Eagle

Ugly ...

This is brilliant!

What's a scuttle panel?

Too many to list or to remember. Somewhere on the order of 35 4-wheel vehicles. Does not include motorcycles.

I had a cap from an S-10 Chevy that worked quite well, although it didn't look quite right. Cap height wasn't exactly the same as the cab roof.

A kill switch in the fuel pump circuit doesn't need a relay. It obviously won't hurt to install one, but just based on the gauge of the wire, any decent toggle switch should be able to handle the current directly.

FANTASTIC!!!!!!!

Dirty Comanche is correct. The one toward the rear is the windshield washer reservoir. In the future, it might be better to use the terms "driver's side" and "passenger side." You described these reservoirs as being on the right side, but they are on the left (driver's side) of the vehicle. The battery is on the right side.

I've never seen a 2.5L XJ or MJ with TWO Coolant tanks. Please post a photo. I don't think your system is factory.

By the time you finish doing everything you'll need to do to make them fit and clear, it won't be such a smokin' deal.

A SBC is a tight fit. Good luck with a big block.

There's a link to the factory electrical manual floating around here somewhere. Your post wasn't clear. Do you have 12 volts at the input side of the selector switch?

Backspacing on factory Jeep wheels is 5.25", and on factory rims 31x10.50s fit and stuff inside the stock fender flares -- but rub on the lower control arms at full steering lock. On wheels with 4 inches of backspacing, you won't rub on the lower control arms but you WILL rub on the flares at full steering lock, and the tires won't fit up inside the flares and fenders when the suspension is fully compressed.

I thought the 904 used ATF, not Dexron.

An internal combustion engine needs three things to run: fuel, air, and spark. If you know you have air and spark, the question is fuel. But if you were able to start it and drive it home, you have fuel. I don't think your mechanic is qualified to work on your vehicle.

Small block Chevy is a popular choice. EVERY single one I have seen has had cooling problems. The stroker version of the Jeep I-6 is, IMHO, the best option. It increases the displacement from 4.0 liters to 4/6 or 4.7 liters. Combined with a mild cam upgrade, you won't believe it's still a 6-cylinder engine.

The MJ does not have a front proportioning block. It has a front distribution block. All proportioning is dome by the height sensing valve in the rear.

I need two of each. I would like to upgrade my '87 MJ to SelecTrac, and I'd also like to upgrade the 2000 XJ 5-speed while I'm at it. If you have 'em, please drop me a PM. Thanks.

That truck in the photos appears to have a factory sliding rear window. That's definitely worth grabbing.

The sending unit (for the gas gauge) is different than for the XJ. The correct sending unit for an MJ is basically impossible to find.

The operable triangular vent windows ALWAYS leak when it rains. I repeat: ALWAYS It's a design flaw. When I bought my '88 Cherokee new, I had to pay extra to get those operable vents -- they were an option back then. They leaked from the first time I had it out in the rain. I took it back to the dealer under warranty. They put me in touch with the factory rep. FR: "We have a fix for that." Me: "Great! What's the fix and how long does it take?" FR: "We remove the operable vents and install fixed glass. It takes a couple of hours." Me: "But I paid extra for operable vents. Do you refund me the cost of the option when you remove it?" FR: "Oh, no. But it stops the leak."

Basically, from the MJs grab everything that's grab-able. Try to get the rear flares and support plates -- no, they are NOT the same as Cherokee 2-door rear flares, regardless of what anyone tries to tell you. * Rear bumpers * Tailights * Cab side (B pillar) vent louvers * Seat brackets and pedestals * Parking brake assemblies * ECUs -- even the '87. They don't make 'em anymore. * If they are automatics, get the TCUs and harnesses * Headliners (even if the fabric is bad, get the moldboards if they're solid) * Rear windows. They aren't flat glass, so replacements are unobtanium * Tailgates * Spare tire winches

My grandfather used to tell me that anything worth doing is worth doing right. I still subscribe to that notion. Which means if it were my truck I would move the TCU to where it's supposed to be. The tranny harness is, I believe, mostly a separate harness, so I would look for someone with a junk Cherokee and grab the TCU harness out of that.

Do you have 2WD or 4WD? The 4WD front hubs don't have a spindle, they use a hub assembly with captive bearings. Some years the 2WD used the same hub/bearing assembly, with a dummy stub shaft. The earlier year 2WD MJs used a conventional front spindle with greasable wheel bearings.

What did you get? I've bought CUNIFER brake line from Amazon and had zero problems with it. It's much easier to flare well than steel brake line.