Eagle

Why do some people lift their trucks? Why do some people slam their trucks? He had an idea and he had the skills to pull it off. More power to him.

Around here, "dieseling" is a slang term for predetonation. (Also for engine run-on after the ignition has been shut off -- usually caused by glowing carbon deposits in the compbustion chambers.)

Factory parts manual confirms that seals for both sides are the same. It's also the same seal that is used for the driver's side on the axles with the disconnect.

^^^ Agree

I have two 2000 XJ 4 liters, and neither is prone to predetonation. If Seafoam helped, you may have a lot of carbon buildup in the combustion chambers and on the pistons. You definitely should not have to run premium gas. It sounds drastic but, if another treatment with Seafoam doesn't fix it, I'd consider pulling the head to de-carbonize it.

Run a new wire from the relay to the fuel pump? You don't need the ballast resister. That was added in 1988 for the sole purpose of reducing the noise on the fuel pump inside the cabin of the Cherokee. The first 4.0L vehicles, in 1987, didn't have ballast resistors.

What year vehicle is the axle out of?

What this usually means is that the ballast resistor in the fuel pump circuit has failed. The START circuit bypasses that, so the engine will start. Once the key is released to the RUN position, power to the fuel pump passes through the ballast resistor. If the ballast resistor is bad, the fuel pump stops running so the engine sputters along for a few seconds until the fuel in the rail has been used up, then it dies. To test, you can jump the two contacts on the ballast resistor. You have tried that, so I'm out of suggestions. Sorry.

I'm going to be "that guy," and ask you to please restate the problem more accurately. There are several confusing statements in your opening post. "Turning over" = "cranking" ... both refer to when the starter is turning the engine but the engine is not running. The RUN position of the key is where it sits when the engine is running. The starter is not engaged when the key is in the RUN position. Are you saying the engine will start, but it won't stay running after you release they key to the RUN position?

If the goal is a better ride without a lift, you're really talking about shocks. Unless the original springs are sagged, there's not much point in replacing the springs. If you can get the rear springs off without destroying things (depends on if you live in the rust belt), new bushings in the rear springs will soften the ride without affecting the spring rate. The single most important thing for ride quality is shocks.

Outer axle seals? Dana 30 non-CAD?

Like this?

Windows has outline versions of several of the Swiss 721 variations.

If you have Word, try it using a little bit more character spacing. That setting is found in the advanced settings for formatting the font. I reduced the default character spacing by 2.0 points, and the letters almost touch. I think perhaps -1.5 or -1.0 might be better. I used kerning, but I don't think it made much difference.

I tried Swiss 721 Ex BT again. This is that font, with bold applied by Word, with character spacing reduced by 2.0 points and kerning applied. Getting close?

No. Not even close. Well, maybe a little close, but not right. Swiss 721 is closer, but still not right. I don't think AMC/Jeep invented a font. We just need to research what's out there beyond what Microsoft gives us in Windows.

The closest I could find in the fonts that came with Windows 7 is Swiss 721 Ex BT -- and it's not quite a match. Even after playing with the scale and character spacing it's not quite there. To get it exact, you're going to have to look at fonts available on the Internet.

I had one wheel loosen up several years ago, but I think it's because I had a case of brain fade and only did a final torque on three of the four when I did a tire rotation. Properly torqued lug nuts should not work loose. If you're going to periodically retorque, be sure you use a torque wrench. Many years ago, a guy in my Javelin/AMX sports car club joined our autocross team. He was a vice president for a division of Black & Decker at the time, and he was one of those people who thought because he had a fancy title and a big salary he was better and smarter than everyone else. So he would show up at every autocross (which was almost every weekend during the summer months) and, before each event, he would pull out a BIG 4-way spanner wrench and give all his lug nuts a quarter turn to make certain they were tight. This worked fine until near the end of the season, when he discovered that he had gradually pulled the lug nuts right through the wheels. All four wheels were only good for scrap. Actually, he didn't discover it himself -- a sharp-eyed tech inspector for one of the host clubs spotted it. Thank goodness for sharp-eyed tech inspectors.

The cost of a lift increases exponentially with the height of the lift (which is a fancy way to say that twice as much lift costs four times as much money). You didn't say how much lift you want or why you want to lift it, but as soon as you say "I have a limited budget" all sorts of alarm bells go off in my head. You can half-@$$ a 4-inch or 6-inch lift on a low budget, but it won't make you happy in the long run and may not even be safe. The absolute best advice if you don't have a lot of money is to decide what you want/need to do it right, and then save your pennies until you can afford to do it right. There are three reasons why people lift: Looks Tire clearance Ground clearance #1 is personal and subjective. Personally, I think a stock MJ looks better than a lifted project truck. My red '88 had a 4" lift on it when I bought it. I took it out after a couple of years of wheeling with the lift, and I think it was one of the better decisions I've made in life. A stock MJ can run 31x10.50-15 tires with NO modifications, so unless you're looking to clear 32" or larger tires and/or you're into heavy-duty rock crawling (which would be sacrilege with a pristine Comanche), you really don't need any lift. Practicalities: because the solid axle needs a track bar to locate the axle laterally. lifting the front shifts the axle to one side. Beyond about 2 inches of lift you need an adjustable track bar. $$$ At 4 inches or so, you reach the point where you need adjustable control arms and longer sway bar links. $$$$$ Budget lift? 1-3/4" lift spacers in front, Rancho full-length add-a-leaf in the rear.

If you use(d) Photobucket, by storing your photos on their site you gave them an unlimited license to do anything they want to do with your intellectual property. You still own the copyright, but you gave them permission to use your photos just as if they owned the copyright. I suppose the other photo hosting sites are similar. I haven't seen the proposed new terms of service, but I suppose they would be similar -- although I don't anticipate that Pete is going to claim a right to sell copies of your photos, which Photobucket does (in case you didn't know that). Personally, I think my rights to my photos will be safer if the photos are stored here than they are with the photos on Photobucket. It's a personal decision. I hope our members won't opt out, because the photos are invaluable.

This came out for Chrome first. Don't know if there's a version for Internet Explorer, or the new Edge. But it only fixes the problem for you -- it doesn't make the images visible for any viewers who don't have an add-in for their browser.

1947 Hudson would work. My father had essentially this car when I was a wee lad:

Heavy-duty double stick tape. Between that and the weight of some tools and "stuff" in the box, it won't go anywhere. Another option would be to attach pieces of stiff metal strapping to the sides of the tool box, so the vertical leg extends up inside the turned-down lip of the truck bed. Essentially, you would be clamping the truck bed lip between the tool box and the strap. Hmmm ... I'm thinking of a cross-bed tool box. Upon re-reading, that may not be what you're asking about. Sorry.

I thought it was only in the MJ.

Looks like it can. The direction of power feed for the fuel sender is +12 volts to the gauge, then from the gauge to the sender, and from the sender to ground.