pingpong

If the bolt isnt a tight fit in it, you will hear popping and banging. Last time I went to replace my bushings I order the ones for the axle, and they must have sent the wrong ones cause the bolt had a lot of slop in the sleeve, I ended up drilling the hole bigger on the control arm to fix the problem :brows:

I guess you can use a skid plate from an XJ, but I have yet to see an engine skid for the MJ. The front steering skid... look in the Junk yards, same with gas tank, and t-case

I think the petition is a great idea, but this is a legal issue with the land owners and the Operators of PAP. The petition in no way will affect the outcome of the court battle. If the operators of PAP did an IPO I think they could raise the money to buy the land and then there would be no issue

Pre 77 ford d44's had weld on brakcets, thust they could be cut off and recsold onebay. the 78-79 ones have some issues. the cast "C" are suppose to be the weak link... I don't think so, but what do I know. Also the 78-79 F250 axles are different in a couple ways. First 8 lug, second uses dual piston calipers, third the inner shafts are not the same as the inners on the f150 ford. Not sure hwta the difference is, but a guy in the club had to order his alloys special cause the regular d44 inners would not work

Doing a 4.3 swap, or a 350 swap difficulty depends on what kind of setup you are going to run. A propane setup, you only need like 4 circuits.... fuel injenction you need lots more.

I personally prefer using the weld nuts.... hold a lil better and you can alway upgrade the size of the bolt that way.. I prefer using 1/2 for all stuff like that.... less cahance of breaking, you saw what my l;ast x-memeber and t-case skid looked like :eek: CW if memory serves me correctly that measure ment is like 34" give or take a 1/2..... I would still double check though

Rusty's site is wrong about that though. The bushing on the axle takes an 8MM bolt, and the same for the UCA on the rig, they try and sell you the lower frame LCAA mount which uses a 5/8 bolt

Q-tec or 4wd hardware are like low 30's I think I got a set last time for 120 with shipping

My question is how would they work in a pair.... meaning uppers and lowers in arc travel? I think it would work, my question is how long would it last, and how would it flex?

I would do it the real easy way... Unbolt the wiring harness from fire wall. Follow wires to components, if it is for lights, and unneeded crap cut and tag, leave engine intact, with all wires in place. Cut all hoses and lines, and drain on the ground, or in a suitable bucket, preferabl;y not where you are working. Cut down both sides of the grille with sawzall. Then cut down both sides of the front, on each side of the radiator (best done with a torch) Support engine with cherry picker, and remove motor mounts...(I just cut them using a torch) Take a ratchet strap and secure rear portion of trans to the picker... Cut trans x-member, (unbolt if u like) and pull the motor out the front. Removing axles are easy just make sure your torch bottles are full During disassembly I had sold most of the sheetmetal and interior to locals who wanted it for their rigs This is what you can end up with if done correctly Here is how I cut my front Just some food for thoughts. That was a 300 dollar xj with no title.. I think by the time I was done parting it out... i had made 1000

I didnt mean to jack the thread, I was just going by what I have found that works. The only thing those spacers do, is let your blowby get on your windshield :eek: and the hood vents.... might lower temps, but also exposes your components to water :hmm: At most the vents lower temps 10* a couple of replaced sensors or components due to water damage might make you think twice about them ;)

Normally when stuff has been replaced like that, it means it was broken :eek: So new parts aren't always a good thing when buying a used rig. New rad and water pump sometimes means " rig was running hot, so I threw money at it"

You mean some rims like these To me they bent real easily, but they bent back just as easily :D

Welcome...

If you are junking the xj after pulling parts, my favorite way of pulling engine/tranny/t-case as one is to remove front header panel/ radiator ( i use the most destructive means available usually sawzall :D) and pull the combo through the front. Axles are only a matter of using said sawzall again to LCA/UCA's. the rear is a matter of the smoke wrench to the u-bolts. I can ussually have everything off a XJ in 3 hrs, but I have done 1 or 2 :brows:

I keep hearin lots of you all telling me that you all have cooling problems on your rigs. I would seriously look at wether or not my mech fan was working right, as well as my electric fan. I had no issues on Pong (except when rad fins got filled up with mud) with my rig ever running "hot" on the trail. It was very rare that I even turned my rig off. The only thing I did was rigged my fan to run off a switch.

looks real similar to the mounting system that Rigid Co uses

The main reason why I did my exo was an interior cage would take up more room in a tight interior all ready. Now a YR later, and I will be adding an iterior cage of sorts, but mostly to protect me more. Also at the time I did mine.... S&W wasn't selling an interior cage, and to have a custom cage built was just as much. BTW I havent really bent anything on my rig, and I have done to flops, a couple near endo's and some other body damage inducing things

There is much debate about this. I personally prefer auto's. especially with the kind of wheeling I do. just wheeling in rocks, the auto makes it nice to 2 foot drive, where as ppl with sticks have to slip the clutch and hope they don't stall. Also auto's make up for the crawl ratio, by mutiplying torque. You can get away with less crawl ratio for this matter. Also there are less wear items in an auto, I mean no clutch , slave cylinder or other things to fail. My current build up is going to be using a T350, buit my 85 XJ with the 4.3 has a 700r4, and that means overdrive :D which means better gas mileage. It all comes down to preference. I thought about building a YJ with a np435, and np203/205 doubler, with a 108 wheelbase, just to have something different :hmm: I just havent found that almost free YJ to do it with yet.

I get mine fromthe dealer.. they are just as cheap, just OEM

I have very mixed feelings about big bumpers..... I loved mine unitl I started wheeling hard. Then I found it hurt my approach angle too bad, and it will be leaving my rig. As for tube bumpers.... I think they look poserish. I am not sure what kind of set-up I am going to use on Pong this time, but the winch is more then likely going to be going where they went from thew factory, especially since I am goint to a v-6 motor, I will have plenty of room to mount my winch there, especially if I go with one with remote solenoids :brows: If I had to do it all over again, I would use a moutning system like Rigid Co.'s and make a tight fitting narrow winch bumper, one that complemented front approach angles.

Well as far as exo's being ghey.... lets see your rig ;) wheeling with no cage is shall we say :dunce: And as far as MIG being a better weld... I think you need to do some research on this :smart: .120 wall tubing is 1/8, I can penetrate that and make a good sound weld using Oxy acytelene, granted i wouldn't want it to be a structual joint, but it would hold. IN welding class it wasn't uncommomon for us to weld 3/4 to 1" plate using SMAW, granted it took many passes, and was very time consuming compared to the GMAW, or FCAW process. When I had my work done, I didnt worry about it being street legal when done, cause I knew if I built it to be street legal, wheeling where I go and with the group go with would not be possible.

Lunch box lockers just replace you speider gears, and do not require setting gears up. A full locker replaces the carrier and all and has to be setup like new gears, also they are 2to 3 times as expensive.

Much easier and It is a proven Idea. There are problem with the radias arm style suspension like, it needs limiting straps ( not brake lines or shocks), and they can have some strange handling quirks, especially in a situation where they are in a bind. Use quality parts, and you shouls have no issues.

I am sure theowners of that land have consulted a lawyer, and I am sure this is all going to play out in court. Where PAP is located is in prime industrial area, and with that... industry. They are also close to the interstate, which means that land is worth a fortune to the right company especially with the local economy trying to bring in revenue.