Eagle

Outer axle seals? Dana 30 non-CAD?

Like this?

Windows has outline versions of several of the Swiss 721 variations.

If you have Word, try it using a little bit more character spacing. That setting is found in the advanced settings for formatting the font. I reduced the default character spacing by 2.0 points, and the letters almost touch. I think perhaps -1.5 or -1.0 might be better. I used kerning, but I don't think it made much difference.

I tried Swiss 721 Ex BT again. This is that font, with bold applied by Word, with character spacing reduced by 2.0 points and kerning applied. Getting close?

No. Not even close. Well, maybe a little close, but not right. Swiss 721 is closer, but still not right. I don't think AMC/Jeep invented a font. We just need to research what's out there beyond what Microsoft gives us in Windows.

The closest I could find in the fonts that came with Windows 7 is Swiss 721 Ex BT -- and it's not quite a match. Even after playing with the scale and character spacing it's not quite there. To get it exact, you're going to have to look at fonts available on the Internet.

I had one wheel loosen up several years ago, but I think it's because I had a case of brain fade and only did a final torque on three of the four when I did a tire rotation. Properly torqued lug nuts should not work loose. If you're going to periodically retorque, be sure you use a torque wrench. Many years ago, a guy in my Javelin/AMX sports car club joined our autocross team. He was a vice president for a division of Black & Decker at the time, and he was one of those people who thought because he had a fancy title and a big salary he was better and smarter than everyone else. So he would show up at every autocross (which was almost every weekend during the summer months) and, before each event, he would pull out a BIG 4-way spanner wrench and give all his lug nuts a quarter turn to make certain they were tight. This worked fine until near the end of the season, when he discovered that he had gradually pulled the lug nuts right through the wheels. All four wheels were only good for scrap. Actually, he didn't discover it himself -- a sharp-eyed tech inspector for one of the host clubs spotted it. Thank goodness for sharp-eyed tech inspectors.

The cost of a lift increases exponentially with the height of the lift (which is a fancy way to say that twice as much lift costs four times as much money). You didn't say how much lift you want or why you want to lift it, but as soon as you say "I have a limited budget" all sorts of alarm bells go off in my head. You can half-@$$ a 4-inch or 6-inch lift on a low budget, but it won't make you happy in the long run and may not even be safe. The absolute best advice if you don't have a lot of money is to decide what you want/need to do it right, and then save your pennies until you can afford to do it right. There are three reasons why people lift: Looks Tire clearance Ground clearance #1 is personal and subjective. Personally, I think a stock MJ looks better than a lifted project truck. My red '88 had a 4" lift on it when I bought it. I took it out after a couple of years of wheeling with the lift, and I think it was one of the better decisions I've made in life. A stock MJ can run 31x10.50-15 tires with NO modifications, so unless you're looking to clear 32" or larger tires and/or you're into heavy-duty rock crawling (which would be sacrilege with a pristine Comanche), you really don't need any lift. Practicalities: because the solid axle needs a track bar to locate the axle laterally. lifting the front shifts the axle to one side. Beyond about 2 inches of lift you need an adjustable track bar. $$$ At 4 inches or so, you reach the point where you need adjustable control arms and longer sway bar links. $$$$$ Budget lift? 1-3/4" lift spacers in front, Rancho full-length add-a-leaf in the rear.

If you use(d) Photobucket, by storing your photos on their site you gave them an unlimited license to do anything they want to do with your intellectual property. You still own the copyright, but you gave them permission to use your photos just as if they owned the copyright. I suppose the other photo hosting sites are similar. I haven't seen the proposed new terms of service, but I suppose they would be similar -- although I don't anticipate that Pete is going to claim a right to sell copies of your photos, which Photobucket does (in case you didn't know that). Personally, I think my rights to my photos will be safer if the photos are stored here than they are with the photos on Photobucket. It's a personal decision. I hope our members won't opt out, because the photos are invaluable.

This came out for Chrome first. Don't know if there's a version for Internet Explorer, or the new Edge. But it only fixes the problem for you -- it doesn't make the images visible for any viewers who don't have an add-in for their browser.

1947 Hudson would work. My father had essentially this car when I was a wee lad:

Heavy-duty double stick tape. Between that and the weight of some tools and "stuff" in the box, it won't go anywhere. Another option would be to attach pieces of stiff metal strapping to the sides of the tool box, so the vertical leg extends up inside the turned-down lip of the truck bed. Essentially, you would be clamping the truck bed lip between the tool box and the strap. Hmmm ... I'm thinking of a cross-bed tool box. Upon re-reading, that may not be what you're asking about. Sorry.

I thought it was only in the MJ.

Looks like it can. The direction of power feed for the fuel sender is +12 volts to the gauge, then from the gauge to the sender, and from the sender to ground.

This one should do the job for you. No batteries to wear out. https://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-dial-caliper-66541.html

Measurements? Photos? (3/4 edge view)

PB Blaster, bronze wire brush, lithium spray lube.

You don't have a caliper? They're cheap at Harbor Freight Tools. Just get a dial caliper and learn to read it -- skip the digitals, they eat batteries. Measure the bearing you took out, and the one you got from the store. Does the one you took out look like there's an outer shell that's missing (as in, it got left in the axle)? Show us a 3/4 edge view of both -- oriented the same way.

And be sure they are oriented the same. In the first photo where you showed two bearings side-by-side, it looks like one was facing the camera and one was facing away. They definitely did NOT look the same.

They aren't the same. Do they look the same if you flip one of them over? Why is the new one missing three rollers? (And why is the old one missing one roller?)

FSM doesn't offer much useful information. No exploded diagram.

The C-clip Dana 35s are different from the ones I have, and seem to be the opposite. With mine (non-C-clip) the only thing to be pressed into the axle tube is the tapered race. The roller bearing is pressed onto the axle shaft itself. Apparently the C-clip axles have the outer race and bearing all together, and that's all pressed into the axle tube as an assembly. There doesn't appear to be a separate outer race. The rollers appear (I guess) to roll directly on the axle shaft. So the question is, is the outer diameter of what you removed the same as the outer diameter of the new bearing assembly? If so, it should go right in, and it may just be your technique that's the problem. If the old and new assemblies appear to be the same, then you shouldn't have to remove anything. That inner bit that you started to chip away at -- in your first set of photos, that looked shiny and slightly tapered, which is why I thought it might be a race (along with the fact that I'm accustomed to working on axles that have a race there). Check it out -- is it tapered, or are the walls straight and parallel? Don't do any more chiseling until you know for certain if that has to come out, or if it should stay. Don't go by the video of the Dana 44 -- that uses a separate bearing race, not an assembly.

BTW -- Aren't you going to clean off all that crud from the leaking seal before you put the new bearing into the axle? That backing plate is a mess. I hope you weren't going to leave it like that.

It looks like you have a Dana 35 axle. 5707 appears to be the correct part number, according to AutoZone. And based on the second photo, the old race appears to be still in the axle. That's the cone-shaped, shiny part that the bearing rollers roll against in the axle. That has to be removed before the new race (which should have come as part of the new bearing) gets pressed in. Did the old part that you removed look exactly like the new assembly? On the C-clip axles, it looks like the bearing and race get pressed into the axle as a unit (different from the older, non-C-clip Dana 35). I'm not sure why your photo looks like the race is still in there, but that's what it looks like to me.