Eagle

Actually, 13 psi at hot idle is the minimum factory spec.

Yes, the 4.0L is a cast iron block and a cast iron head. Why not just drop the oil pan, replace the bearings, and keep driving it? Have you checked the compression? Is that 456,000 miles, or kilometers?

ATF+4 is okay for the transfer case. The AW-4 needs Dexron/Mercon.

Not "remix" -- Renix. Which is an abbreviation -- the early XJ/MJ injection and ignition system was a joint product of Renault (which owned AMC at the time) and Bendix. So they took the REN from Renault and the IX from Bendix ==> Renix. The CPS and flywheel are completely different between the two systems.

Okay, Krieger82 has a '92, so he needs a '91 through '96 XJ cluster with the electric speedometer. Lucky camper, you need new sensors because the senders for the idiot lights are simple OFF-ON switches -- they won't run the gauges. THe '84 thru '86 speedometer cable attached to the back of the speedometer with a metal clip and a screw. The '87 through '90 speedometer cable attached to the speedometer with a nylon clip. The cables are not interchangeable (you can't use an '86 cable with an '89 speedo), but you can swap in the other type of speedometer by swapping in the matching speedometer cable.

Rock Auto https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8744632&pt=7052&jsn=891

That's ATF, not Dexron/Mercon. And it's synthetic, and we've already told you NOT to use synthetic. Get the right stuff, drain the pan, and start fresh.

65 foot-pounds with anti-seize is roughly equal to 80 to 85 foot-pounds with clean, dry threads. That's within spec. I also use a torque wrench. In fact, I carry a spare click-release torque wrench in my vehicles in case I need to change a flat on the road.

An XJ cluster from the correct year will be a direct replacement for your idiot light cluster. You will need to replace the temperature sensor and the oil pressure sensor. For a Renix-era MJ ('86 thru '90) you will need a cluster from an '84 thru '90 XJ. '84 thru '86 will need a different speedometer cable and the cluster must come from a vehicle with the same number of cylinders as yours. You can use XJ seats if your seat brackets are in decent condition. XJ seats from the same year range are the same but the brackets are different. It's certainly possible to have a windshield resealed. Whether or not you can find a shop that's willing to do it is another question. Probably no "emergency," but it's time to start thinking about bearings. That can be followed up on when you have full gauges and you can read your oil pressure. Open up the console and look at the condition of the lower boot. Not that I know of. What's your idea of "best"? The Liberty 8.25 is a good choice if you also want disc brakes, but an 8.25 out of any Cherokee would be an improvement, and the late model Cherokees with the larger axle shafts is better. If you have 4WD, don't forget you'll need to change the front axle ratio as well. Is there anything wrong with the injectors you have now? If not, there's no immediate need to change.

The Fey/Westin bumper is not a "Dakota/Comanche" bumper, it's a universal bumper that fits all compact pickups. That's why the bracket kits are sold separate from the bumpers. The one that fits the Comanche is the 63000 series in black, and the 73000 series in chrome. Both are available from Amazon.

Factory spec has changed dramatically over the years. 1988 ==> 75 ft. lbs. 1994 ==> 80 - 110 ft. lbs. 2000 ==> 85 - 115 ft. lbs. I use anti-seize on my wheel lugs, which calls for reducing the torque by 20% to 25%. I've been torquing to 90 ft. lbs. for decades and never had a problem.

Be advised that "ATF" is not the same as Dexron/Mercon. The AW4 needs Dexron. The stuff shown in the opening post is full synthetic. It used to be advised NOT to run synthetic Dexron in the AW4 - I don't know if that has changed in recent years.

Actually, they aren't. Ironically, it was the CJ "roll" bar that spelled the end of the Jeep CJ. Too many adrenaline-fueled young people went out and tried jumping their CJs -- just like they saw in the Jeep commercials on the teevee. The assumed (incorrectly) that the "roll" bar would protect them in the event of a roll-over. It didn't. Of course, they were rolling at speed. It's certainly better than nothing, and in the case of a low-speed roll-over would probably keep your head from being united with your tailbone. But it's not really very effective as anything more than a show bar -- which is what it is and what it should be regarded as. That's the reason the newer Jeep literature specifies that the bars are NOT meant to provide roll-over protection. The newer bars aren't any weaker than the CJ bars, but the lawyers learned from bitter experience.

You can download the electrical manual. The diagrams will clearly NOT show any sort of "neutral safety switch" (which, on a manual, probably means clutch interlock) on an '88. I think Chrysler added a clutch interlock in 1991, but it might not have been until 1993.

Did you look at the chart in this thread -- about four posts up? Stock MJ rear shackles aren't 8-1/2" long. Measurement is eye-to-eye. Overall length doesn't mean anything.

Few dealerships even have the tool or the codes to cut new keys for an '88 XJ or MJ. A good locksmith can do it -- good luck finding a good one.

The most common cause of this is deterioration of the vacuum line(s) to the football (or softball) where they pass beneath the battery tray. It is definitely caused by a vacuum leak. "All" you have to do is find it.

XJ rear springs are totally different from MJ rear springs. Different length, different arch, different capacity.

That's a good price for that bumper. I've never seen anything nearly that nice for the MJ.

Generation gap, Cruiser. Most (if not all) you guys are too young to remember when cars all came with "three on the tree" -- a 3-speed manual transmission, shifter on the steering column, with no overdrive. The engine that became the Jeep 4.0L was introduced by AMC in 1964 as a 232 cubic inch (3.8L) carburetted engine that was, at the time, fairly revolutionary. In 1966 AMC followed with a de-stroked version displacing 199 cubic inches. The factory axle ratio was 3.08. On the standard tires, the final drive ratio worked out to 24 MPH per 1,000 RPM. That's also what my 1968 Javelin V8 had for a final drive ratio. That happened to equate to exactly 2500 RPM at 60 MPH. 3000 RPM was 72 MPH, and both the sixes and the V8s would cruise happily at 3200 RPM all day long. Redline for both engines was 5,000 RPM -- most wouldn't go much over that anyway because of valve float, but heavy duty, dual-coil valve springs took care of that. 3,000 RPM is definitely NOT "spinning her too fast." It's not even working hard yet. That's right where the engine was originally designed to run.

Does the lower radiator hose have a spring in it? If not, the hose may start to collapse at high RPM when hot, which reduces the coolant flow.

The stock 1988 4.0L cooling system is the closed system. The plastic bottle on the firewall is not an overflow catch tank, it's an integral part of the pressurized cooling system. The bottle should not be filled more than halfway when cold -- there's a post inside the bottle, under the cap, to show you the coolant fill level. Coolant expands as it heats up, so the system needs the air space in the bottle to accommodate the expansion. But there shouldn't be any bubbling. That could be an indication of air in the system.

Personally, I'm of the opinion that updates on your condition and progress are highly relevant to this forum. And, with that in mind, I would suggest (as I'm sure you know) that stress and long hours are probably not an ideal combination for you. If a job switch isn't in the cards, you might consider hitting up your employer with a request for an accommodation under the Americans with Disabilities Act. The accommodation requested would be normal hours, for example. The good thing about that is that, once you mention the ADA, they can't really fire you without leaving themselves wide open to a federal lawsuit over discrimination. Employers are required to make reasonable accommodation for conditions under the ADA.

Unless you have converted to an "open" cooling system, you don't have a coolant overflow tank. How full do you fill that tank?

Do one side at a time. The star wheel adjusters are different for the left and right side. If you get them mixed up, the self-adjusters (which don't work all that well anyway) won't work at all. And take your drums to a shop and have the ridge inside machined off.