Eagle

Bo, it looks like you're going to need a couple of chainsaw chains. And you'll be able to heat your house with wood for about ten years.

Don, it looks like you daughter is going to be with you for awhile. https://weather.com/safety/hurricane/news/2018-10-12-tyndall-air-force-base-damage-hurricane-michael

You want fab skills? We got fab skills ... https://jalopnik.com/the-strangest-desert-festival-in-the-world-makes-everyo-1829467474

Where is it leaking? If it's leaking around the cap, get the Volvo cap cruiser54 recommended.

Ouch! Good news that she, her husband, and the dogs are safe. Not good about the house, but hardly surprising. What really [bleep]s me off is the looters. WTF is wrong with people that they steal from other people whose whole lives have been destroyed? I think looters should be shot on sight. To use an expression we knew too well in the Army back in the Vietnam era, looters are lower than whale [poop] at the bottom of the ocean. The next thing your daughter and son-in-law will have to watch out for is the scam contractors. Any time there's a disaster like this, there just aren't enough contractors available locally to deal with the magnitude of the work to be done, so outsiders come in. Some are good, some are okay ... and many are fly-by-nights who are just there to make a quick buck. It can be difficult to know one type from another.

Obviously you've never lived in coastal Maine.

The closed system doesn't have an overflow. What are you calling the "overflow"? How full do you fill the tank on the firewall? It should be filled no more than halfway, when cold. It needs air space for the coolant to expand as it heats up.

What year MJ? Open or closed cooling system? Has the radiator ever been replaced? Lacking the above information, my guess is that you need a radiator. My '88 XJ, at 287,000 miles, is on its third.

The early base (SporTruck) models didn't have the dual mirrors mounted at the vent window corners, and the trucks with tow mirros (such as Tim's truck in the photo Hornbrod posted) also didn't have them. This was also true for XJs with the tow mirror option. So check junkyards. This might be a good project for someone with a 3-D printer. It's a small, fairly simple part. Who here has a 3-D printer and scanner setup, or access to them?

Heh, heh ... I was going to ask you that.

If the later heads are the same, why do they have different part numbers?

Be advised that MJs and XJs with the factory tow mirrors had a reinforcing plate inside the door to beef up the skin. If you're going to install any mirror of this general type, it would probably be a good idea to back up the upper and lower mounting points with some heavy-gauge sheet metal.

I edited my post while you were typing. See above.

Those are intended for larger trucks. To mount those with the mirror head at the right height, you'd be mounting almost to the bottom of the door. They're 27-1/2 inches high -- that's 2 feet 3-1/2 inches. Take a tape measure out to your truck and lay that out on the door. There's a more compact version that would be more suitable for an MJ, if you like that style of mirror. https://www.amazon.com/CIPA-45500-Style-Lowmount-Full-Chrome/dp/B00029WSYK?keywords=truck+mirrors&qid=1539134678&s=Automotive&sr=1-8&ref=sr_1_8 This is closer to what the factory tow mirror option was: https://www.amazon.com/CIPA-41000-Universal-Chrome-Replacment/dp/B00029WSXG?keywords=truck+mirrors&pd_rd_i=B00029WSXG&pd_rd_r=c9602175-79da-4ded-b253-7de7b34a32c4&pd_rd_w=Q0fdy&pd_rd_wg=0sTkO&pf_rd_i=truck%2Bmirrors&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=be4e4b33-ff1d-476e-a827-fb55b7c4763f&pf_rd_r=0F1P3TDZ795RJEDF25DB&pf_rd_s=loom-desktop-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=301&qid=1539134757&s=Automotive&ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvpv2

Curiously, my parts manuals don't include the '84 and '85 XJ, which had a carburetted version of the 2.5L engine. The 86-90 parts manual shows the head part numbers as 8350 2487 for injected, and 8350 2488 for carburetted. The 91-93 parts manual shows me 33000 7115 for the injected head, and 5302 0183 for carburetted. So there was a change in the head from '90 to '91. The head bolts remained the same in the 86-90 parts manual and the 91-93 parts manual.

I'm not sure what you mean by "the 150 CU.IN. AMC Rambler," but if you are referring to the engine used in the Eagle SX-4, I'm pretty sure that was a Pontiac Iron Duke. The 2.5L enngine used in the XJs and MJs was a new design, introduced in the 1984 Cherokee XJ. It has nothing in common with any previous AMC engine. I'm not aware of any changes between 86 and 90 that will affect you. You are aware that in model year 1991 they changed from the throttle body injection to multi-port injection, right? So the 91 intake manifold won't the the same as yours.

My first '88 XJ (with the BA 10/5) is at somewhere north of 287,000 miles on the original tranny. Don't drive it like Don Garlits and that tranny will outlive you and your kids.

Not on a Jeep forum ...

When I need axle U-bolts I get them made up on the spot at a local spring shop. They come with double-thick washers and double length nuts. I can get 9/16" from them, but I've settled on doing 1/2" for both XJs and MJs. A 1/2" U-bolt is slightly larger than the stock 12mm for an XJ, and IMHO a 1/2" that's brand new is probably better than a rusty 14mm that's been torqued and possibly retorqued.

Everything I have read or heard is that the factory clutch is a Luks. The sticky wicket is finding a decent master and slave cylinder to go with the clutch.

Then why can't I remember what I had for breakfast this morning. Wait ... did I have breakfast this morning?

Okay, but I currently own two '88 MJs and one '87 MJ. The u-bolts in all are 14mm, and I'm about 98% certain that the '87 and at least one of the '88s is all original. XJs were 12mm, MJs were 14mm.

Not so odd. Marchal is a French brand, and in the 1980s Jeep was partially owned by Renault. But driving lights are a narrow, pencil beam for seeing far down the road in front of you. Fog lights are a wide beam with a very sharp vertical cutoff. Off-road lights are essentially flood lights, which is why many states don't allow them on the roads unless covered. I doubt there's a market for real off-road lights in Europe, so it's not surprising that Jeep (or Jeep dealers) would turn to American vendors for an accessory that few vehicles were ordered with. I've often thought that the best option for roll-bar mounted off-road lights today might be a set of plow lights. http://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?urlRequestType=Base&catalogId=10002&categoryId=13092&productId=51231&errorViewName=ProductDisplayErrorView&urlLangId=-1&langId=-1&top_category=15554&parent_category_rn=13089&storeId=10001

I have to admit that, yes, I did. I don't know exactly what that says about me ...

The factory lights were KC HiLiTES, but a large, rectangular model that they no longer make.