Eagle

Windows 10 32-bit will run on 2 GB of RAM. I had a Windows tablet with that setup that ran very well for the limited use I had for a tablet. That said, the point of trying to put Windows on it now is just to try to regain control of the bootloader. If I can get the machine functioning again, then I can test out other Linux distros running from live USB sticks, rather than installing Linux blind (which was my mistake). The media I'm using are bootable -- they work on other computers. The problam here is that this Linux has hijacked the boot sequence. I know you don't believe me, but that's what happened and I have confirmed that it's a known possibility. I just don't know how to fix it.

No diskette drive

Read post #4 "Before you even ask -- yes, I have checked the BIOS boot sequence, and it is set properly. "

No. You can see the GRUB bootloader going through all the steps of booting up. EVERY SINGLE PROCESS returns an error message. At the end of the boot-up process, all that's on the screen is a small, horizontal line (the cursor) in the upper left corner. It doesn't respond to keyboard input. So I can't access the shell. I have a 2.5" IDE to USB connector on order. Tried that. GRUB still runs, even when there's no hard drive. I also tried resetting the BIOS to the defaults. No joy. I fear this thing is well and truly Borked.

There is no command line, that's the problem. If I interrupt the boot right at the beginning and go into the GRUB recover mode, I get a command line but it only accept certain commands. For example, I tried a sudo string, and it returned "Command sudo not recognized." If I allow the boot to run to completion, I end up with a black screen with a small, horizontal line (cursor) in the upper left corner, and it won't accept any input from the keyboard.

Since it won't see either the DVD or the USB even with the hard drive is disabled in BIOS, obviously the problem is not something stored on the hard drive. Unfortunately, it's an older machine -- an Asus A3000-A3A. 1995. The hard drive is a 2-1/2 inch IDE drive, and I don't have anything else of that type, nor do I have a way of connecting to it as an external drive if I remove it.

Yes, I am trying to get the system functional again, so I can install either a functioning Linux distro, or Windows 10. I wish I could just wipe and reload. As I stated in the opening post, Linux has hijacked the bootloader, so the machine now will not boot from the DVD drive or from a bootable USB stick. Before you even ask -- yes, I have checked the BIOS boot sequence, and it is set properly. In fact, I even tried a boot-up with the hard disk disabled entirely, and it still went directly the the GRUB boot sequence. Thanks to this screwed up Linux, GRUB ignores the BIOS setting and insists on booting directly into Linux -- which doesn't work.

And I mean REALLY know Linux. I have a major-league problem, created by Linux, and I don't have any idea how to fix it. Or even if it can be fixed. It involves an old Asus laptop computer and a failed installation of Debian Mint. Linux has hijacked the bootloader so now the computer ignores the DVD drive and the USB ports when booting -- except that the Linux is corrupted, so it won't boot up. I need to get back to a state where I can access the DVD or USB for booting, so I can put a working operating system on it. HELP!

Did you change the speedometer gear when you switched to larger tires? If not, the odometer is off and you have driven significantly father than what the dial shows. Which means your fuel mileage isn't as bad as you think.

Gabriel, KYB, Bilstein Keep in mind that you don't need a lot of gas pressure. The shocks aren't supposed to carry any weight. You may have rejected perfectly good shocks. The gas is in there under low pressure only to help prevent the hydraulic fluid in the shock from foaming under harsh driving conditions.

How high do they read, and how do you know they read high? Does the oil pressure change when the engine RPMs change?

You are seeing air foam IN the master cylinder, or at the caliper? Actually, I'm not sure it matters. Obviously, a hydraulic brake system is supposed to be a closed system, except when you open the master cylinder to add fluid. If you're getting air into master while bleeding, that suggests to me that the master is defective. How are you bleeding? I have seen a lot of inexperienced (and some experienced) do-it-yourselfers who pump the peddle rapidly and vigorously between bleeds to refill the line after each bleed cycle. That's wrong. Rapid pumping creates air bubbles (foam). When bleeding, peddle movements should be slow, and after each bleed cycle it only needs one or two peddle cycles to replace what was pushed out of the line. Pumping the peddle rapidly a dozen time doesn't help, and can cause issues.

Fuel has nothing to do with whether or not en engine will turn over. "Turn over" means when you engage the starter, the engine rotates. It doesn't mean it starts.

The O2 sensor tells the injectors how much fuel to inject. Don't unplug it.

I sold my '88 4-banger, and I regret having done so every single time I walk out of the house and look at where it was parked.

Me too.

Which outlet on the front distribution block did you plug?

For now. But they are plastic, and over time plastic loses plasticizer and become brittle. I'm not faulting you for including plastic clips with your kit but, given my druthers, I'd druther use metal.

Link (scroll down to the post by gogmorgo):

Actualy, if you go by historical posts it seems like more people are looking for the larger diameter ZJ sway bars than are choosing to delete the sway bar.

You guys do spectacular videos. Thank you so much for posting that. And I really admire the way you have your Comanche finished out. IMHO, that's the way I like to see a Comanche being used.

Not safe without a sway bar. Auto manufacturers don't put anything on if they don't think it's needed. Years ago, one of the original members of NAXJA rolled and totaled his XJ a block from his house because he was running on the street with no sway bar. He was in his own neighborhood, swerved sharply to avoid a dog in the road ... and that was all she wrote.

It will work, but it's a bit small. 800 ml is 8/10 of a quart. You need to start with some coolant in the catch container when cold, and then have enough free volume to contain the expansion from the radiator. I would look for something that holds around 2 quarts. This one appears to be made for the purpose, but they don't list the capacity: https://www.amazon.com/SPEEDWOW-Radiator-Overflow-Expansion-Aluminum/dp/B086D291F6/ref=pd_bxgy_vft_med_img_sccl_1/147-6051651-8154946?pd_rd_w=SYWw0&content-id=amzn1.sym.26a5c67f-1a30-486b-bb90-b523ad38d5a0&pf_rd_p=26a5c67f-1a30-486b-bb90-b523ad38d5a0&pf_rd_r=0W91DJR7YR1S62AGFDY5&pd_rd_wg=eWT2P&pd_rd_r=ea0c73e5-7374-4ff3-812a-49a0739fbd1c&pd_rd_i=B086D291F6&th=1

I would love to know where the video was taken. I've driven every mile of every interstate highway in Connecticut multiple times, but that was so grainy and so short that I couldn't even guess where it might have been shot. The MJs may be similar, but the wheels were different. That suggests that at least one will be a throw-away.

In a world of constant change, it's comforting to find one thing that never changes.