pingpong

I think this has been covered in the past.. I am just not sure if it was here, or jeep forum... which reminds me.. I don't go to that site anymore

2" Chevy drop shackles measure 83/4" eye to eye.. thus giving you 2" of lift. Keep in mind that this will affect your pinion angle, and move your tire closer to the bottom edge of the front of the wheel well. IT will give you awesome flex as well, so make sure you have a long enough rear brake line, as well as ebrake cables

Eaqgle I had a late 89 XJ that had the same calipers, and rotors as my 90 and 91. Just to give you a heads up.

I have been running the RE HD's for a few yrs now... and now problems ever. I have looked at the JKS stuff, and it appears to be about the same. Its all personal preferance.

Thats a great truggy project in the waiting :nanner:

Maybe I need to start buying up all the 8.8's at the UWI and seting them up for sale :nuts:

I can hook you up with a lincoln locked 8.8 all ready setup with spacers and everything, along with a BTF diff cover for the right price :brows: It can also include a used LSD that is not welded up :D

How about doing a captured coil rear with anice 4 link with them :evil:

Sounds like you have several problems.. First being a bad alignment shop. Go find you an old school alignment shop.. that knows what they are doing. Unless your axle is bent.. there is no reason why the shims are not the same from side to side. It also could be that your trac bar is off centered. You didnt tell us how much lift you have and how long your upper or lower control arms are... It is also possible a worn axle bushing could cause this problem

Yeah.. he is making a drag truck out of it using an S-10 fram if I am not mistaken. I guess the same thing can be done with it to make a body lift

OK I have tried several different steering setups, and I wil weigh in on what I know. Rusty's sucks huge donkey parts :eek: Hard to adjust, and easily bent. If you end up wanting his hiem style setup... you can build your own for about a third the price using better quality parts. The stock ZJ parts are jst thatr stock. I would say they are good for up to 32's depending on your wheeling style. Then there is Terra flexes knuckle conversion w the aluminum links. The knucle is great, but requires a lil bit of fab work, and the aluminum links suck even bigger donkey parts. The center link bends like it is made out of stock metal and uses the same weak TRE's as stock. The fab works requires you to remove and weld in longer Sway bar mounts, as well as trac bar mount mods. BTW I have this set up using !ton chevy TRE's with 1.5x.25 DOM :D I have heard that Currie's setup is beef, but again uses stock size TRE's The JCR set-up looks very close to the one I have on Casper (xj on f150 axles) Not including the DOM You can make this setup for around 60 bucks, by the time you figure in your DOM and rod ends you will have around 100 bucks(maybe a touch more) Then there is the GOFERIT.com over the knuckle kit, Last time I looked at this kit, it was under 20 bucks for the bushings. For a cheap setup, this and a Junkyard ZJ steering setup is probrably the best bang for the buck. Remember You get what you pay for, and not paying attention to where your steeing is... wil lead you to go through many set-ups like I have :brows:

I guess you can make a body lift :eek: with a few slight mods :dunce: Like cutiing and welding... and them some creative use of metal tubing :smart: But.. I don't think you would like the way it looks when you are done :brows:

I imagine it is cause of the hatemail some buyers recieve from other disgruntle bidders after they lose. Also if some one wants to drive the price of an item up.. it is very easy given the only thing you need to register on ebay is a email addy

Wow That looks a whole lot like my home made setup on my XJ. I wil take some pics and post them, BUt I used DOM and some off the shelf TRE's and cost me less then 60 bucks to make

Man I can't tell you how many sets of turbine and snowflake rims I have thrown out, or turned in for scrap. Maybe I need to start selling them on this site :eek:

Nice find. I wil help you weld on your perches if you like. Also I still have those short arms in my garage. I might even have a set of 33's or 35's you can get from me :D

When I wheel I have nothing to prove either :brows: I just test my equipment to the fullest BTW I am an East Coast wheeler :nanner:

If you do use the S&W cage... you will only be using the A and B pillar part. Keeping in mind that the B pillar of an XJ is taller then the MJ. AS for an exo being minimal...I agree, but make sure whatever you build can withstand a "catastrophic" Roll/Flop. I have had 2 hard flops, and I need to replace one of my door bars all ready cause it is slightly tweaked :eek: but it did its job

I don't find deals like that.. Or if they come along I don't have the cash :cry:

Price is all based on what the market will bring, and if it is a must have truck, expect to pay more. It sounds like a clean example so it wil bring more then the fair price.

When I was looking for a cage last year, I could not find one that was designed for the MJ. This is not saying one isn't out there by now. I thought about buying a XJ kit and only using what I needed, but then I ended up doing the whole exo/ truggy thing.

Try doing some dynamic balancing on them ( air soft pellets) that will help them from rattaling so bad. Also might want to think about running som eother tire most of the time to keep the wear down.

Yes i plan on linking the rear. I am also going to cut off the rear portion of the cage work, it was designed with that in mind. The whole cage was built out of 1.75x.120 DOM except for the rock rails which are 2x.250, and the windshiled down bars are 1.5x.120. The only thing stopping my project from going forward is trying to find a cheap HP60. Guess I am just going to have to pay the going rate

Only stickers on the bag of your rig increase horsepower and torque.. the ones on the side increase flex :brows:

Here is how I shortened my LWB MJ down