Eagle

Are you certain you set the #1 cylinder to TDC on the compression stroke and not the exhaust stroke?

Yes, it would.

The AX-15 is also picky on fluids. Having owned and driven XJs and MJs with the BA 10/5, the AX-15, and the NV3550, IMHO it's a no-brainer: go with the NV3550. It's a far better transmission.

You can attach bucket seats to the bench seat pedestals, but you won't be able to move the passenger seat forward and back unless you weld on a lever for the adjuster mechanism.

1987 through 1990 will all work. 1990 front brakes are different.

I'm pretty certain the FSM says to leave it compressed until after you have installed it and bled it. After bleeding, the first time you use the clutch will break the tabs.

Don't overlook the rear height-sensing proportioning valve. If it has been disconnected or improperly adjusted, it may be reducing the amount of braking to the rear to almost nothing.

There was usually a factory build sheet placed either under the seat (between the metal springs and the pad), or inside the drover's door, behind the trim panel. The eighth character of the VIN also indicates the trim package. What's your VIN?

Okay, you have your terminology reversed. Your clutch is engaged, and won't disengage. That's why you can't shift with the engine running. The problem is probably the slave cylinder. It could also be the hose that connects the master to the slave, or it could be the master. If it's the hose, you're lucky because you don't have to drop the tranny to replace the hose.

Have you checked to see if air comes out of the top of the dash when the front vents seem to slow down? Does it happen mostly when going uphill or under load? The ventilation system is controlled by vacuum. The system is set up such that when vacuum is lost, the flapper doors default to sending air to the defrost outlets on the top of the dashboard. Loss of vacuum is usually caused by deterioration of the hoses to the vacuum reservoir behind the front bumper on the passenger side, or by damage to the reservoir itself.

Does the blower really slow down, or does the air start coming out of the defrost outlets on top of the dashboard when you're going uphill?

If the clutch won't engage, the engine runs, you can shift into any gear, and the truck won't move. That doesn't sound like what you were describing. Can you give more details of the failure? You were on a freeway. Were you driving, or stopped somewhere? Did the clutch just suddenly stop transferring power to the transmission?

Please clarify -- The clutch would engage ... or the clutch wouldn't DISengage?

Don't think so. I've never seen anything like those wheels in any Jeep showroom, and they don't look like any of the wheels in yiur parts link.

You probably also have more bad gas in the tank. Remember, water is denser than gasoline -- it settles to the bottom of the tank, which happens to be where the pickup is located. In addition to checking (or, better yet, just replacing) the sock, you may need to siphon all the fuel out of the tank to be sure there's no more water in the bottom.

If you didn't install an adjustable track bar with the lift, that's your next purchase. A 4-1/2" lift will drag the front axle off center toward the driver's side by almost an inch. Some people try to "fix" that by drilling a new hole in the bracket at the axle end. IMHO that's a Bubba fix -- the correct way to do it is an adjustable track bar. Once the axle is properly centered, THEN you can use the drag link to center the steering wheel. [EDIT}I see from your parts list that you did use a Rusty's adjustable track bar. Be sure you have it adjusted correctly.

"Back in the day," in the late 1960s/early 1970s when AMC was just starting out with front disk brakes, some of their models (don't remember which) shipped with flat steel spaces for the front. They weren't quite an eighth of an inch, IIRC, but they must have been 3/32" or so. I don't think they even used longer studs. Jeep wheels are "hub centric" -- the wheels are supposed to engage that raised section around the center of the hub. That raised lip is probably (at a guess -- it's raining and I'm not going outside to measure) 3/16" high. I would think if a spacer half that thickness would work for you, it should be plenty safe. And a lot of aftermarket wheel rims aren't hub centric anyway. Heck, in my Javelin/AMX days I used to run these on the front for caliper clearance with aftermarket rims. They totally did away with the hub centric feature, and I autocrossed and did time trials at Lime Rock Raceway with them. http://www.jegs.com/p/Mr-Gasket/Mr-Gasket-Wheel-Spacers/748902/10002/-1

Looks like Hornbrod's suggestion in the other thread is a good one. If you really want to stay with the factory center caps, you could run quarter-inch wheel spacers on the front.

That worked. Thanks.

Sign in to yahoo.com if you have an account. Or don't if you don't. That explains it. No, I don't have a Yahoo account -- or Google, or Facebook, or Twitter, or anything else that I don't need.

Signed in ... to what? I clicked his link. It took me directly to a spreadsheet -- there was no sign-in screen.

Or just hotwire the fuel pump and see if it runs.

"File - Make a Copy" is not available.

An '89 used throttle body injection, which isn't all that different from a carburetor (to the engine). To verify that fuel is the problem, just dribble some gasoline into the throttle body and see if it starts. It won't run, of course, but it should fire and start.

If the overheating is only at idle or low speeds, and the temperature drops back to normal once the truck is moving along at 25 MPH or faster, the viscous fan clutch is the likely suspect.