Eagle

Your technical understanding and description are 100 percent correct. The problem with Ralph Nader and his book Unsafe at Any Speed is that the book didn't come out until well after Chevrolet had switched to a double-jointed rear axle, thereby eliminating the problem. To the best of my knowledge, Ralphie has never acknowledged that Chevy fixed the problem before he made a lifetime career out of bashing the Corvair.

The guy on NAXJA didn't have any issues, either -- until he landed on his roof.

Also, try to route the cable without any kinks or tight curves. Tight curves create points where the cable can bind up, and that results in the needle jumping.

Easier to fix than an oil pump ...

A sway bar (actually, it's an ANTI-sway bar) reduces body roll when cornering. As a general rule, whichever end of the vehicle you add roll resistance to tends to push out on cornering. Thus, if you increase the diameter of the front bar, expect a slight increase in understeer ... which you will experience only if you are at the limits of traction. Adding a rear bar, such as Hornbrod has done, counteracts the front understeer to give you more balanced cornering. Go too stiff on the rear bar and you get oversteer (the rear tends to break loose in cornering before the front). Personally, I prefer a suspension that provides slight oversteer at maximum cornering Gs. I also prefer a vehicle that stays as flat as possible, so I'm all in favor of the 28mm bar, and then perhaps a rear bar as a supplement. For off-road, you need the ability to disconnect the anti-sway bar(s), because they limit suspension travel in off-camber situations.

So substitute "neighbor's child" for "neighbor's dog." Are you going to speed up, or swerve? That sway bar was put on the vehicle for a reason, and when you lift the vehicle it becomes more important, not less. Get some longer links.

The YJ transmission doesn't "clock" at all, and neither does the XJ/MJ transmission. The transfer case in the YJ aligns ("clocks") differently relative to the transmission than the XJ/MJ version. Also, the YJ transfer case shifter is totally different from the XJ/MJ linkage, and that's why the doofus who had my truck hacked the floor. He kept the YJ shifters ... both the transmission shifter and the transfer case shifter.

Unfortunately, yes.

Same console, same console inserts. Is it possible that that transmission and/or transfer case in your vehicle didn't come out of an XJ or MJ? The tranny and transfer case in my '88 4.0L came out of a YJ, which is why the previous owner butchered the floor.

Those things cost money and the factory wouldn't put them on as standard equipment if they didn't think they NEEDED them. Me&my86MJ, you have been lucky. Back in the early days of NAXJA, one of the most active members totalled his XJ. He was driving on the street with no sway bars. He was in his own, residential neighborhood, a block from home, driving (according to him) less than 30 MPH. He had to swerve sharply to avoid hitting a neighbor's dog. The next thing he knew, he was on his roof in a ditch.

Could well be a broken wire. Test procedure: Disconnect the wire from the oil pressure sender. Turn on the ignition (you can start the engine, but you don't have to. But the ignition has to be in the RUN position, not the Accessory position. With the wire disconnected and not touching anything, the needle should be pegged at the high and of the scale. Touch the wire to a good ground (like a clean spot on the engine block. The needle should swing to zero. If the needle doesn't read zero when the wire is grounded, you have an open connection between the sender and the gauge.

What year truck?

This. If you need the flex on trails, use quick disconnects for the links. On the street you NEED a sway bar unless you enjoy driving your truck on its roof.

Another possibility is that the computer thinks the old HDD is a DVD with a disk in the drawer, and it's set to boot from the CD/DVD if a disk is present. Checking the boot configuration in Setup should tell you that.

Welding would probably be better, but covering up an enlarged tranny opening isn't a structural repair. I was going to use either mastic or construction adhesive, and screw the repair panel over the transmission tunnel. The separate piece that encloses the factory opening for whatever transmission you have is attached with screws anyway.

My '88 4.0L MJ had the floor butchered by a previous owner. I went to a junkyard and had them cut out the section of an XJ tranny tunnel that surrounds the shifter, along with the screw-in cover plate. I haven't put it all together yet, but I think just cutting the section out of a junked XJ is the way to go.

You may be using the correct terminology but, if so, the symptoms are confusing. Usually, the dashboard turn indicators lighting up is caused by a fault in the parking light sockets or ground, causing the parking lights to seek a ground by back-feeding through the turn signal circuit. That back-feed current is what's lighting the dash indicators. But the headlights don't share a socket with the turn signals, although they do share a ground, so the issue could still be a bad ground. What happens if you turn on the parking lights -- not the headlights, ONLY the parking lights? Second test -- remove the headlight bulbs from the sockets and then turn on the headlights. Do the dash indicators light up? On the rear lights, is it the taillights that are lit constantly, or is it the brake lights?

Quick test -- if the blower runs when the control is set to the highest speed -- the problem is the resistor pack, not the blower.

Obviously, if the damage is limited to the spider gears, another set of spider gears is going to be the least expensive route. Beyond that, the Dana 35 probably isn't worth rebuilding when you could likely buy a late-model Cherokee Chrysler 8.25" axle and have it installed for less than the cost of rebuilding the dana 35.

Do the turn indicators only come on with the HEADlights, or do they come on with the parking lights?

Tail lamp wire in the radio harness?

"I'm from the government Air Force. I'm here to help [obfuscate, obstruct, and delay]."

Looks more like a combination of wildlife refuges, state, and national parks/forests. Where are all these military bases of which you speak?

Direct bolt-in. No changes. Let me amplify what Pete wrote. It isn't that " the individual parts aren't necessarily compatible year to year." The parts ARE NOT compatible from year to year. You MUST buy hubs, bearings, rotors, and calipers for a '98 Cherokee. Nothing for an '88 MJ will fit or work. If you ever have to replace a steering knuckle, that has to be for a '98 XJ, as well.

I just looked up Tyndall AFB on Google Maps. Good grief! Who the [bleep]in' [bleep] ever thought it was a good idea to construct a permanent Air Force base on a barrier island? Tyndall was originally a gunnery range during WW2, and it made sense (from the non-environmentally oriented perspective of WW2) to use a barrier island as a gunnery range -- all you're bombing and strafing is swamp and pine trees. But to build it up into a long-term, major air base? Idiocy. Now that Mother Nature has started the work, the gummint should just raze the whole base down to the ground, restore the site to some semblance of natural barrier island ecology, and relocate Tyndall (or its functions) either to a new base to be built inland, or to a nearby (relatively) base that's farther inland. To rebuild the base would be monumantally stupid.