Eagle

I recently gave my back-up notebook computer to the retired priest from the church my late wife and I used to attend, because his computer died and he couldn't afford to buy a new one. In order to have a back-up in case something happens to the notebook I take to job sites, I pulled out my old Toshiba and set out to update it (as much as possible for an XP machine). I realized that it has a 60-day trial version of Microsoft Office 2007 Professional on it, which was never installed or activated. The agency we're monitoring projects for has standardized on Office 2010, so I'd like to be able to run this Office 2007 package for better file and operational compatibility. Can't afford to buy a new copy of Office just to thrown on a reserve computer. Does anyone have an unused or retired license for Office 2007 Professional that they could share the product key code for? I need a key code to activate the software. Yes, I know I can run Libre Office, but since the State has standardized on the 2010 version of Office, I'd like to run Office 2007 so I'm looking at the same (or similar) menu ribbon whether I'm on the State's computer or my notebook. I'm running Office 2010 on my primary notebook for this reason.) Thanks. (Please contact me by PM if you have a key code I can use.)

I hope all my Comanche Club brethren and sistren have much to be thankful for. Stay safe.

Definitely subjective. More than twenty years ago, my original '88 Cherokee (which I bought new) was ready for shocks. My brother convinced me that KYB Gas-Adjusts were the best thing since sliced bread, so I bought a set. What a mistake! I should have known not to pay any attention to my brother after the way he set up the suspension in his autocross car, but no ... like a lemming, I followed his advice. Worst shocks I ever had. They were very harsh over pavement cracks, and yet they provided almost no control over large bumps and dips. I took them out within less than six months and tossed them. I replaced them with a set of some Monroe truck shock model that was discontinued years ago, and I never looked back. When I was in architecture school, my roommate wrecked his Datsun 240Z. He had it rebuilt, with a custom suspension. He came for a visit over summer break and let my brother and me try it. We each drove it over the exact same route. My brother swore it oversteered, I said it understeered. Glenn thought it was perfectly neutral. Subjective.

Agreed. If the cat is generating enough heat to melt the padding under your carpet, something is seriously wrong.

No, I prefer round tires. And I like Coopers. However, living mostly on Social (in)Security means that price is a major consideration for any purchase.

I think I recall that the metric tonne MJ used the tallest of the four, but I'm not certain of that.

But what transmission do you have NOW? That's what determines the existing gear ratio. [Edit] Never mind. Just realized the carrier break for the Dana 44 is from 3.73 to 3.92, so you would have the same carrier regardless of whether your axle is 3.08 or 3.55.

5-speed or automatic?

The only way you'll find a rear axle that fits directly, without at least moving the spring perches, is from another Comanche. And the only reason to swap one MJ axle to another (other than to change ratio) is if the replacement is a Dana 44. Good luck finding an MJ Dana 44. I found an MJ specific Dana 44 on craigslist....for $400.... :eek: :eek: Fifteen years ago, in the early days on NAXJA, finding an XJ Dana 44 for $500 was considered a bargain. Times change.

The only way you'll find a rear axle that fits directly, without at least moving the spring perches, is from another Comanche. And the only reason to swap one MJ axle to another (other than to change ratio) is if the replacement is a Dana 44. Good luck finding an MJ Dana 44.

I don't see any mention of a new rear soft line. You've done everything else, so I would replace that and see what happens.

Yes, they should fit. You will have to use your flywheel, because the '99 flywheel won't cooperate with the Renix CPS. The '99 will have an external clutch slave cylinder, which is a "Yuuge" improvement over the early, internal slaves.

Same is true of KYBs, in case anyone is tempted to suggest those. They ride very harshly over pavement cracks and small bumps, while providing totally inadequate control over large bumps.

:Sigh: I wish I could afford OMEs, but that's not possible on Social (in)Security.

He's looking for a smooth ride. Ranchos are very harsh. Try Gabriel Ultras, or Monroe OESpectrum or Reflex. Monroe Sensa-Tracks have never been known for a rough ride. In fact, they were designed to provide a smooth ride. I've had them in my '88 XJ for many years and many thousands of miles -- they aren't rough or stiff at all. However, the Sensa-Trac line was discontinued some time ago, so despite the low miles on yours I assume they are older. It's possible they stiffened up with age.

Which line from the front to the rear did you remove, and which one did you keep (replace)?

5/8" U-bolts would certainly do it, but that's probably massive overkill. The stock MJ U-bolts are 14mm (0.5512"). XJ U-bolts are 12mm (0.4724"), which is less than 1/2". I've settled on using good quality, spring shop 1/2" U-bolts for both XJs and MJs. If I were to go heavier, I'd stop at 9/16" (0.5625), which is still slightly larger than 14mm.

I wondered if that's what you were referring to. You could try making your own, but it's tapered so it'll be a lot of work. XJs never had that piece, so if your MJ is going to be just a daily driver and not hauling heavy loads or getting all twisted up off-road, you may not need it.

I don't see any indication that the top of the frame channel has been cut.

I wish there were a current source for that reinforcing plate. I have a set of the shock mount plates out of an '87 or '88, but not the reinforcements. And I wouldn't mind adding them to the XJs, either.

Might be time to organize a group buy. I suspect a lot of our members would be interested.

Where do you get the Beijing Jeep regulators, and how much do they cost?

The size may be standard, but there are so many different rubber compounds, with different resistances to petroleum-based products, that I'm happier going to the source. I have two on order from the stealership. I'm also shopping around for an affordable replacement. No u-pulls in Connecticut, so I have to buy at yard prices, which range from $300 to $75. Not sure where the sweet spot is -- the yard I usually deal with doesn't seem to have any.

Something doesn't add up. ALL the ECUs in the factory parts manual for '87-'90 start with 5300, not 5600. None of them end with 6078. for an '87, the manual tranny ECU should be 5300 5407 and for an automatic it should be 5300 5406

After using half a can of carb cleaner around that boss, I verified that the hole is not drilled all the way through, and it's not tapped. It seems the ATF is weeping out around the speedo gear quill. I'll have to see if the O-ring for that is available as a replacement part. Looking to make it through the winter with the transfer case -- weather is getting bad enough that I can't count on decent weather for a swap, and I don't have a garage to work in. I'm thinking of adding a moly compound to help it limp along. http://afkml.utehm.servertrust.com/category-s/122.htm The prody=ucts for automatic transmissions use a soluble form of molybdenum that doesn't plate the parts. The ones that are MoS2 offer plating. The NP242 uses an internal differential, correct, not a viscous drive -- so I should be okay using the MoS2 formulation even though the lube is ATF?