pingpong

Wow that thing is scarey :eek: but for 200 bucks I don't think the guy is going to complete the deal. He has more in the dash then that :brows: All I have to say is WOW

I have run used gears for yrs with no problems. And just sold my axle to some one else that had used gears in them. No issues. Maybe I got lucky :brows:

Just orderd my tires :D can you say 42x14x16.5 IROKS

that thing is sweet looking

I say go for it, but use new shims, there is nothing wrong with used gears (if they are cheap enough). I agree with having someone with experience help you. There are plenty of how to videos and books on doing gears. Even the expert gear installers had to learn right. Just make sure you have access to the correct tools, and don't use the " this feels lke 250 ft/lbs wrench"

I would look at some of the jeep speed rigs to see what they did. Mostly ppl strengthen the front where the steering mounts, and front suspension mounts, and where the middle of the rig is. I have seen quite a few use 1/8 or 3/16 plate steel with holes cut into it to increas weld area. I used the exo cage approach and truggied it.

I ran them for a yr and a half and loved them. They flex like there is no tommorow. I ran mine with stock uppers and lowers, and had no issues. I did eventually plate the bottoms for strenght but no issues. They are a pita to install, but worth the end result. Personally I would just buy the brackets and piee together everything else. RE's price is a bit high

get some poly ones. I think Ballistic fab has them for under 20

That VW one was just bad @$$. A nine second bug thats cool. I also liked that one where they raced for money. They were some bad @$$ rigs.

The only problem with larger rods is heat control, and the heat affected zone caused by the jewel input. I keep a wide selection of rod on hand, just cause you never know what you are going to weld. I am personally looking at an ESAB that can do all the different processes including TIG, but it is a matter of which is more important.... rebuilding Pong or having fancy tools.

DC I am in the process of acquiring the rest of my parts for my motor swap. I am doing it the easy way.... Ordering the mount kit from AA, and a painless wiring harness. :D I found my 4.3 complete minus starter and a/c for 250. It has all the brackets power steering pump, and other crap. what made it better was it was all ready out :D

I have been running my RE trac bar set-up for almost 3 yrs now, and I am very demanding of my front end when it comes to flex. I PERSONALLY have had no issues with my setup. I too have heard stories about ppl's trac bar mounts coming loose, but I have not experienced this, but I did use proper install techniques ( lock tite, lock washers and proper torque specs for the bolt size). I would really like to see some side by side scientific testing done to see which is stronger or better. There are always situations where other variables can and do cause failures, and ppl blame said part for failing when something else gave first cause another failure. In the end it is your money, buy what you want. Do some research first, and don't buy nothing just on what one person says, or on price

My only concern with the way you are welding it to the pumpmkin is that you use proper technique and rods when welding to that cast. If done wrong it will cause stress cracks when heating or cooling. Research the welding characteristics. I believe you need to pre heat and Post heat to ensure proper expansion and contraction.

Welding is an ability that you have. It can be learned, but there are just natural welders out there. I suggest you research, do more research, take a class, and then decide if you want to spend the money on the equipment. Welding machines lead to other machines. I personaly have a horizontal band saw, Chop saw, drill press, and 2 different cutting torch setups. Did I mention I own to welding machines, and looking to buy a third, cause I didnt buy a big enough one the first 2 times

That works really good for static flex, but lets not forget about forced flex. The way you said to set it up is correct though... I have done this only to be able to compress my bumpstops while force flexing it

I have to agree with DC on the way Jeep designed the front axle. If you look at the design of Kevin's , RE's and just about every other make.... they look the same. The difference is in the ends the use, or don't use. I know a couple of guys running JKS, and Kevins, and I don't see where their stuff performs any better then mine. Just my observation

whats wrong with Truggy's :hmm: I am getting ready to order my 18" Walker Evans coil overs the 2nd week of January. What DC said is right. Plan on doing lots of bracing and other things to make it so you rig willl "work" correctly. With coil overs starting at around 250+ this is not one of those cheap projects ppl jump into.

just check my forsale add.. you can piece together a whole lift

I have run both DT shocks and sky crapper. I really like my skycrapper for there side hilling ability as compared to DT's they are around 30 bucs a piece... just pick a vendor of pirate

I would expect lots of problems, considering the wiring is totally different as well as computer issues. If you do this you will need the complete harness and comp, to see any real benefit

I personally swear by RE HD trac bar and mount. It is super beefy and easy to repair if parts get worn. I have a complete RE HD set-up for sale in the forsale forum, including the trac bar brace.

or is he talking about the 2.6 mitsubishi 4 cylinder :eek:

Sweet looking rig.... LOve the truggy thing :brows: I would definately look into doing something different in the rear, cause eventually you will end up bigger trust me I know :cry: If you were closer I would just about give you a rear 60. Narrow it up, then throw some 35 spline yukon alloys in and call it good

If the gears are what he said they are, and both axles are locked... It would make a good trail beater. I wouldn't give him a grand though... maybe 700

I forgot to mention I trailer my junk everywhere :D