Eagle

Have you watched the movie?

It's a locator/support that fits into a hollow in the baffle at the bottom of the tank. Aftermarket replacements don't have it, so I guess they assume it's not needed. However, since without it the entire weight of the pump and sender assembly is supported by the two metal tubes coming through the mounting flange, I would expect to see that seal fail in short order. The factory doesn't list that as a separate part. It's included in what the factory called the "Fuel Pump Package," part number 4637 192 for the 4.0L, or 8350 2752 for the 2.5L TBI. (Oops -- those numbers are Renix era. Just realized you have a '91.) Looks like the same numbers for '91 - '93. That's apparently for a fuel pump repair kit, not the complete pump.

.48 what? Is that an ohm reading or a voltage reading? How long does it run? Could the water have cracked the fuel pump resistor? Try jumpering that.

I like this much better. Optimum for me would be an extended cab (2-door) version, with just a bit of enclosed cargo space behind the front seats. If AMC/Jeep had offered an extended cab version of the Comanche in 1988, I would have bought that in a heartbeat rather than my first Cherokee. Their version of the new "Gladiator" looks like exactly what it is -- a hastily thrown-together pistache (or parody) of the Wrangler. I am completely underwhelmed by it.

I'll never forget when I first heard Alice's Restaurant. 1967. I was in the Army, stationed at Edgewood Arsenal, Maryland. My parents were still alive and living on the family patch in Connecticut. I had gone home for a visit on a weekend pass. The route back to the post was I-95 out of Connecticut, across the George Washington Bridge in New York, down the full length of the New Jersey Turnpike, reconnect with I-95 at the Delaware Memorial Bridge, and follow I-95 to an exit a few miles from Edgewood. The car I had back then only had an AM radio. I was driving back to the post late on a Sunday night. I turned on the radio and started cruising the dial to find a good station. What I picked up was Alice's Restaurant. I caught it right near the start, and it lasted a good portion of the ride down the NJTpke. Curiously, it turned out that the station I had found was WBZ out of Boston. WBZ used to crank up the power at night, and with the atmospheric skip that was possible with AM signals you could hear them in places where it shouldn't have been possible. My grandparents were on the coast of Maine, at the head of Penobscot Bay, and WBZ was one of the only radio stations we could receive there. Keep in mind, this was 1967, when the anti-war activists were spreading the stories that American soldiers in Vietnam were slaughtering entire villages across the length and breadth of Vietnam ... and Arlo was an anti-war activist. So, the song was amusing, but the message wasn't. Not as bad as Hanoi Jane, though ...

Short answer: No. Long answer: The switch connects the two wires to complete the circuit. If you tie the two wires together, the circuit will be closed and the light will be on permanently. The switch won't be doing anything.

Turkey was always the traditional Thanksgiving dinner in my family. Since my wife came here from South America when we married, it was no problem indoctrinating her into the tradition. Cranberry sauce was a staple (the clear kind, not the type with whole berries in it), green beans for the vegetable, and Mom usually made both mashed potatoes and sweet potatoes. (I liked the mashed.) When I was growing up, we didn't know that you'd die if you cooked the stuffing inside the bird, so Mom's home-made stuffing got cooked in the bird, and nobody died. Most of the family liked pumpkin pie. My grandfather and I liked mincemeat pie. Mom used to make two, one for Grandpa and the other for everybody else. I tried to hog as much of the "everybody else" pie as I could.

Won't work -- that one's for a single wire connection.

It's not a pressure sensor. It's a mechanical switch with a plunger that's actuated by the shuttle valve in the distribution block (or "manifold," as you called it). The factory parts manual doesn't list the switch as a separate part -- it comes as part of the "proportioning valve" assembly (so-called, although in the MJ it doesn't do any proportioning). Your best bet is a junkyard, or one of our members who has a few spares.

My brother and I used to crew on a stock car that was powered by a Hudson Hornet engine. The body (such as it was) was taken from an early 30s Essex Terraplane (which was Hudson's stable-mate brand back then).

