pingpong

:agree:

Those prices there seem decent but are not smoking deals. Personally RE has theat New builder joint out that is a hole lot beefier for a few dollarss more

I say just swap in a solid passenger side axle shaft.. put a seal in the VD housing and call it good. I can tell you from experience.. I drove Pong everyday with a front locker... and had no issues with tire wear, or hard steering.

I would personally go sell that axle and find a 8.8 or a D44 out of an xj or MJ and use that instead.. you will come out money ahead in the long run

when this happened to an XJ I had it was the bearing going bad in the alt

I would post up what I would do to solve the problem :D but it is all ready known qhat I am all about :brows:

For me 95% of my winch pulls have been forward :eek: Most of the time when You are in a bad way the only way thropugh is over :brows: Also Most reciever mount winches really hurt your approach or departure angle

There is a lot of work involved in doing this... espescially in doing it right. Plan on spending anywhere from 750up to 2000 just in parts for coilovers and link parts.. you can reduce this by making your own brakets and stuff, but personally the lil bit of money I will save by making my own parts isn't worth the time it would take.... so premade parts is where it will be for me. Keep in mind that you can find some good fab shops in your area who might be willing to do this and the cost might suprise you on how affordable it is to have it done. Personaly I will be ordering my parts from http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/index.html Their prices are competitive, and I like their designs on some of there parts.

You might have a bad coil

I bought it right from Rigid CO about 2 yrs ago. The bull bar part was built by Matt at Independent 4X. THe only down side to the FBW is it really hurts your approach angle. More then likely I will be pulling mine off and building me a shorty bumper here soon. The mounting system on The FBW is awesome and so are the directions that come with it.

Well it seems that I just acquired another set of axles Now I just have to figure out which rig to put them under

If you decide to put it back together I will donate a renix style FI intake and all the parts for that side.... I don't have a wiring harness laying around other wise i would donate that to you as well. DC is right a simple weekend and a front half wiring harness and you will be back in buisness. The hard parts are not even probrably hurt. The injectors that came on the 4.0 are notorious for leaking.. thats why most ppl upgrade to the 19LB 5.0 injectors... besides that they are cheaper.

This is how I fixed the rust on mine anything is fixable with a lil metal work

I mounted mine right the top of the cab in the front where there is double steel using some sheetmetal screwa, and ran the wire in said bouble steel area down to the fuse box

I thought you already had too many? Thats kinda like having to much money or luck... there is no such thing :brows: It would just mean I would have to sell something :eek: or build a bigger garage :hmm: I think I would end up building a bigger garage :D

I would look for the tell tale signs of a head gasket before I jump on that. You know water in your oil.. Unkown cause of lossing water. Things like that... then I would have my cooling system pressure checked, then I would do a compression check on the whole motor, to make sure it wasnt something like that

I say rewire it, and cal it good. If not sell it to me cheap and I will build another rig :brows:

Brett I agree wih you about the bigger MIG machines, but from what I have seen most hobby enthusiasts buy the smaller machines, and learn to make pretty beads that only have marginal penetration.

He wlded tubing to the top of the bumper brackets, then bolted it to that. I am not sure of the strength as of yet.. I plan on hooking it up to my cherry picker, and if it will support its own weight I might keep them the way they are :eek: BTW got the t-case hooked up after 2 tries... I had it clocked wrong last night when I put it in place. I am stil trying to figure out a few things the PO did... I might end up changing a few more items to make it up to par by my standards. Something I leardned today.. Don't mix AN fittings with steel ones... THe PO must have had plenty of money cause it seems that he loved AN fittings instead of hard line.. only problem being he still used hard line in places with the AN fittings.. Talk about a PITA to fix. Tranny lines got plumbed... working on getting the t-case linkage and shifter cable hooked up.. along with finding where the wiring labeled "torque convertor" hooks up on the tranny.

The xj I just bought has a 4.3 with a painless wiring harness. By the looks of how the PO installed it.. it wasnt that hard. Matter of fact the hardest thing I have had to do to get it close to operational again was to install the t-case and rerun the tranny lines.. for some reason the PO decided to use a mix of AN fittings along with steel fittings.... BTW this is a bad idea

My only concern with that kinda setup is you might be relying on grade five bolts to hold that. Grade 8 is the only way to go... just my opinion though

I run my dups right under the truck by using a turn down after it. In the state of VA.. the exhaust has to dump behind the occupants open windows, and can't dump underneath a vehicle if it has a rear passenger area. Basically it means that if it has rear windows it has to exit side or out the back. It also depends on who you get to inspect your ride as well

I think everyone should own a lincoln barn burner. If you can stick weld you can weld anything :brows: They are cheap... mine was 220. Then I made a dryer extension cord... that was kinda pricey at 150 for wire and plugs, but I have 100' cord that won't drop any current, then 50 bucks for a nice Hand cart to transport the welder around :brows: Then you can buy rod holders or make them out of PVC pipe with caps and ends... works great for keeping rods dry. CW my only problem with a MIG welder is.. to me it doesn't get enough penetration as compared to a 6013 rod, even though bumpers, rockrails and things like that are non structual... I want it to be there long after I am gone :brows: Ask Jeff how over built Pongs Old bumper was... there was more weld and added bracing then needed, and it showed in the weight. All of it was 1/4 and the mig just doesnt get 100% penetration on the weld

For some reason here in hte state of VA.. they don't allow Red light cameras.. even at intersections where there have been a couple od deaths caused by ppl running them. Here ius the ironic thing... they have speeder vans they set-up along the interstate to catch speeders, but not to stop ppl killing others at the stop lights. Yesterday I went to the city :eek: (Hampton and Newport News) and I can't tell you how many times I seen ppl run blatant red lights cause they were in a hurry :rant: Then they tailgate you and drive aggressively thinking this is going to cause you to go faster :???: I ussually go slower in that situation.. or turn on my winshield washer and make sure they get a nice bath :teehee: The best is when they swerve in and out of traffic and you pass them cause they were in to big of a hurry to see what traffic was doing ahead of them

I am going with a 4.3 for weight and size considerations... The only reason why I even suggested the Ford was I have ran across a lot of deals as of late for ford drivetrains... I mean ridiculously cheap at that.. Running FI 302 with harness for 100.... then a f100 with drum brake hp Drum d44, 9", with a np205 and np435, that too is also 100. So for 200 hundred I could swap in a complete ford drivetrain, and have some axles. Granted I would have to swap over to disc front... but anyt dodge or chevy outers would work.. or ford for that matter