Eagle

I don't see any mention of a new rear soft line. You've done everything else, so I would replace that and see what happens.

Yes, they should fit. You will have to use your flywheel, because the '99 flywheel won't cooperate with the Renix CPS. The '99 will have an external clutch slave cylinder, which is a "Yuuge" improvement over the early, internal slaves.

Same is true of KYBs, in case anyone is tempted to suggest those. They ride very harshly over pavement cracks and small bumps, while providing totally inadequate control over large bumps.

:Sigh: I wish I could afford OMEs, but that's not possible on Social (in)Security.

He's looking for a smooth ride. Ranchos are very harsh. Try Gabriel Ultras, or Monroe OESpectrum or Reflex. Monroe Sensa-Tracks have never been known for a rough ride. In fact, they were designed to provide a smooth ride. I've had them in my '88 XJ for many years and many thousands of miles -- they aren't rough or stiff at all. However, the Sensa-Trac line was discontinued some time ago, so despite the low miles on yours I assume they are older. It's possible they stiffened up with age.

Which line from the front to the rear did you remove, and which one did you keep (replace)?

5/8" U-bolts would certainly do it, but that's probably massive overkill. The stock MJ U-bolts are 14mm (0.5512"). XJ U-bolts are 12mm (0.4724"), which is less than 1/2". I've settled on using good quality, spring shop 1/2" U-bolts for both XJs and MJs. If I were to go heavier, I'd stop at 9/16" (0.5625), which is still slightly larger than 14mm.

I wondered if that's what you were referring to. You could try making your own, but it's tapered so it'll be a lot of work. XJs never had that piece, so if your MJ is going to be just a daily driver and not hauling heavy loads or getting all twisted up off-road, you may not need it.

I don't see any indication that the top of the frame channel has been cut.

I wish there were a current source for that reinforcing plate. I have a set of the shock mount plates out of an '87 or '88, but not the reinforcements. And I wouldn't mind adding them to the XJs, either.

Might be time to organize a group buy. I suspect a lot of our members would be interested.

Where do you get the Beijing Jeep regulators, and how much do they cost?

The size may be standard, but there are so many different rubber compounds, with different resistances to petroleum-based products, that I'm happier going to the source. I have two on order from the stealership. I'm also shopping around for an affordable replacement. No u-pulls in Connecticut, so I have to buy at yard prices, which range from $300 to $75. Not sure where the sweet spot is -- the yard I usually deal with doesn't seem to have any.

Something doesn't add up. ALL the ECUs in the factory parts manual for '87-'90 start with 5300, not 5600. None of them end with 6078. for an '87, the manual tranny ECU should be 5300 5407 and for an automatic it should be 5300 5406

After using half a can of carb cleaner around that boss, I verified that the hole is not drilled all the way through, and it's not tapped. It seems the ATF is weeping out around the speedo gear quill. I'll have to see if the O-ring for that is available as a replacement part. Looking to make it through the winter with the transfer case -- weather is getting bad enough that I can't count on decent weather for a swap, and I don't have a garage to work in. I'm thinking of adding a moly compound to help it limp along. http://afkml.utehm.servertrust.com/category-s/122.htm The prody=ucts for automatic transmissions use a soluble form of molybdenum that doesn't plate the parts. The ones that are MoS2 offer plating. The NP242 uses an internal differential, correct, not a viscous drive -- so I should be okay using the MoS2 formulation even though the lube is ATF?

^^^^ What he said.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/51588-dreaded-flickering-headlight-syndrome/

Actually, he's a top-shelf wrench, and one of only two people other than myself that I allow to work on my vehicles. That's why I was so astonished to see how he was trying to bleed the clutch.

If the fluid level in the [clutch] master cylinder isn't going down, you're not losing fluid. If you're not losing fluid but the clutch isn't working, the fluid almost has to be gradually weeping past the seals on the piston in either the master cylinder or the slave cylinder. Unfortunately, I don't know of any way to effectively test to isolate which is the likely suspect. One other possibility is that air is being allowed in during the bleeding process, and then takes a few days to migrate to where it interferes with clutch operation. (And I'm not sure if this theory makes any sense.) How are you bleeding? The reason I ask -- An old friend (even older than I am, which those who know me may find hard to believe) is a retired AMC/Jeep service manager. He retired when the dealership he had worked for since he was 16 years old was sold. Many of his old customers prefer to bring their AMC cars to him rather than find somewhere else to service them. I went to visit him one day and found him under an AMC Hornet, swearing a blue streak. He was trying to bleed a clutch -- by himself. I was amazed to see a professional doing what he was doing, but there he was ... His procedure was to fill the [clutch] master cylinder, sit in the vehicle and vigorously and rapidly pump the peddle several times, then crawl under and open the bleeder for a few seconds. Then close the bleeder, and repeat the process. I told him I was pretty sure he was just foaming the brake fluid, and I asked him to try it the way my grandfather taught me. I sat in the vehicle, with him underneath. He opened the bleeder. I pushed down on the peddle -- slowly -- until it stopped, and which point I told him to close the bleeder. Then I let the peddle up, pumped it slowly about three times, let it up, and told him to open the bleeder. Repeat process maybe half a dozen times. That did it. If there's any air at all in the system, too much pumping turns a few big bubbles into a gazillion little bubbles. Over time, they reunite into big bubbles, and that's when you get a spongy peddle. At least, that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

What year MJ and what engine?

Found a photo on another site showing a plug in that location. Rockfrog, do you have any idea what the thread is for the switch, so I can track down a plug for that opening?

Yeah, that's the spot. But my transfer case has never been serviced, and I didn't see any wires or connector hanging down there. My friend, the former Jeep shop tech, told me that he remembers some XJs coming in with what appeared to be a transfer case leak. He said the t-case on some models was supposed to have a rubber plug, and the factory sometimes forgot to install it. I'm wondering if that's what happened here. The FSM wiring diagram shows a transfer case mode switch, but it doesn't tell me if the switch is located on/in the transfer case, or on the linkage.

I think I destroyed the transfer case in the 2000 XJ. Recently I've started hitting the highway twice a week to go to construction sites at the far end of the state. Started hearing some unusual noises, but couldn't pin them down. I finally decided that the source might be the transfer case (Selec-Trac, NP 242). I got underneath today, and put in just over a quart of Dexron/Mercon. That's not good -- the capacity is 1.35 liters. The whole back of the transfer case seemed very dirty. While filling it, I noticed something odd -- a boss with what appears to be a tapped home, and nothing in it. See photo: The hole I'm referring to is just below the ID tag, and just to the right of and slightly above the fill plug. Looking at an older 242 t-case on a motor in the yard, there's a sensor in that location. Mine has no sensor. I believe the sensor is a 4WD indicator switch, but my dash indicator lights are working normally. I can't see how a switch like that could have backed out and fallen off the vehicle, so I'm left with the unhappy thought that the factory left something out, and we've been gradually spraying ATF out that hole since the vehicle was new in November of 1999. Unhappily, refilling the t-case didn't make the noises go away, so I think I'm probably looking at a transfer case replacement/rebuild. Grrrrrr The other thing I find interesting (and not in a good way) is that I have the 2000 XJ FSM. The illustrations of the 242 transfer case do NOT show that boss, or any hole in that vicinity other than for the speedometer drive gear....

I would be interested but you're too far away from me to make it even possible, let alone practical. Somebody wants it, though. As the saying goes, "They ain't makin' 'em like that no more."

I thought the Renix fuel gauge sender was 0 to 88 ohms. That's what my '88 factory Electrical Troubleshooting manual says.