, and he LOST the bolts. :doh:

4 liters is 244 cubic inches. Plug that into the formula, use 5,000 as the peak RPM, and do the math. But WHY would you use a carburetor on a 4.0L when the EFI is so much better?

Return the JKS shackles, buy a small manual wire brush and a small, cup-style power wire brush. Brush 'em up in place, apply two coats of Rustoleum, then let the shop do their thing. When you get it back, touch up any nicks they put in the paint and add a third coat.

I almost posted that^^ word for word!! LOL. You probably remember, too. When I bought my '88 XJ new, the service manager at the stealership was a racing buddy, and I hung out in the shop fairly often. Back then there were still a lot of 84, 85 and 86 Cherokees on the road, and every time I went to the dealer's shop there would be another one with a connecting rod blown through the side of the block. You DON'T beat on the 2.8L engine. (And what many people consider to be normal driving, unfortunately, is "beating on it" for the 2.8.)

What were you expecting for $500?

5,000 RPM. And you probably will never actually take it that high. If you do, you'll only do it once and after the engine blows up a carburetor will be the least of your worries. Why do you think we used 5,500 and 5,000 RPM in the examples? You need a 300 CFM carburetor. That Weber kit in Cruiser's link looks like just what you need.

See posts number 2 and 3.

Rust on the underside of the driver's side floor pan. Signs of leakage at the lower rear corner of the two wing vent windows. Signs of the heater core leaking. Check for small (or large!!!) cracks where the upper hinge of the driver's door is welded to the body pillar. Looks like it has a tilt wheel. Test the tilt mechanism -- they sometimes work loose.

Yep. They were snake oil when they were sold for carburetors. Considering that multi-port injection squirts the fuel into the combustion chamber, and the air flow into the chamber is controlled by the intake valve, it is essentially impossible for these gadgets to have any real effect aside from lightening the owner's bank account.

500 CFM is too big for a 2.8L. Using the formula above, for your engine it would be: 170 x 5500 / 3456 = 270.5 CFM In reality, you probably won't be operating at 5500 RPM anyway, so that 270 CFM for practical purposes will be 245. A 500 CFM carburetor will be twice as much flow as you'll ever need.

Above is an example of several possibilities or offerings. I'm considering a '97 2.5 complete non-running engine that is about 2 hours away for $180. If it's not sold by Fri I'll pick it up over the weekend. My theory is this- I want to rebuild a core that is complete as a factory engine, keeping the crank and rods and head together. Theory being that if a rotating assembly that has been mated for 10 years and 100K miles.....it is a proven assembly. VS. Acquiring an assortment of parts from assorted engines........ie......crank kit.....etc..... I'm also concerned about buying parts that have been machined by unknown machine shops. If it were you......? Thanks Whatever makes you feel happy. But consider what is actually "mated" in an internal combustion engine. The rods and pistons basically don't contact the block, the "mated" parts are the rod bearings and piston rings. The crank doesn't mate directly to the block, it only "matesd" to the crank bearings. If you're doing a rebuild, you'll be replacing the rod and main bearings and piston rings anayway, so any previous mating will be gone, and you start from ground zero. Hopefully the pistons never touch the head, and in a rebuild you check the head for flatness and have it trued if it's not flat, so mating the head to the block isn't a requirement. And the head and block don't actually "mate" anyway -- there's a gasket separating them.

Yes, the new one could be bad. It's an electrical part, and it's not uncommon for such to be bad out of the box.

How many miles on the engine? If the noise is louder when the oil is hot (thinner), I would suspect a rod knock. It's a bit of a PITA but you can replace the bearings in situ by just dropping the pan.

Correct. And my preference would be to put the best tires on the front. The front does all the steering and the major part of the braking -- I like to have some ccontrol over my vehicle when driving. I'm gonna have to disagree with you on that one. The way I was taught, the best tires are always put on the rear, for this reason: http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoTiresRear.do This is regardless of front or rear wheel drive. Yeah, I know there are people out there who want to put the best tires on the rear, even with rear wheel drive. I've never agreed with that, it defies logic, and real world experience proves the opposite. You're welcome to disagree, but that article isn't going to change my opinion that's based on driving for 54 years and well over a million miles. (Closing in on my second million, but I don't think I'll ever quite get there.) The article assumes you can steer with the front wheels. In the real world, if you don't have decent tread in front you CAN'T steer -- especially in wet weather or snow. If your front, treadless tires hydroplane, you're going off the road. The difference is you go off nose first and smash head-on into whatever's out there, rather than maybe fishtailing and sliding off the road sideways.

Wrong. The fan gets full voltage when the switch is set to high speed. For the other speeds, the power goes through resistors, which reduce the voltage to the fan, which is what makes it run slower. Test the voltage with the switch in each position and you should get different voltages. If you do, your resistor pack is good and the switch is good, so the problem is either the fan, or the ground. Do you have a battery charger? If so, try hot wiring the new fan to the charger and see if it runs. Or -- remove the negative cable from the MJ battery and hot wire the fan directly to the battery. See if it runs. If not ==> the fan is the problem. If so ==> the ground must be the problem.

What position is the switch in when you try to run it? If it won;t run on slow or medium but will run on full speed, the problem is the resistor pack in the air box (over the front passenger's feet).

Correct. And my preference would be to put the best tires on the front. The front does all the steering and the major part of the braking -- I like to have some ccontrol over my vehicle when driving.

I've never seen a tire shop that didn't use burp guns, for removing and installing tires. Which is why I never take my car to a shop for tires. I take the wheels (with old tires, if applicable) to the shop in the back of another vehicle and have the shop mount the tires and balance them. Then **I** put them back on the vehicle, by hand. With a torque wrench.

Why don't you swap in a GM 3.4L V6 from a mid-90s Camaro or Trans Am? Same basic block as the 2.8L so it'll drop right in, but a much better engine.

Rotate the headlight switch. It has a dimmer function, and all the way in one direction (I don't recall which direction) is OFF. Also, with age the dimmer coil develops dead spots, and turning the knob a short distance in either direction will often take it off the dead spot.

If the radio doesn't save settings, then whatever you're using as a feed for the memory circuit is not a constant-on feed, but switched by the ignition key. Take that wire and run it directly to something like the clock circuit on the fuse panel. I put a Pioneer in my '88 MJ and I had no problems, but it was so long ago that I have no recollection of how I wired it.

Ohio - the Air Force Museum at the air base in Dayton. You can easily spend between a half day and a full day right there. If your route will take you anywhere near St. Louis, be sure to stop and check out the arch. It's run by the National Park Service. Observation chamber at the very top, museum underground between the two "feet." There's a lot of things/places worth seeing between Ohio and Colorado, but I would have to reflect on what I've seen and when before offering other suggestions.

That could be the first time I ever saw the word "finagling" actually spelled. If it has an overflow hose how does it hold pressure? The same way a radiator does -- with a pressure cap. The cap has a heavy spring to resist pressure, but when the pressure reaches the rated point the cap allows coolant to escape into the catch bottle. The cap also has a return check valve with a very WEAK spring, so as the system cools and the coolant contracts, it can suck the coolant back out of the catch bottle. Which essentially turns a closed system into an open system. The Moroso aluminum bottle I put in my '88 XJ works the same way.