What, only 25 years? You get to wash schardein's feet. Seriously, thanks for your [many years] of service, and welcome to civilian life. I hope your adjustment is smooth.

I snatch all the OEM relays I can get from XJs in scrap yards. I have a box of them on a shelf in the basement. As for the 120-amp rating -- it's on Amazon, so it's almost certainly Chinese. So their 120-amp is probably really more like 12-amp.

Amazon sent me a link to an automotive lighting relay of a type I've never seen before. Just wondering if anyone knows anything about this type of relay. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N1IEWCU?ref=em_1p_2_ti&ref_=pe_3743270_373016350 I think I like the fact that the power terminals are studs and nuts rather than slip-ons ... but I'm accustomed to working with relays that allow them to be wired for normally open or normally closed. This only works as normally open (which is generally what's needed for auxiliary lights). What do you say, gentlemen?

I would still try fiddling with the shift rods in the BA 10/5 before swapping it out. The shift tower is already out -- there's nothing to lose other than a few minutes to try moving them around.

To elaborate on Hornbrod's answer: The openings in the frame pockets for the LCAs are slotted. The actual locating of the LCAs is accomplished by an insert called a "clevis," which has round holes and which has two studs coming off the back to anchor it in the frame pocket. When you adjust caster, you're not actually adjusting the LCA, you're shimming the clevis, which moves the LCA mounting hole forward or aft. [Part #5 in the diagram below.]

And Napier is spreading the misinformation. From their web site: Once again: The rear wheel openings and flares for the 2-door XJ are the same as for the 4-door XJ. The 2-door XJ rear wheel arches is NOT the same as the MJ. The MJ wheel arches are both longer and higher than the XJ.

The front axle setup is a parallelogram, with four hinge points -- two on the axle, and two on the frame. The upper and lower control arms are the horizontal legs. The two vertical legs, on the frame and on the axle respectively, are fixed. Those dimensions won't change. If you don't change the upper control arm, it won't change (:duh:). So what happens if you replace the lower control arm with a shorter one? The only way it can go in is if you pull the lower hinge point on the axle closer to the frame. This rotates the entire axle assembly around the forward UCA mounting point. If the new LCA is shorter, the direction of axle rotation reduces caster. If the new LCA is longer, it increases caster angle. That's how the factory addresses caster, but they do it from the aft end of the LCA by the use of shims in the LCA mounting pocket.

Caster angle is 7 to 8 degrees, with 7-1/2 preferred. Your new LCS are 1/2-inch shorter than factory, assuming Hornbrod's numbers are correct. If you didn't change the UCAs and you shortened the LCAs by a half inch, that reduced the caster angle. Adequate caster is important in resisting death wobble. Caster is increased by adding shims to the LCA pockets on the frame, but a half inch is a lot. You might need to get another set of lower control arms. I'm surprised that anyone would be selling control arms that don't match the factory dimension pretty well. Where did you get yours? [Edit to add] If you are using stock UCAs and shorter LCAs, there is simply no way your "new" axle can be sitting farther forward than your original axle, unless one of the axles had been modified to not sit in the correct location.

Thirty years! Man, you get a salute with BOTH hands!

AS someone who has occasionally been paid real money to write and to edit, I had the same reaction. My own writing often tends to be overly wordy, but I at least try to observe the niceties of paragraphs, and keeping related thoughts ... err ... related.

As recently as a couple of years ago, I knew of three different, small, independent used car dealers who always had half a dozen or so clean XJs on their lot. No more. I checked the web site of one of them a few weeks ago and he wasn't showing a single XJ. Drove by another one on Friday -- not a single XJ. It happens.

That'll never run. The front tire is flat.

Where are you looking? Steering components for all models of the MJ (Comanche) are the same, and in general the Comanche steering components are also completely interchangeable with the XJ Cherokee (not the Grand Cherokee -- the Cherokee).

Occam's Razor ...

Point taken, John. In my younger days I fought some wildfires in Connecticut, but those were nowhere near the scale of the huge wildfires experienced in the west and southwest.